'Outdoor workshop' and temporary corrosion prevention.

I'm nowhere close to finding covered space to put my project together, and as I'm about to start blasting and painting some parts, others are going to need protection from damp.

Things like gearbox shafts, brake discs etc. which won't be painted but I'd prefer to blast before reassembly and that I can cover but not stop condensation forming on. Grease might be OK, but not that clever on brakes because of the pads.

Any ideas for sensibly-priced treatments that aren't too ghastly to remove come the big day when I want to drive it? I have spray equipment, if that's the best way to apply it.

I find regular blasts with WD40 the easy and cheap way to stop light rust forming....
Easily removed completely with meths before painting....
Anything more longterm is probably going to be a lot more difficult to remove

Hi Chris - it's having to remember the regular blasts bit that I want to avoid. You should see the shafts of a SIII box that I rebuilt and stored when I moved house a couple of years ago. WD40'd but you wouldn't know it!

what is that black oily substance that comes on new steel?

Boguing I can only see Grease as your viable alternative....
Anything else is going to be a solvent based coating thats going to be unsuitable for your requirements....
Maybe if you remove the pads not difficult then used grease?
I know in the years ive been restoring cars ive never come across anything thats an alternative with such ease of removal and the grease does deter the moisture!
However You might try waxoyl

I think that you're probably right Chris. Bit depressing knowing that I'm going to be warning everyone to watch for grease while not minding it myself.

It's just occurred to me that I won't be able to have working brakes at least until the bulkhead is on, because I haven't decided which pedals or master cylinder to use. Should have better weather by that time, so not so much to worry about.

Here's chapter and verse: But yes, grease is cheap quick and easy.
http://www.npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/temporary_corrosion_protectives.pdf

Castor, funny that you should bring that up - it's one of the first hits I got when I looked earlier today. I did read it, but it doesn't make any specific product recommendations and I was hoping that someone on here might be using some magical non-gooey stuff that slides off and packs itself away when you look at it the right way.

I used new engine oil on my new discs when I put them on late last year. It's vanished and they've rusted up. It's not thick rust and still looks like it will rub down ok with wire wool. Would rather be cleaning grease off though

my brakes went rusty during my build(which i did out in the garden) - and the subsequent 5 years standing about

i took it up the road and applied the brakes

i took it down the road and i applied the brakes- the rust was gone.

i took it for an MOT and it passed

It's a pride thing. Everything else will be painted or polished within an inch of it's life, so I don't want to spoil the ship.

Good news is that I've finally found the engine that I wanted, or more accurately, sot of wanted. Got a Jag V12, recent decent mileage 5.3, really wanted a 6, but they are now looney prices.

Ive downloaded quite a few of the US Field Manuals, bedtime reading!
This one: http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-38-470.pdf
If you really want to do it "Army style"!
Covers preservation etc.
Other FM and TMs are available.
Ive used heavy grease coating and wrapping in this stuff http://metprogroup.com/products/products/vapour-corrosion-inhibitors.
Mark