Our 90's ill...

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
G

Geo

Guest
Ok, this is an academic question, as I don't know much about cars, let alone
enough to fix something, but I'd just like to know what's wrong before I
take the Landy to the garage.

So.... I came back home (Greece) and I'm driving my family's 1988 V8 90. The
Landy's only done 95000Kms, so around 60000 miles, never been used hard, but
it's never been maintained very well either; my father usually takes it to
the garage when something's wrong enough to prevent it from driving and that
doesn't happen often. I don't have a clue when the air filter/spark
plugs/anything else have been changed/looked at for the last time.

Now to the symptoms:

The engine seems to be burning fuel inefficiently, the exhaust fumes
sometimes smell like half the fuel hasn't really burnt in the chambers.
There's some water-soot mix spat from the exhaust (note that outdoors temps
here are still around 15 C, so not very cold) while the engine's warming up
and there's black smoke (soot?) coming out if you step on the gas and go
from idle to higher revs, like it's been deposited there while on idle and
it cleans up after you rev it. It tends to smoke a bit in general lately,
but that's the most visible thing to me. Idle seems to be a bit
temperamental, sometimes then engine can't stay there and eventually
swithces off (even though it's warm).

Now to the "oddest" bit: When the tank tends to empty and the indicator
enters the red area, the Landy will start, warm up and then "blurb" and die
(while in motion, preferably some place where I am hindering traffic and
can't pull over....). Normally, when the petrol indicator enters the red it
means I have another 100 miles or more to go and I know there's still some
petrol in the tank (splashing sound). It's done it four times now, I step on
the gas and it just "blurbs" like it's out of petrol and then won't start
again for a couple of minutes. After that couple of minutes it'll start with
some difficulty, spit clouds of black smoke while I rev it like mad and work
for a while. I never used it more than a minute to find out if it keeps
working fine, but I doubt it. I used some "tank cleaning additive" last time
I filled up but it didn't do anything that I could notice. Whenever I fill
up the problem seems to stop, the car will start without problems and go
until the tank goes almost empty again.

So the question is, is there something in my tank (rust, 17 years of
accumulated crud) that causes everything, does the engine need looking at,
or is it both (that's what I'm guessing)?

The engine doesn't overheat and as far as I can tell it sounds ok, but I'm
not sure I could tell if the sound has changed a bit (plus you can only hear
the transmission whining in the cabin...).

If anyone actually bothered to read the entirety of this post, sorry about
the length and I'd really appreciate any ideas.

Geo



 

"Geo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, this is an academic question, as I don't know much about cars, let
> alone
> enough to fix something, but I'd just like to know what's wrong before I
> take the Landy to the garage.
>
> So.... I came back home (Greece) and I'm driving my family's 1988 V8 90.
> The
> Landy's only done 95000Kms, so around 60000 miles, never been used hard,
> but
> it's never been maintained very well either; my father usually takes it to
> the garage when something's wrong enough to prevent it from driving and
> that
> doesn't happen often. I don't have a clue when the air filter/spark
> plugs/anything else have been changed/looked at for the last time.
>
> Now to the symptoms:
>
> The engine seems to be burning fuel inefficiently, the exhaust fumes
> sometimes smell like half the fuel hasn't really burnt in the chambers.
> There's some water-soot mix spat from the exhaust (note that outdoors
> temps
> here are still around 15 C, so not very cold) while the engine's warming
> up
> and there's black smoke (soot?) coming out if you step on the gas and go
> from idle to higher revs, like it's been deposited there while on idle and
> it cleans up after you rev it. It tends to smoke a bit in general lately,
> but that's the most visible thing to me. Idle seems to be a bit
> temperamental, sometimes then engine can't stay there and eventually
> swithces off (even though it's warm).
>
> Now to the "oddest" bit: When the tank tends to empty and the indicator
> enters the red area, the Landy will start, warm up and then "blurb" and
> die
> (while in motion, preferably some place where I am hindering traffic and
> can't pull over....). Normally, when the petrol indicator enters the red
> it
> means I have another 100 miles or more to go and I know there's still some
> petrol in the tank (splashing sound). It's done it four times now, I step
> on
> the gas and it just "blurbs" like it's out of petrol and then won't start
> again for a couple of minutes. After that couple of minutes it'll start
> with
> some difficulty, spit clouds of black smoke while I rev it like mad and
> work
> for a while. I never used it more than a minute to find out if it keeps
> working fine, but I doubt it. I used some "tank cleaning additive" last
> time
> I filled up but it didn't do anything that I could notice. Whenever I fill
> up the problem seems to stop, the car will start without problems and go
> until the tank goes almost empty again.
>
> So the question is, is there something in my tank (rust, 17 years of
> accumulated crud) that causes everything, does the engine need looking at,
> or is it both (that's what I'm guessing)?
>
> The engine doesn't overheat and as far as I can tell it sounds ok, but I'm
> not sure I could tell if the sound has changed a bit (plus you can only
> hear
> the transmission whining in the cabin...).
>
> If anyone actually bothered to read the entirety of this post, sorry about
> the length and I'd really appreciate any ideas.
>
> Geo
>
>


sludge or water in the tank?



 

"Geo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, this is an academic question, as I don't know much about cars, let

alone
> enough to fix something, but I'd just like to know what's wrong before I
> take the Landy to the garage.
>
> So.... I came back home (Greece) and I'm driving my family's 1988 V8 90.

The
> Landy's only done 95000Kms, so around 60000 miles, never been used hard,

but
> it's never been maintained very well either; my father usually takes it to
> the garage when something's wrong enough to prevent it from driving and

that
> doesn't happen often. I don't have a clue when the air filter/spark
> plugs/anything else have been changed/looked at for the last time.
>
> Now to the symptoms:
>
> The engine seems to be burning fuel inefficiently, the exhaust fumes
> sometimes smell like half the fuel hasn't really burnt in the chambers.
> There's some water-soot mix spat from the exhaust (note that outdoors

temps
> here are still around 15 C, so not very cold) while the engine's warming

up
> and there's black smoke (soot?) coming out if you step on the gas and go
> from idle to higher revs, like it's been deposited there while on idle and
> it cleans up after you rev it. It tends to smoke a bit in general lately,
> but that's the most visible thing to me. Idle seems to be a bit
> temperamental, sometimes then engine can't stay there and eventually
> swithces off (even though it's warm).
>
> Now to the "oddest" bit: When the tank tends to empty and the indicator
> enters the red area, the Landy will start, warm up and then "blurb" and

die
> (while in motion, preferably some place where I am hindering traffic and
> can't pull over....). Normally, when the petrol indicator enters the red

it
> means I have another 100 miles or more to go and I know there's still some
> petrol in the tank (splashing sound). It's done it four times now, I step

on
> the gas and it just "blurbs" like it's out of petrol and then won't start
> again for a couple of minutes. After that couple of minutes it'll start

with
> some difficulty, spit clouds of black smoke while I rev it like mad and

work
> for a while. I never used it more than a minute to find out if it keeps
> working fine, but I doubt it. I used some "tank cleaning additive" last

time
> I filled up but it didn't do anything that I could notice. Whenever I fill
> up the problem seems to stop, the car will start without problems and go
> until the tank goes almost empty again.
>
> So the question is, is there something in my tank (rust, 17 years of
> accumulated crud) that causes everything, does the engine need looking at,
> or is it both (that's what I'm guessing)?
>
> The engine doesn't overheat and as far as I can tell it sounds ok, but I'm
> not sure I could tell if the sound has changed a bit (plus you can only

hear
> the transmission whining in the cabin...).
>
> If anyone actually bothered to read the entirety of this post, sorry about
> the length and I'd really appreciate any ideas.
>
> Geo
>

sounds familiar once you have replaced the air filter (always a good idea
if its been on for yonks) clean and check the temperature sensor plug they
are a poorly made item and will happily make the engine run rich if a bad
fit it will give a false reading and convince the ecu the engine is running
cold new ones are cheap but a sod to fit (someone remind me ISTR they are
blue coloured)
Derek


 

"Derek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> sounds familiar once you have replaced the air filter (always a good idea
> if its been on for yonks) clean and check the temperature sensor plug

they
> are a poorly made item and will happily make the engine run rich if a bad
> fit it will give a false reading and convince the ecu the engine is

running
> cold new ones are cheap but a sod to fit (someone remind me ISTR they are
> blue coloured)
> Derek



This might be a thick question, but does an old 90 have an actual ECU? I
thought that the only complicated piece of electronics in there was the
cassette player (and the damn thing doesn't work any more). The gauge shows
a normal temp anyway, although I don't know if it uses the same sensor
reading or not.

The engine probably does run rich but I thought it might have been the carbs
(among any other problems).


Geo


 
On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 17:55:32 +0100, "Geo"
<[email protected]> scribbled the following nonsense:

>Ok, this is an academic question, as I don't know much about cars, let alone
>enough to fix something, but I'd just like to know what's wrong before I
>take the Landy to the garage.
>
>So.... I came back home (Greece) and I'm driving my family's 1988 V8 90. The
>Landy's only done 95000Kms, so around 60000 miles, never been used hard, but
>it's never been maintained very well either; my father usually takes it to
>the garage when something's wrong enough to prevent it from driving and that
>doesn't happen often. I don't have a clue when the air filter/spark
>plugs/anything else have been changed/looked at for the last time.
>
>Now to the symptoms:
>
>The engine seems to be burning fuel inefficiently, the exhaust fumes
>sometimes smell like half the fuel hasn't really burnt in the chambers.
>There's some water-soot mix spat from the exhaust (note that outdoors temps
>here are still around 15 C, so not very cold) while the engine's warming up
>and there's black smoke (soot?) coming out if you step on the gas and go
>from idle to higher revs, like it's been deposited there while on idle and
>it cleans up after you rev it. It tends to smoke a bit in general lately,
>but that's the most visible thing to me. Idle seems to be a bit
>temperamental, sometimes then engine can't stay there and eventually
>swithces off (even though it's warm).
>
>Now to the "oddest" bit: When the tank tends to empty and the indicator
>enters the red area, the Landy will start, warm up and then "blurb" and die
>(while in motion, preferably some place where I am hindering traffic and
>can't pull over....). Normally, when the petrol indicator enters the red it
>means I have another 100 miles or more to go and I know there's still some
>petrol in the tank (splashing sound). It's done it four times now, I step on
>the gas and it just "blurbs" like it's out of petrol and then won't start
>again for a couple of minutes. After that couple of minutes it'll start with
>some difficulty, spit clouds of black smoke while I rev it like mad and work
>for a while. I never used it more than a minute to find out if it keeps
>working fine, but I doubt it. I used some "tank cleaning additive" last time
>I filled up but it didn't do anything that I could notice. Whenever I fill
>up the problem seems to stop, the car will start without problems and go
>until the tank goes almost empty again.
>
>So the question is, is there something in my tank (rust, 17 years of
>accumulated crud) that causes everything, does the engine need looking at,
>or is it both (that's what I'm guessing)?
>
>The engine doesn't overheat and as far as I can tell it sounds ok, but I'm
>not sure I could tell if the sound has changed a bit (plus you can only hear
>the transmission whining in the cabin...).
>
>If anyone actually bothered to read the entirety of this post, sorry about
>the length and I'd really appreciate any ideas.
>
>Geo
>
>


Start with a thorough service, i.e. plugs, ht leads, points (iff
applicable), condenser, filters (air, oil, fuel), oils etc.

If you are concerned about sludge, ensure the tank is close to empty
and then drain it, this will show if there is any sludge or gunk.
Before doing this though, ensure you have sufficient fuel in jerry
cans to refill the tank with fuel to get to a garage to refuel
properly.

Once the service is complete, I would then see if the problem still
exists.

If it does, and assuming we are tallking about a carb motor,
disconnect the throttle linkage between the carbs, and open each one
individually, this will show if a carb is at fault.

I had a very similar problem with my 101 recently, and it turned out
to be a carb that had a poorly adjusted float.
--

Simon Isaacs

Peterborough 4x4 Club Newsletter Editor and Webmaster
Green Lane Association (GLASS) Financial Director
101 Ambi, undergoing camper conversion www.simoni.co.uk
1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an offer!
Suzuki SJ410 (Wife's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT
Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next
1993 200 TDi Discovery
1994 200 TDi Discovery body sheel, being bobbed and modded.....
1979 Range Ruster body shell and chassis
 

"Geo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Derek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > sounds familiar once you have replaced the air filter (always a good

idea
> > if its been on for yonks) clean and check the temperature sensor plug

> they
> > are a poorly made item and will happily make the engine run rich if a

bad
> > fit it will give a false reading and convince the ecu the engine is

> running
> > cold new ones are cheap but a sod to fit (someone remind me ISTR they

are
> > blue coloured)
> > Derek

>
>
> This might be a thick question, but does an old 90 have an actual ECU? I
> thought that the only complicated piece of electronics in there was the
> cassette player (and the damn thing doesn't work any more). The gauge

shows
> a normal temp anyway, although I don't know if it uses the same sensor
> reading or not.
>
> The engine probably does run rich but I thought it might have been the

carbs
> (among any other problems).
>
>
> Geo
>

Good point I thought you were injected ( so you would have to have an ECU )
now I have to look into the Ebook of words and I see many things jeez mystic
meg would go crosseyed looking at this . Zenith carbs or SU 's arggh you
aren't near Altrincham are you ? SU's are prone to problems with the float
chamber varying from clag blocking the jets to the float sinking or the
adjuster plate getting out of shape ( odd I did an MGB with HIF SU's and
there was no adjuster plate) either of which gives a nice rich
mixture -Zeniths the diaphragm splits both can have the choke sticking you
need to work out which carb is giving the problems so first check the plugs
one side (bank) should be sooty if its carb related
btw if anyone needs to borrow the adjuster tool(s) for a zenith I think I
still have all 3 types
Derek


 
Back
Top