one more p38 with problems

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maxlee

New Member
Posts
3
Location
fareham hampshire
hi guys

right i bought a p38 the other week with the becm gone down (said some garage) after reading loads of info on the internet

on the display it has keycode lock out so we tryed entering the EKA but noticed the light didn't come up on the speedo so then we took the door lock/switch part out and checked thats working witch it looks like it is

i took the becm out lifted the lid and cleaned all the pins etc with spray thinking might be simple you never know... but no joy

so what do you guys think will be the best thing to do i don't want to go chucking money at it buying a 2nd hand becm then getting it to talk to the car to find its not the becm

is there any tests i can do and soft wear i can get for the laptop as i have a friend with the leads but we can't find/work out what software we need.

i really don't want to be beaten by it but at the same time there are better cars out there for less money when things start adding up

the car is a 2.5 dse manual on a N reg
 
Get someone with diagnostics to look at it. Playing with the BECM if you don't know what you are doing can be VERY expensive. You can't just drop a new BECM in without some serious daig.
 
+1 to Wammers comments, plus check the under bonnet fuse box for signs and smells of burning.
If the BECM is the problem, you would be better sending it to Rick the Pick for repair than thinking of a replacement.
No standard OBD diagnostics will work on your car, you need a Nanocom.
 
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thanks guys the friend that was helping me built a M/S ecu for one of my bmw's so i was supervised but he's not in to range rovers/ land rovers after yesterdays fun and games he thinks i should stick to bmw's but i wont get a dog crate and pram in the back of one of them guessing that nanocom gear is £££££ and you can't just bang the software on a laptop

i'll send rick a pm would be grate if all the immobilizer could just be deleted no ones really going to nick a p38 these days
 
thanks guys the friend that was helping me built a M/S ecu for one of my bmw's so i was supervised but he's not in to range rovers/ land rovers after yesterdays fun and games he thinks i should stick to bmw's but i wont get a dog crate and pram in the back of one of them guessing that nanocom gear is £££££ and you can't just bang the software on a laptop

i'll send rick a pm would be grate if all the immobilizer could just be deleted no ones really going to nick a p38 these days
Nanocom £350/400 Blackbox Solutions Ltd - Designers and manufacturers of the best vehicle diagnostic tools. Alarm can be disabled, but there is more than one type of immobilised, loss of sync can only be overcome with diagnostics.
Looked after and with dry carpets and a good battery they don't give much trouble.
 
hi guys

right i bought a p38 the other week with the becm gone down (said some garage) after reading loads of info on the internet

on the display it has keycode lock out so we tryed entering the EKA but noticed the light didn't come up on the speedo so then we took the door lock/switch part out and checked thats working witch it looks like it is

i took the becm out lifted the lid and cleaned all the pins etc with spray thinking might be simple you never know... but no joy

so what do you guys think will be the best thing to do i don't want to go chucking money at it buying a 2nd hand becm then getting it to talk to the car to find its not the becm

is there any tests i can do and soft wear i can get for the laptop as i have a friend with the leads but we can't find/work out what software we need.

i really don't want to be beaten by it but at the same time there are better cars out there for less money when things start adding up

the car is a 2.5 dse manual on a N reg


Keycode lockout means you've tried too many times to get in. If you leave it 30 minutes it should allow another go, I think. However, after too many goes it will lock up the BECM thinking you're trying to steal it.

I don't think there's a light on the speedo that lights up? Might be wrong. Thought it was the one by the windscreen that flashed?

There might be a member on here with diagnostics near you.

Rick-the-pick can make sure it never troubles you again, I believe.
 
You can't enter the EKA with Keycode Lock Out on the dash. I had this just yesterday.

You have to wait 30 mins until it's gone then do the EKA thing.

If you put it all back together and try again it might work for you.
 
I bow to your greater knowledge.:) Why would you not want the light to show, it gives you an indication a signal is being sent to the BECM or am I wrong, again.:D Your up late Tony, didn't nursey put you to bed ?:D:D

You can either use side lamps or hazards as the signal that car is being locked or unlocked. If alarm is triggered you can have either hazards, Dip and tail or side lights flashing as a visual indication. :);)
 
You can either use side lamps or hazards as the signal that car is being locked or unlocked. If alarm is triggered you can have either hazards, Dip and tail or side lights flashing as a visual indication. :);)

It was the dash side warning light that I was talking about, if that makes a difference, not the external lights.:);)
 
It was the dash side warning light that I was talking about, if that makes a difference, not the external lights.:);)

To be honest Alan i don't know what flashes inside the car when imputing EKA code. So i will have to go along with what you say happens. It is not a function i have used to any great extent. :);)
 
Yup, the side light warning light on the dash flashes each time you input the EKA code if it's being sent to the BECM. And you haven't told me why nursey never got you to bed before 2400. :D:D:D

Barack Obama rang to ask advice on middle east situation, couldn't just hang up on him, you know how it is. I presume then that the hazard lamp would flash if they were set to be visual indication. :p:D:D:D
 
thanks guys I PMed nick and he got back to me very fast I'm now going to have a look round the truck and work out if its worth me spending money on it or just putting it on ebay for a braker/some one with a bit more love for the p38 to buy it.

its tidy ish 130K history etc time to have a think
 
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