ok - EAS - what have I missed?

The ongoing saga of the EAS.
I eventually got time to plug in the new cable and hook it up to the laptop.
Just to recap - EAS went into soft fault then hard fault. I replaced the block seals and the compressor seals and piston seals.

Here's what happened -
Plug in serial cable into laptop
turned ignition to key position 2
confirmed connection
the 5 centre console lights on constantly
(position indicators and that one to the right - the wheel with a line through it on a switch)
the car and lift arrow light under the speedo is on
35 mph only
EAS Fault

hit UNLOCK

Hit STOP

unplugged cable

switched off car

turned ignition back to 2 -
5 lights still on constantly
car and arrow light on constantly
no fault
read faults - nothing
function - pump on OK pump off OK
height sensor - sending signals
calibrate try to manually instruct car to adjust to Standard - clicking from solenoid - nothing else
same with other levels.

So - the pump switches off and on when I tell it to BUT when I try and tell it to come up to any height on the calibrate page I get solenoid clicks - something is not working.

disconnect the laptop - switch off the car and then start engine.
This time the access indicator ride height comes on flashing with the car and lift arrow light, back lifts slightly, front not at all. attempt to set height to standard - nothing lights and switch don't respond.

Any ideas?

seems to me that for some reason the pump isn't coming on when solenoids are opened.

No air look at the "How to" to check pump function.

wammers said:

No air look at the "How to" to check pump function.

Click to expand...

+1 and you didn't follow the disconnect sequence when you stopped the software.

Thanks folks,

Keith, from the PDF instructions the disconnect I've been following is thus:

"Once the Rx buffer is responding with the correct "FF" sequence, you are ready to proceed. Press the Unlock button and wait until the command is sent and the buffer again responds with the "FF" sequence. The EAS is now unlocked but the Dash message will not disappear until you complete all the steps. Press the Stop button and unplug the EAS cable. The Dash message should be cleared and the fault is now reset. If not then repeat steps 3-4."

so pressing STOP on the software, waiting for it to respond, then unplugging the cable, am I missing something in the sequence

abercorn said:

Thanks folks,

Keith, from the PDF instructions the disconnect I've been following is thus:

"Once the Rx buffer is responding with the correct "FF" sequence, you are ready to proceed. Press the Unlock button and wait until the command is sent and the buffer again responds with the "FF" sequence. The EAS is now unlocked but the Dash message will not disappear until you complete all the steps. Press the Stop button and unplug the EAS cable. The Dash message should be cleared and the fault is now reset. If not then repeat steps 3-4."

so pressing STOP on the software, waiting for it to respond, then unplugging the cable, am I missing something in the sequence

Click to expand...

Press the stop button, turn off the ignition, unplug the cable is the sequence I use, you can unplug the cable first but the connections are still live. The message will not disappear until you cycle the ignition, i.e. turn the ignition off and then back on again.
I assume you have the Green Good Idle?

yes, Green Good
thanks keith
well i checked the compressor - it's OK, I fixed a weeping collet from the diagphram end.
at this point the flippin battery decided to give up the ghost (it's been sat for a few weeks whilst I was waiting for the collets) so until it recharges I won't know what the issue is.

However, it looks like the thermal switch might be to blame.

Obviously whilst all this was happening the traction/ABS/30mph mode decided to kick in so suspect brake switch is playing up now.

aaaarrgghhh!!!!

no need to buy one of those frustrating festive puzzles just get yourself a car with 1990's rover electrics and you'll have all the brain teasing and frustration you could ever want!

I'm going to work on the '56 International Harvester Tractor tomorrow as a nice old fashioned diesel with a lever starter will be just the medicine after all these electronics.

abercorn said:

yes, Green Good
thanks keith
well i checked the compressor - it's OK, I fixed a weeping collet from the diagphram end.
at this point the flippin battery decided to give up the ghost (it's been sat for a few weeks whilst I was waiting for the collets) so until it recharges I won't know what the issue is.

However, it looks like the thermal switch might be to blame.

Obviously whilst all this was happening the traction/ABS/30mph mode decided to kick in so suspect brake switch is playing up now.

aaaarrgghhh!!!!

no need to buy one of those frustrating festive puzzles just get yourself a car with 1990's rover electrics and you'll have all the brain teasing and frustration you could ever want!

I'm going to work on the '56 International Harvester Tractor tomorrow as a nice old fashioned diesel with a lever starter will be just the medicine after all these electronics.

Click to expand...

The three amigos may just be down to low volts and may go away when you have charged battery. Brake switch fault will only light ABS and give message ABS fault it won't effect the other two.

Keith, Wammers
Thanks for all your help and assistance. I waited until the weather got better, replaced ALL the collets and re ran the programme and it now works a treat. Looks like we had 2 weeping collets which was causing the pump to work too hard and this knackered the piston seal.

I replaced all the O rings in the valve block, all the collets and the piston seal and seals in the compressor, ran Datateck's cable and SW and all is now fine in the world of the P38.

I took advantage of the festive period to run a slow recharge on the battery and sure enough the other warnings all went off.

I'm going to bring the EAS into an annual service cycle from now on and replace the o rings and seals in the block and compressor annually as well as checking the air springs for wear and tear every six months. I follow a similar maintenance schedule on the CX and the far more complex hydropneumatic system gives me no issues and is probably the part of the car in the best condition.

Thanks again

Richard

BTW -
I had a hell of a problem sourcing new collets - ended up with a 2 week wait from Craddocks who told me that there was an issue with supply at Land Rover,

We use air compression in our business and have several specialists who supply to us. I'm going to see if we can source these from our suppliers, or a similar type, and when I've located them I'll post contact details.

It's not so much that you can't get them - it's how quickly you can get them!

abercorn said:

BTW -
I had a hell of a problem sourcing new collets - ended up with a 2 week wait from Craddocks who told me that there was an issue with supply at Land Rover,

We use air compression in our business and have several specialists who supply to us. I'm going to see if we can source these from our suppliers, or a similar type, and when I've located them I'll post contact details.

It's not so much that you can't get them - it's how quickly you can get them!

Click to expand...

Last time i saw any they were on sale from P38Spares, but bloody daft money for what they are.

Waste of time doing the valve block O rings every year, every 30k miles or 3 years would be more than enough IMO.

abercorn said:

BTW -
I had a hell of a problem sourcing new collets - ended up with a 2 week wait from Craddocks who told me that there was an issue with supply at Land Rover,

We use air compression in our business and have several specialists who supply to us. I'm going to see if we can source these from our suppliers, or a similar type, and when I've located them I'll post contact details.

It's not so much that you can't get them - it's how quickly you can get them!

Click to expand...

Air Pipe Connectors - 6mm - Collet - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

£1.60 a piece and in stock

P38guy said:

Air Pipe Connectors - 6mm - Collet - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

£1.60 a piece and in stock

Click to expand...

Better than the £2.19 each from P38Spares but a lot more than the 30 pence or so they should be.

P38guy said:

Air Pipe Connectors - 6mm - Collet - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

£1.60 a piece and in stock

Click to expand...

I've very mixed feelings about Rimmers having had some dubious quality bits from them in the past,

When I called them they said they didn't have them in stock, - I interpret this as either they didn't or the guy on the phone couldn't be arsed checking. either way they were little help.

I think that this is because they have become so large and multi marque.

Certainly, with my classic landies and the Triumph 2000 I tend to go to a marque specialist for parts. - they tend to be run by enthusiasts