Orange coolant hard to find! Options?

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Bellhouse

Member
Posts
38
Location
Sweden
Hi,
RR -08 Westminster V8 supercharged.

I find red, purple, green, purple/red, almost orange (like purple/red and some water). It seems quite hard to find any orange coolant in Sweden. Do it have to be orange, or can it be almost orange? Or can I flush the system and fill it up with red?

Can someone help me with this, I’m quite new to RR and everything with it.

Regards, A Swede!

IMG_4899.jpeg
IMG_4898.jpeg
 
Probably either, just check the label or the 'meets specification....' - TBH, the coolant is due a change anyway given it's age, maximum concentration is 63% for OAT so make sure you know if it's pre-diluted or not, you'll also struggle to drain every bit out so just accept that 20-30% of the coolant will be 'old'. Vacuum filling is the best way forward with a V8 S/C - you can get a chinesium kit on fleabay for less than an hours labour, even if you only use it once, you'll be glad you did.

Edit:- it needs to be 'OAT' not HOAT, si-OAT or any other variation.
 
Graculus said:
It needs to be OAT, there are several 'shades', and variants (si-OAT, HOAT etc.) but the specification WSS-M97B44 is a very common OAT specification as used in most Ford vehicles amongst others, I think it's something like G13 or G13+ in VWG engines
Do not use Yellow, it'll corrode your engine from the inside out....

Antifreeze - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
Click to expand...
So as long as it is OAT or HOAT and in a shade of orange I can use it? Of course after I’ve flushed the old out.
 
Yes, beware of HOAT though as it's sometimes a bit 'corrosive' in too high a concentration, which you'll be wanting for maximum protection. I'd suggest just draining rather than flushing as you'll then have an unknown quantity of water in there (unless you intend to flush with diluted coolant!) OAT will be 100% compatible with any remnants of old coolant in the engine so the worst that you'll have is a slightly degraded low temperature protection, maybe by 2-3 degrees, which you can check with a refractometer and correct with neat coolant once the engine has been through a couple of heat/cool cycles.
 
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