Series 3 Oil leaking from water pump bolt

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
W

Webley1991

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,579
Location
London
A problem I have noticed is that oil (not coolant) is leaking from around the bolt in the red circle in the photo. The oil seems to be running down the outside of the radiator hose and dripping off at the bottom of the hose.

Does this mean that oil is seeping through from the timing case? What is the best way of stopping this?

Thanks for any replies.
 

Attachments

  • oil_leak.jpg
    oil_leak.jpg
    189.9 KB · Views: 346
Last edited:
bolt does go through the timing case to the block ,timing case has oil splashing around so presumably gasket is split around the bolt hole , often happens if too much sealant is applied to a paper gasket , some rtv silicone around the bolt and under the washer might seal it, but a replacement gasket would be better
 
Thanks for the reply.

Will the leak likely get worse over time? What I am most concerned about is coolant getting into the timing case.
 
I know it's an old thread but I solved it in the end.

I originally tried taking the bolt out, cleaning out the hole and sealing it with RTV sealant but that didn't work.

Eventually I replaced the locking washer with an 8mm copper washer and tightened it up well. No more leak.
 
Thanks letting us have the solution to this one.

Incidentally, I have the timing cover off mine at the moment and wonder whether the sump gasket needs to be replaced as part of the re-fitting of the T/C gasket - any advise? ;)
 
Rubins4 said:
Thanks letting us have the solution to this one.

Incidentally, I have the timing cover off mine at the moment and wonder whether the sump gasket needs to be replaced as part of the re-fitting of the T/C gasket - any advise? ;)
Click to expand...

Sump gasket not needed... but you can check crank seal unless your replacing that anyways ...

Just T/C gasket and water pump gasket ...
 
Great thanks Dippy. Yeah, I've replaced the front crank seal, drilled out the rivets for splash guard and tapped holes for machine screw replacements for future seal changes, fitted new water pump with gaskets and have new timing cover gaskets to hand (big one and small one). I might take the sump off anyway and fit a new gasket because it was weeping slightly, but the engine is back in the chassis now which might make it a bit harder :eek: Should have done it when it was on the stand.
 
The sump is usually a barsteward to remove ...stuck by a previous owner with all the silicon in the known universe ...

Give it a dose of WD40 all around, go and have a brew, come back and a sharp tap with a mallet on the drain plug should shift it ....

Clean the mating surfaces well ... there's one stud at the back and just bolts at the front, so it should pivot from the front ...
 
Sump off is only a number #3 on the faff scale. Its mating surface looks like a lunar landscape so a cheap thin gasket will not seal it. Probably why they are a #6 if that blue sh1te is used.
You can get a thick fiber gasket but its a lottery if ordering on line.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

andyfreelandy
Freelander 1 TD4 Turbo rasping noise SOLVED
Replies
0
Views
294
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
R
P38A P38 2.5 Coolant leak
Replies
6
Views
445
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
S
300tdi water in crankcase breather
Replies
4
Views
551
Singr07
S
hawky666
Water leak from 300tdi
Replies
5
Views
568
Forrest Gump
F
roule
water pump broken bolt
Replies
13
Views
791
Pug957
P
Back
Top