Oil leaks & trivial bollocks!!

Had a good afternoon at the 110 today, did a few more jobs.

Firstly I put an Exmoor trim seat re-trim kit on the shagged seat base. Jesus you need three arms!!

I power washed all the gearbox/tx box to make it nice & clean to find the drips. It's coming from the
front propshaft output flange on the TX box, is it likely to be a hard job?

The ****tiest job was changing the pedal rubber (series type) on the clutch, what a bastard it was! It
wraps metal tags made from titanium around the feckin' pedal in 5 different piggin' directions. Got so
fecked off I sawed the bloody thing off with a hacksaw!

Needed to change the gaiter round the gear lever etc but some fool had araldited the feckin' gear knob on
& I couldn't get it off, I tried sawing the bastard thing off only to find it to be made from the same
grade of bakelite as the space shuttles' landing gear aluminium, so I ****ed it off with a hammer (not a
good idea, very sharp bits & stabby too) Then we get to the ty-rap that goes round the new gaiter, it was
feckin' useless, had to rive it so hard to click once. Why? two more mm on the thing would have made it
really easy to pull in ffs!

Next job the springs/dampers, then headlining removal & cleaning, then alpine windows, then rear window
seals, then................................

Nige, loving every minute!!


--
Subaru WRX (Annabel)

Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)

'"Say hello to my little friend"

Nige wrote:

> Had a good afternoon at the 110 today, did a few more jobs.
>
> Firstly I put an Exmoor trim seat re-trim kit on the shagged seat base.
> Jesus you need three arms!!
>
> I power washed all the gearbox/tx box to make it nice & clean to find the
> drips. It's coming from the front propshaft output flange on the TX box,
> is it likely to be a hard job?
>
> The ****tiest job was changing the pedal rubber (series type) on the
> clutch, what a bastard it was! It wraps metal tags made from titanium
> around the feckin' pedal in 5 different piggin' directions. Got so fecked
> off I sawed the bloody thing off with a hacksaw!
>
> Needed to change the gaiter round the gear lever etc but some fool had
> araldited the feckin' gear knob on & I couldn't get it off, I tried sawing
> the bastard thing off only to find it to be made from the same grade of
> bakelite as the space shuttles' landing gear aluminium, so I ****ed it off
> with a hammer (not a good idea, very sharp bits & stabby too) Then we get
> to the ty-rap that goes round the new gaiter, it was feckin' useless, had
> to rive it so hard to click once. Why? two more mm on the thing would have
> made it really easy to pull in ffs!
>
> Next job the springs/dampers, then headlining removal & cleaning, then
> alpine windows, then rear window seals,
> then................................
>
> Nige, loving every minute!!
>
>
> --
> Subaru WRX (Annabel)
>
> Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)
>
> '"Say hello to my little friend"

Front output flange is fairly easy to do, but as with all of these the
output flange may be grooved where the seal runs, making aa successful job
unlikely without replacing it as well.
JD

JD wrote:

> Nige wrote:
>
>
>>Had a good afternoon at the 110 today, did a few more jobs.
>>
>>
>>I power washed all the gearbox/tx box to make it nice & clean to find the
>>drips. It's coming from the front propshaft output flange on the TX box,
>>is it likely to be a hard job?
>>
>
>
> Front output flange is fairly easy to do, but as with all of these the
> output flange may be grooved where the seal runs, making aa successful job
> unlikely without replacing it as well.
> JD

I don't know if the technique can be applied here but you can often fit
a (new, please!) seal in a slightly different axial position so that it
will not run in the old groove. Make sure that it is perpendicular to
the shaft.

If that fails or can't be used, Speedi-Sleeves are excellent for
repairing grooved shafts if you can get one the right size. Not
especially cheap but cheaper than the complete flange at Land Rover
prices. They also do a good job on the later axle spindles where the
seal seat is not replaceable.

>Firstly I put an Exmoor trim seat re-trim kit on the shagged seat base. Jesus you need three arms!!

Whilst needing 3 arms is it an easy job? I have both my seats to do
sometime soon before we go on holiday.
>
>I power washed all the gearbox/tx box to make it nice & clean to find the drips. It's coming from the
>front propshaft output flange on the TX box, is it likely to be a hard job?

Did you power wash it whilst still on the vehicle??? I mean remove
the tunnel and clean from inside. If so i guess you've got crud all
over the inside of the 110?!?!?
As for the oil seal... Easy peasy. Remove the prop, remove the nut
holding the flange on, remove washer when you pull flange out,
retrieve felt washer and take the screwdriver to the old oil seal to
prize out (take care not to damage TBox casing).

From experience its more likely that the flange has a ring worn around
where it seals (or not in your case) to the seal. Buy a new sealing
kit that contains seal, flange, felt washer and nut. If you just
replace the seal it will leak again soon!!!

When you put everything back, slide the flange on, then the felt
washer, then the steel washer.

>
>The ****tiest job was changing the pedal rubber (series type) on the clutch, what a bastard it was! It
>wraps metal tags made from titanium around the feckin' pedal in 5 different piggin' directions. Got so
>fecked off I sawed the bloody thing off with a hacksaw!

If only my list of jobs was cosmetic!!!

Jon

"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >Firstly I put an Exmoor trim seat re-trim kit on the shagged seat base.
> >Jesus you need three arms!!
>
> Whilst needing 3 arms is it an easy job? I have both my seats to do
> sometime soon before we go on holiday.

Once you have done one it's very easy, the hard bit is it feels too small &
you think it wont fit but it does - just! The way I did it was start at the
front & work backwards. Once you take into consideration the foam costs as
well as the cover you may as well pay another fiver & get a fully trimmed
base!!

>>
>>I power washed all the gearbox/tx box to make it nice & clean to find the
>>drips. It's coming from the
>>front propshaft output flange on the TX box, is it likely to be a hard
>>job?
>
> Did you power wash it whilst still on the vehicle??? I mean remove
> the tunnel and clean from inside. If so i guess you've got crud all
> over the inside of the 110?!?!?

I did it from above with the tunnel removed, but yes there is some crud!!

> As for the oil seal... Easy peasy. Remove the prop, remove the nut
> holding the flange on, remove washer when you pull flange out,
> retrieve felt washer and take the screwdriver to the old oil seal to
> prize out (take care not to damage TBox casing).
>
> From experience its more likely that the flange has a ring worn around
> where it seals (or not in your case) to the seal. Buy a new sealing
> kit that contains seal, flange, felt washer and nut. If you just
> replace the seal it will leak again soon!!!
>
> When you put everything back, slide the flange on, then the felt
> washer, then the steel washer.
>
Someone has mentioned a sleeve kit that will take up the slack etc, i might
give it a go!

>>
>>The ****tiest job was changing the pedal rubber (series type) on the
>>clutch, what a bastard it was! It
>>wraps metal tags made from titanium around the feckin' pedal in 5
>>different piggin' directions. Got so
>>fecked off I sawed the bloody thing off with a hacksaw!
>
> If only my list of jobs was cosmetic!!!

There's a good few bits of both to do!

>
> Jon

Nige