Oil leak from water pump bolt

congo181 · May 25, 2021

Hi all. I’m giving my 2.5NA some 96k mile TLC and today I took the water pump off.
Is it normal that one of the lower bolts is clear through to the block and now leaks oil? Seems strange to me.

Cheers
Jim
PS - any good tricks for removing the pulley?

Turboman · May 25, 2021

congo181 said:
Hi all. I’m giving my 2.5NA some 96k mile TLC and today I took the water pump off.
Is it normal that one of the lower bolts is clear through to the block and now leaks oil? Seems strange to me.
View attachment 239155

Cheers
Jim
PS - any good tricks for removing the pulley?

So long as the oil is coming from the block not the timing case, it is OK, used loctite thread sealant as per instructions on re-assembly.

When you say " removing the pulley", do you mean removing the nut, or removing the pulley once the nut is removed?

Flossie · May 25, 2021

Best would have been to slacken the bolts whilst still in situ with the belt on.
You can clamp the belt in a vice using the clamped belt to hold the pulley if you get my drift.
I had the water pump oil leak thing on my 200tdi but it leaked oil when the pump was fitted and it was my fault I discovered. I replaced the bolts with studs to help gasket etc location thinking I was being smart but I had used a too long stud which protruded into the cylinder head bolt holes which then, when I replaced the head later, stopped that cylinder head bolt seating properly, oil then ran down the head bolt hole and travelled out along the water pump stud.

Turboman · May 25, 2021

Flossie said:
Best would have been to slacken the bolts whilst still in situ with the belt on.
You can clamp the belt in a vice using the clamped belt to hold the pulley if you get my drift.
I had the water pump oil leak thing on my 200tdi but it leaked oil when the pump was fitted and it was my fault I discovered. I replaced the bolts with studs to help gasket etc location thinking I was being smart but I had used a too long stud which protruded into the cylinder head bolt holes which then, when I replaced the head later, stopped that cylinder head bolt seating properly, oil then ran down the head bolt hole and travelled out along the water pump stud.

Interesting. Maybe he means the pulley on the water pump. I assumed he meant the big pulley on the crankshaft that is visible in his pic.

congo181 · May 25, 2021

Hi all.
The oil is dripping from one of the bottom water pump holes. As long as it’s not a problem I’ll just reassemble with some loctite.

The pulley I was referring to is the crank pulley - sorry for being vague.
Ive done some searching and looks like I need the crank locking tool. I’ve got the 4 bolts undone ok so I guess I’ll need to make the tool unless someone in Kent will lend me one

Jim

Turboman · May 25, 2021

congo181 said:
Hi all.
The oil is dripping from one of the bottom water pump holes. As long as it’s not a problem I’ll just reassemble with some loctite.

The pulley I was referring to is the crank pulley - sorry for being vague.
Ive done some searching and looks like I need the crank locking tool. I’ve got the 4 bolts undone ok so I guess I’ll need to make the tool unless someone in Kent will lend me one
Jim

Personally, I would get a big 3/4 drive socket and solid drive bar, put the drive bar on the chassis leg, and kick it over a bit on the starter.
Keep well out of the way when you do this, and make sure children or animals are clear. Put a block of wood on the chassis leg to protect it first.
Once the bolt is loose, remove it, put a big puller on the pulley, and give it a couple of smacks with a club hammer from different directions.
They usually come off.

congo181 · May 25, 2021

Turboman said:
Personally, I would get a big 3/4 drive socket and solid drive bar, put the drive bar on the chassis leg, and kick it over a bit on the starter.
Keep well out of the way when you do this, and make sure children or animals are clear. Put a block of wood on the chassis leg to protect it first.
Once the bolt is loose, remove it, put a big puller on the pulley, and give it a couple of smacks with a club hammer from different directions.
They usually come off.

Hiya Turboman.
The motor is not in the chassis at the moment, but on the garage floor so that’s all going to be a bit tricky, but I like the idea.
Jim

Turboman · May 25, 2021

congo181 said:
Hiya Turboman.
The motor is not in the chassis at the moment, but on the garage floor so that’s all going to be a bit tricky, but I like the idea.
Jim

In that case, you will have to get the tool, or improvise some other means, like a chisel in the ring gear. Best of luck!

congo181 · May 25, 2021

Turboman said:
In that case, you will have to get the tool, or improvise some other means, like a chisel in the ring gear. Best of luck!

Cheers. I have the means to make the tool, so perhaps that’s the best course of action.

congo181 · May 25, 2021

Would it be feasible to make a simple plate and lever to bolt to the flywheel instead of the through hole solution? Much easier fabrication job.

Turboman · May 25, 2021

congo181 said:
Would it be feasible to make a simple plate and lever to bolt to the flywheel instead of the through hole solution? Much easier fabrication job.

You can do, but then, with the engine out, it becomes a matter of what to attach the lever to. But whatever you think will work for you.
The torque on the nut is considerable, can't remember but it will be in the manual. And the nut has probably been in place for years.
It is generally much easier to do these jobs with the engine in place, because then it is securely held on it's mounts, and those on the gearbox, while you heave on the big spanners and sockets.

congo181 · May 25, 2021

Turboman said:
You can do, but then, with the engine out, it becomes a matter of what to attach the lever to. But whatever you think will work for you.
The torque on the nut is considerable, can't remember but it will be in the manual. And the nut has probably been in place for years.
It is generally much easier to do these jobs with the engine in place, because then it is securely held on it's mounts, and those on the gearbox, while you heave on the big spanners and sockets.

congo181 · May 25, 2021

Ha!

I locked the pressure plate against a bell housing stud with a chisel and used a pole on the socket. Now I still need to make the puller for the pulley.
cheers all.

congo181 · May 25, 2021

I’m guessing this is right?

congo181 · May 25, 2021

congo181 said:
I’m guessing this is right?View attachment 239167

Clearly not as that pulley line has to be dead bottom for the internal timing marks to align. ah well, it’s all off now.
Thanks all.

Oil leak from water pump bolt

congo181

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