OT - 12v Fridges

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M

Mark Solesbury

Guest
Hello all,

OT, but i thought that someone in here MUST know!

I am going camping for the weeked, and want to put a 12v fridge in my car.

If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its not
on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and let the
thermostat in the fridge do its work.,



Mark.


 
Mark Solesbury came up with the following;:
> Hello all,
>
> OT, but i thought that someone in here MUST know!
>
> I am going camping for the weeked, and want to put a 12v fridge in my car.
>
> If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its
> not on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and
> let the thermostat in the fridge do its work.,

I'd give it a permanent feed ... and I'd have a second leisure battery to
feed it from, wired in via a split charge relay so that when I drove
anywhere it would get a charge boost, though it ought to last a weekend.
Our 12v in the caravan, at only 90 Ah, lasts almost a full week running
fridge, lights, and water pump without recharging.

--
Paul ...
(8(|) Homer Rules ..... Doh !!!
ebay stuff 5220527879 7987515557

 
Depends if you want a proper job or just enough for 1 weekends
camping!

I personally would use a permenant fused live feed and, as you say,
let the fridge thermostat do its work.

However, its what you connect it to that should concern you most.

I have a small coolbox type fridge (which is admittedly cheap and
crappy but does the job on a cool-warm day). When running on a warm
day it WILL drain the battery quite happily if it is working all day
which couldl leave you stranded.

If its just for a one off I would suggest you dont leave it running
for any more than 4-6hrs (to be safe and sure your car will start
again).

If its for a more permenant solution, as someone else said a second
battery and split charge is a must. Having said that, rather than
shell out the £££'s for 2nd battery and split charge I swapped my bog
standard battery for an Oddyssey PC1700. That will run the fridge all
day and night and still start my 200tdi in the morning - perfect for
what I need at the moment.

Others may suggest that a heavy relay for a couple of ££ is enough for
a split charge system...I'm not too sure about that and hence did not
go down that route.

Jon


On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:44:06 +0000 (UTC), "Mark Solesbury"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>OT, but i thought that someone in here MUST know!
>
>I am going camping for the weeked, and want to put a 12v fridge in my car.
>
>If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its not
>on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and let the
>thermostat in the fridge do its work.,
>
>
>
>Mark.
>

 
Jon came up with the following;:

> I swapped my bog
> standard battery for an Oddyssey PC1700. That will run the fridge all
> day and night and still start my 200tdi in the morning - perfect for
> what I need at the moment.

Hmmm ... thinking of doing similar to our 300Tdi, how do you get on with the
'bigger' battery? Is it worth the extra cost?

We only occasionally need the extra oomph of a larger battery, but when we
do it's normally also at just a time when we'll also need to be sure we can
start the engine the next day .. ;)

--
Paul ...
(8(|) Homer Rules ..... Doh !!!
ebay stuff 5220527879 7987515557

 
If possible plug it into the cigarette lighter. If you cannot, then use an
ignition feed. If you leave it on all the time you will soon have a flat
battery. When you mean camping are you going to use the 12volt supply on
site or is a gas fridge as well?
Mick

"Mark Solesbury" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello all,
>
> OT, but i thought that someone in here MUST know!
>
> I am going camping for the weeked, and want to put a 12v fridge in my car.
>
> If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its
> not
> on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and let
> the
> thermostat in the fridge do its work.,
>
>
>
> Mark.
>
>


 
>Jon came up with the following;:
>
>> I swapped my bog
>> standard battery for an Oddyssey PC1700. That will run the fridge all
>> day and night and still start my 200tdi in the morning - perfect for
>> what I need at the moment.
>
>Hmmm ... thinking of doing similar to our 300Tdi, how do you get on with the
>'bigger' battery? Is it worth the extra cost?
>

Battery is great. It has massive CCA's and also the ability to
sustain light loads for a long period of time. The Oddyssey is like
having an optima red top and yellow top all in one, only it can give a
considerable more CCA's than the red top.

I thought long and hard beofre handing over the cash, but am now
pleased I did.

>We only occasionally need the extra oomph of a larger battery, but when we
>do it's normally also at just a time when we'll also need to be sure we can
>start the engine the next day .. ;)

Indeed. Isnt it always the same!
 
On or around Thu, 21 Jul 2005 11:07:13 +0100, "Paul - xxx"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Jon came up with the following;:
>
>> I swapped my bog
>> standard battery for an Oddyssey PC1700. That will run the fridge all
>> day and night and still start my 200tdi in the morning - perfect for
>> what I need at the moment.
>
>Hmmm ... thinking of doing similar to our 300Tdi, how do you get on with the
>'bigger' battery? Is it worth the extra cost?
>

small commercial battery (644 or 645) will fit the 300 TDi, with about 1/4"
to spare.

You need to re-route the wiring harness which runs around the end of the
battery and you need to attack the battery holding clamp to make it fit.
Neither job it difficult.

make sure you get the right battery (can't tell you right now, ours is out)
as the wrong one has the terminals the wrong way round and the wires might
not reach.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by
too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a
Bank Holiday weekend.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
Sorry I didnt realise you where considering putting battery in a
Disco...Size may well be important, its not such an issue in a
Defender.


On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 13:40:25 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On or around Thu, 21 Jul 2005 11:07:13 +0100, "Paul - xxx"
><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Jon came up with the following;:
>>
>>> I swapped my bog
>>> standard battery for an Oddyssey PC1700. That will run the fridge all
>>> day and night and still start my 200tdi in the morning - perfect for
>>> what I need at the moment.
>>
>>Hmmm ... thinking of doing similar to our 300Tdi, how do you get on with the
>>'bigger' battery? Is it worth the extra cost?
>>
>
>small commercial battery (644 or 645) will fit the 300 TDi, with about 1/4"
>to spare.
>
>You need to re-route the wiring harness which runs around the end of the
>battery and you need to attack the battery holding clamp to make it fit.
>Neither job it difficult.
>
>make sure you get the right battery (can't tell you right now, ours is out)
>as the wrong one has the terminals the wrong way round and the wires might
>not reach.

 
Austin Shackles came up with the following;:

> make sure you get the right battery (can't tell you right now, ours is
> out) as the wrong one has the terminals the wrong way round and the wires
> might not reach.

Heheheh, that'd really **** me off if I did that ... thanks. ;)

--
Paul ...
(8(|) Homer Rules ..... Doh !!!
ebay stuff 5220527879 7987515557
 
Jon came up with the following;:
>> Jon came up with the following;:
>>
>>> I swapped my bog
>>> standard battery for an Oddyssey PC1700. That will run the fridge all
>>> day and night and still start my 200tdi in the morning - perfect for
>>> what I need at the moment.
>>
>> Hmmm ... thinking of doing similar to our 300Tdi, how do you get on with
>> the 'bigger' battery? Is it worth the extra cost?
>>
>
> Battery is great. It has massive CCA's and also the ability to
> sustain light loads for a long period of time. The Oddyssey is like
> having an optima red top and yellow top all in one, only it can give a
> considerable more CCA's than the red top.
>
> I thought long and hard beofre handing over the cash, but am now
> pleased I did.
>
>> We only occasionally need the extra oomph of a larger battery, but when
>> we do it's normally also at just a time when we'll also need to be sure
>> we can start the engine the next day .. ;)
>
> Indeed. Isnt it always the same!

Cheers Jon, appreciated.

--
Paul ...
(8(|) Homer Rules ..... Doh !!!
ebay stuff 5220527879 7987515557
 
Jon came up with the following;:
> Sorry I didnt realise you where considering putting battery in a
> Disco...Size may well be important, its not such an issue in a
> Defender.

Thanks anyway, Jon. No worries, my bro's a welder so we can fit almost
anything in anywhere if we need to, IYSWIM .. ;)

--
Paul ...
(8(|) Homer Rules ..... Doh !!!
ebay stuff 5220527879 7987515557

 
On 2005-07-21, Mark Solesbury <[email protected]> wrote:

> If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its not
> on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and let the
> thermostat in the fridge do its work.,

Connect it to a second battery running off a split-charge system,
otherwise you risk not being able to start the truck when you come
back to it.

Also ISTR that there are different types of batteries, those intended
for starting cars which are designed for high current short duration
use, and also "Leisure" or "deep discharge" batteries that are
designed for medium-current long-duration use. Use of a normal car
battery in a deep-discharge pattern apparently damages it, have a
search for keywords like "battery deep discharge sulphation" for more
info.

--
For every expert, there is an equal but opposite expert
 
to confirm....

It is only a one off weeked, the car is a brand new golf, so the
battery/alternator is in good nick (i hope!)

I think i am going to run a live feed with a fuse..... its a new fridge 2,
so the thermostat should actually work.....

Thanks for the advice!



"Ian Rawlings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2005-07-21, Mark Solesbury <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its
not
> > on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and let
the
> > thermostat in the fridge do its work.,
>
> Connect it to a second battery running off a split-charge system,
> otherwise you risk not being able to start the truck when you come
> back to it.
>
> Also ISTR that there are different types of batteries, those intended
> for starting cars which are designed for high current short duration
> use, and also "Leisure" or "deep discharge" batteries that are
> designed for medium-current long-duration use. Use of a normal car
> battery in a deep-discharge pattern apparently damages it, have a
> search for keywords like "battery deep discharge sulphation" for more
> info.
>
> --
> For every expert, there is an equal but opposite expert


 
On Thursday 21 July 2005 09:44, Mark
Solesbury([email protected]) wrote in message
<[email protected]>

> Hello all,
>
> OT, but i thought that someone in here MUST know!
>
> I am going camping for the weeked, and want to put a 12v fridge in my car.
>
> If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its
> not on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and
> let the thermostat in the fridge do its work.,

Ideally
=======
A permanent connection should be to a seperate 'leisure' battery being
charged from a split-charger, solar cell or wind generator designed for the
purpose.

OK-ish
======
Just connect to the cigarette lighter socket. Remember to unplug when the
vehicle is stationary unless you want a flat battery.

Bodge
=====
Don't plug it in. Pre-freeze the coolbox by filling it with what you'll be
taking then stick it in the deep freeze with the lid off. If the coolbox
isn't full then fill the gaps with those freezer ice packs.
When at the site, drape a wet towel over the coolbox and keep it in the
shade but open to the breeze. Re-wet the towel when it gets nearly dry.

--
2001 FZS600 - Silver/Black
1974 SIII Land Rover - Hardtop 2.25 Petrol, Green
1954 Ford 100E Prefect - Black
 
so PDannyD was, like...
>
> Bodge
> =====
> When at the site, drape a wet towel over the coolbox and keep it in
> the shade but open to the breeze. Re-wet the towel when it gets
> nearly dry.

That's not a bodge! That's the *traditional* method (apart from the freezer
bit). Had a similar system when I was a kid, with a saucer and a large
pottery thing to cover a milk bottle. Water in the saucer, refill when dry.
Milk never went off, despite not having anything resembling a fridge.

An' yer try to tell the kids these days...


--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)


 
On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 14:38:02 +0000 (UTC), "Mark Solesbury"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>to confirm....
>
>It is only a one off weeked, the car is a brand new golf, so the
>battery/alternator is in good nick (i hope!)
>
>I think i am going to run a live feed with a fuse..... its a new fridge 2,
>so the thermostat should actually work.....
>
>Thanks for the advice!
>
>

Not to worry you but my car is a new Golf too!! In the boot is a
permenant live cigarette socket. I just use that - works fine.

However, beware. Whether its right or wrong I dont know, but the man
in the VW garage told me that a Golf battery can only be charged once
from flat without any long term damage to the battery. Airing on the
side of caution, dont let it flatten the battery!!

Jon
 
On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:44:06 +0000 (UTC), "Mark Solesbury"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>OT, but i thought that someone in here MUST know!
>
>I am going camping for the weeked, and want to put a 12v fridge in my car.
>
>If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its not
>on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and let the
>thermostat in the fridge do its work.,
>
>
>
>Mark.
>
Mark

It depends a lot on what type of fridge it is.

If it's an absorption type; i.e. silent and with no moving mechanical
parts, then connected to a 12volt supply, it will draw about 8 to 9
amps continuously. This will flatten your battery quite quickly!

These are really only intended to be operated from 12volts while your
engine is running.

If it's a peltier type cooler; i.e. a solid state cooling unit which
can also be used as a hot box by reversing the polarity, and is
equipped with 1 or 2 small fans, then expect it to draw a current of
about 4 to 5 amps continuously. A few of these are fitted with a
thermostat(not the cheap ones), and some are fitted with a low voltage
cut-out which prevents the cooler from flattening your battery. I
would expect one of these thermostatic units to be drawing current for
most of the time as they are not very efficient.

The power usage of these is high, but if equipped with a USEFUL low
voltage cut-out, could be used connected permanently.

If it's a 12volt compressor type fridge; i.e. just the same operation
as your domestic fridge, then using mine(a Waeco CF18) for an example,
you could expect it to draw a current of about 4 amps for as little as
1.5 minutes in every 15 minutes. Mine achieves this in an ambient
temperature of 20C, and with the thermostat set at 5C. Most of these
have a low voltage cut-out to save the battery from being drained.

The power usage of these is low by comparison and will almost
certainly run the longest before shutting down due to low voltage.
Hence of the 3, this would most suited to being left permanently
connected.

HTH

Neil

(Reply via NG please)
 
Yes, Neil is right that absorption and peltier element fridges will flatten
your battery quite quickly. But even a compressor fridge will, given time.
So it would be much safer to only have them life whilst the engine is
running, or go for a second battery with split charge.

That doesn't have to be expensive, a normal leisure battery doesn't cost too
much and a split charge relay should be around £10, or less.

Pieter

"Neil" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 08:44:06 +0000 (UTC), "Mark Solesbury"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Hello all,
>>
>>OT, but i thought that someone in here MUST know!
>>
>>I am going camping for the weeked, and want to put a 12v fridge in my car.
>>
>>If i connect it up, should i connect it to an ingnition feed so that its
>>not
>>on all the while, or should i wire it so it IS on all the while and let
>>the
>>thermostat in the fridge do its work.,
>>
>>
>>
>>Mark.
>>
> Mark
>
> It depends a lot on what type of fridge it is.
>
> If it's an absorption type; i.e. silent and with no moving mechanical
> parts, then connected to a 12volt supply, it will draw about 8 to 9
> amps continuously. This will flatten your battery quite quickly!
>
> These are really only intended to be operated from 12volts while your
> engine is running.
>
> If it's a peltier type cooler; i.e. a solid state cooling unit which
> can also be used as a hot box by reversing the polarity, and is
> equipped with 1 or 2 small fans, then expect it to draw a current of
> about 4 to 5 amps continuously. A few of these are fitted with a
> thermostat(not the cheap ones), and some are fitted with a low voltage
> cut-out which prevents the cooler from flattening your battery. I
> would expect one of these thermostatic units to be drawing current for
> most of the time as they are not very efficient.
>
> The power usage of these is high, but if equipped with a USEFUL low
> voltage cut-out, could be used connected permanently.
>
> If it's a 12volt compressor type fridge; i.e. just the same operation
> as your domestic fridge, then using mine(a Waeco CF18) for an example,
> you could expect it to draw a current of about 4 amps for as little as
> 1.5 minutes in every 15 minutes. Mine achieves this in an ambient
> temperature of 20C, and with the thermostat set at 5C. Most of these
> have a low voltage cut-out to save the battery from being drained.
>
> The power usage of these is low by comparison and will almost
> certainly run the longest before shutting down due to low voltage.
> Hence of the 3, this would most suited to being left permanently
> connected.
>
> HTH
>
> Neil
>
> (Reply via NG please)


 
so Neil was, like...
>
> If it's a peltier type cooler; i.e. a solid state cooling unit which
> can also be used as a hot box by reversing the polarity, and is
> equipped with 1 or 2 small fans, then expect it to draw a current of
> about 4 to 5 amps continuously. A few of these are fitted with a

Anyone know if these peltier types are repairable? I have this type of cool
box which doesn't seem to work, either cooling or heating. The heat/cool
lights go on, and the fan works, but no noticeable change in temperature
whichever way round the plug is. It's old now but it insulates well, and
I'd like to have a go at fixing it if there is a way, before I chuck it and
get another.

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)


 
Richard Brookman wrote:

> Anyone know if these peltier types are repairable? I have this type of cool
> box which doesn't seem to work, either cooling or heating.

You can buy new cells, which are better than the cheap Chinese cells.
The cheapies aren't sealed around the edges, letting condensation attack
them. The best cells are made by Marlow industries (www.marlow.com) and
they will sell direct to you on a credit card. I think the DT12-8 is the
biggie that you need.

Use a LITTLE TINY BIT of the white thermal transfer compound stuff on
the surfaces of the heatsinks in the fridge wipe off the huge amounts
that they use to guarantee the cell will fail after a few months. The
amount you use should be barely opaque and very thin.

To really boost performance, you need to lap the heatsinks on very fine
emery on a glass plate - I have had 10 degrees more cooling from these
fridges with that kind of care.

Steve
 
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