on bump stops still

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R

rongold

Member
Posts
27
Location
stafford, uk
So run 3 new wires (no connect on old one's) from front right sensor to eas (new sensor fitted), cleared fault with easunlock software (checked a couple of times and now shows no faults).
But she's still not going up, on dashboard I now have 1 light permantly on bottom one then 1 other light just flashing which moves up and down with button but no action.
So computer saying no fault but no movement, pump does come on for a brief time then goes off.
also ran software to get sensor heights
on back left 56 right 51
on front left 61 right 127
is this whats causing the problem as those numbers on front not right, if so how to sort this ?
 
rongold said:
on dashboard I now have 1 light permantly on bottom one then 1 other light just flashing
Click to expand...

That would happen if something is preventing the EAS from working. Like a door being open, or the tailgate or your foot on the brake (or the engine not running).

I assume all your doors work ok and it doesn't think one is stuck open? I guess the interior lights would be on tho....:doh:
 
Lack of air pressure....

Try running the car and leaving a door open, put the height selector to the position of the solid light and waiting 10-15 minutes for the compressor to fill the air tank...

Get in close all the doors and select the standard ride height...it should pop up...if it doesn't, the Compressor could be shot....do the Wammers check in the How To to check the compressor for output.

If the Compressor is good, I would suspect a leak in the storage side of the system....
 
NikTheGeek said:
That would happen if something is preventing the EAS from working. Like a door being open, or the tailgate or your foot on the brake (or the engine not running).

I assume all your doors work ok and it doesn't think one is stuck open? I guess the interior lights would be on tho....:doh:
Click to expand...

Yes have checked all doors and tailgate closed and console confirming that as well.
 
Saint.V8 said:
Lack of air pressure....

Try running the car and leaving a door open, put the height selector to the position of the solid light and waiting 10-15 minutes for the compressor to fill the air tank...

Get in close all the doors and select the standard ride height...it should pop up...if it doesn't, the Compressor could be shot....do the Wammers check in the How To to check the compressor for output.

If the Compressor is good, I would suspect a leak in the storage side of the system....
Click to expand...

Thanks will give that a try in the morning, will that also cause the reading front left 61 right 127 on the sensors
 
rongold said:
Thanks will give that a try in the morning, will that also cause the reading front left 61 right 127 on the sensors
Click to expand...
Depending on your model year, the height sensors can be swapped oneside to the other....hence why readings on oneside of the vehicle will be different to the other, as the wiper arm will be in a different position on the resistance board....
 
rongold said:
Thanks will give that a try in the morning, will that also cause the reading front left 61 right 127 on the sensors
Click to expand...
Those sensor readings say it's on the bump stops apart from the one that reads 127. If that corner is on the bump stops I'd look at that sensor as the reading is wrong.
 
the sensors should all be in the same sort of region.
Disconnect the high one mechanically and exercise it through its range to see what it reads on the software. I think you may have cross connected it electrically .
refit/rewire it so it reads similar to the others.

then run the car with a door open for say 10 minutes with the compressor running. Close the door and up she goes.
 
Sensors should read within a couple of beats side to side ideally. A difference of 66 means you have a problem with that sensor.
 
Datatek said:
Those sensor readings say it's on the bump stops apart from the one that reads 127. If that corner is on the bump stops I'd look at that sensor as the reading is wrong.
Click to expand...

lowfat said:
the sensors should all be in the same sort of region.
Disconnect the high one mechanically and exercise it through its range to see what it reads on the software. I think you may have cross connected it electrically .
refit/rewire it so it reads similar to the others.

then run the car with a door open for say 10 minutes with the compressor running. Close the door and up she goes.
Click to expand...

wammers said:
Sensors should read within a couple of beats side to side ideally. A difference of 66 means you have a problem with that sensor.
Click to expand...
Fair game - I thought that if they can be swapped from side to side like some variants can be, I thought if it was upside down the wiper arm would be picking up a different resistance reading hence why one side would read higher than the other.....

I then re-read his original post and yes the 127 reading is not correct in comparison to the others....

I stand here back in my corner, hat donned, head hung in shame...for shame....:eek:
 
Saint.V8 said:
Lack of air pressure....

Try running the car and leaving a door open, put the height selector to the position of the solid light and waiting 10-15 minutes for the compressor to fill the air tank...

Get in close all the doors and select the standard ride height...it should pop up...if it doesn't, the Compressor could be shot....do the Wammers check in the How To to check the compressor for output.

If the Compressor is good, I would suspect a leak in the storage side of the system....
Click to expand...

So started her up this morning with door open, pump comes on for a few moments then goes of and stays off
 
rongold said:
So started her up this morning with door open, pump comes on for a few moments then goes of and stays off
Click to expand...

Have you done the pump check in the "How to" either the pump is knackered or it is full of air. In which case you maybe should have an EAS fault reference the height sensor. If it has no EAS fault then i would suggest there is no air. Do the lamps come on when you switch on then go out just leaving the one solid and one flashing?
 
wammers said:
Have you done the pump check in the "How to" either the pump is knackered or it is full of air. In which case you maybe should have an EAS fault reference the height sensor. If it has no EAS fault then i would suggest there is no air. Do the lamps come on when you switch on then go out just leaving the one solid and one flashing?
Click to expand...
That one height sensor is reading so far out from the others that it may be causing the ECU to be confused.
If he does your air supply check Tony and he has air I would expect the air tank to be full and perhaps it just doesn't want to move because of the sensor. It should come up with an fault, so as it doesn't it's perhaps it's not that but holes in software are not unknown.
Another possibility is that the compressor is cutting out after a few seconds due to an electrical fault.
 
Latest so far -
Relay out, bypass wire and pump runs so kept it running for 10 mins and she went up.
She went up and down with the lights working correctly.
Replaced relay in fusebox now not always working, goes down but will not go up with light flashing and pump not cutting in for long.
Now could this be the Air Suspension pressure Switch causing this now ?
 
Certainly sounds like it.....

If when you charged the tank using the Relay bypass, she sprang into life.....and with the system plugged in as per the norm, the compressor only runs for a few seconds before cutting out...it certainly points that way....

Or maybe and this is spit-balling here....if the NRV to the tank wasn't letting by when the compressor runs or if the diaphram valve wasn't opening to fill the tank, the compressor will run till the pressure in the valve block builds because of a stuck valve (as this is where the pressure switch is) and then shut off.....

Wammers/Datatek is this possible??
 
Saint.V8 said:
Certainly sounds like it.....

If when you charged the tank using the Relay bypass, she sprang into life.....and with the system plugged in as per the norm, the compressor only runs for a few seconds before cutting out...it certainly points that way....

Or maybe and this is spit-balling here....if the NRV to the tank wasn't letting by when the compressor runs or if the diaphram valve wasn't opening to fill the tank, the compressor will run till the pressure in the valve block builds because of a stuck valve (as this is where the pressure switch is) and then shut off.....

Wammers/Datatek is this possible??
Click to expand...

The diaphragm valve is held closed to fill tank, if he has forced compressor and it rose then it is odds on pressure switch duff, he may like to try disconnecting plug under valve block and checking for good contact on pressure switch wires. Two red wires going into that plug.
 
wammers said:
The diaphragm valve is held closed to fill tank, if he has forced compressor and it rose then it is odds on pressure switch duff, he may like to try disconnecting plug under valve block and checking for good contact on pressure switch wires. Two red wires going into that plug.
Click to expand...

Will check that out, thanks
 
wammers said:
The diaphragm valve is held closed to fill tank, if he has forced compressor and it rose then it is odds on pressure switch duff, he may like to try disconnecting plug under valve block and checking for good contact on pressure switch wires. Two red wires going into that plug.
Click to expand...

Have I got to dismantle pump and valve block to get to this switch ?
 
rongold said:
Have I got to dismantle pump and valve block to get to this switch ?
Click to expand...

You will have to take the valve block out to get at the plug to check the connections or to change the pressure switch. It is under the front part of the block below exhaust solenoid valve. To change switch, remove socket internal cover and use a suitable pointed probe to flick back pin retainers,then pull pins out. Fit new switch and push new wires back in. Does not matter which wire goes in which hole. Replace internal cover.


EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide PaulP38A.com
 
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