L322 Oh! No, now what?

Went for a drive today, lovely. All good, smooth, gliding along, then had to brake, gently mind you. Then a clunk was heard from the front, drivers side it sounded like. The brakes worked fine, I did about 60 miles, it was great I must admit. It clunked about about 3 times, so it is intermittent, which is the worst fault you can have. I only noticed as I had the window open, it might have been there all along, but I hadn't heard it before. Have any of you experienced this before, your comments, suggestions would be well appreciated.

Mine developed a clunk last week while on holiday in south Wales which I will be investigating this weekend. I suspect a drop link or track rod end.

Lower control arms or any of the above

Jack the wheel up so it’s off the ground. Grab it and try to wiggle it top/bottom, left/right see if you can hear or feel your clunk or any play

RangeRoller dt said:

Jack the wheel up so it’s off the ground. Grab it and try to wiggle it top/bottom, left/right see if you can hear or feel your clunk or any play

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Thanks for that info, will have a go at the weekend.

backinblack said:

Mine developed a clunk last week while on holiday in south Wales which I will be investigating this weekend. I suspect a drop link or track rod end.

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Let me know how you get on, I am hoping it is something easy to fix.

These were changed last year on the nearside so I suspect something on the offside this time. Top 2 easy enough but bottom one has to be torqued up with wheels on the ground which leaves little room for the torque wrench.
Edit: Second one also need to be torqued with wheels on the ground.

backinblack said:

These were changed last year on the nearside so I suspect something on the offside this time. Top 2 easy enough but bottom one has to be torqued up with wheels on the ground which leaves little room for the torque wrench.
Edit: Second one also need to be torqued with wheels on the ground.
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Measure the height from the hub center to wheel arch while it's sat on the ground , then while in the air before tightening the bolts jack the hub assembly up to the recorded height and then tighten the bolts with the wheel off

Mark Piercy said:

Measure the height from the hub center to wheel arch while it's sat on the ground , then while in the air before tightening the bolts jack the hub assembly up to the recorded height and then tighten the bolts with the wheel off

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Good thinking that man

backinblack said:

These were changed last year on the nearside so I suspect something on the offside this time. Top 2 easy enough but bottom one has to be torqued up with wheels on the ground which leaves little room for the torque wrench.
Edit: Second one also need to be torqued with wheels on the ground.
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Now this is interesting, it failed the MOT on the passenger side lower suspension arms, so I said do both sides and the links as well. Now I am worried

Vogueman said:

Now this is interesting, it failed the MOT on the passenger side lower suspension arms, so I said do both sides and the links as well. Now I am worried

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Could be the track rods but I wouldn't start worrying, chances are it's nothing serious.

backinblack said:

Could be the track rods but I wouldn't start worrying, chances are it's nothing serious.


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That is a relief, that will be a lot easier to do, thanks backinblack

If you're doing yours yourself you will need to get under it and start poking around with a pry bar, unless you're just gonna change everything.

Think I've found my problem

backinblack said:

Think I've found my problem

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Ooer, that's pants then

Mark Piercy said:

Ooer, that's pant then

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Hopefully get the new one tomorrow lunch time and fitted before the rain starts again tomorrow night

backinblack said:

If you're doing yours yourself you will need to get under it and start poking around with a pry bar, unless you're just gonna change everything.

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I had a go this aft, nothing was loose, all the replaced parts from last year still look good, mind you it has only done about 1500 miles in that time.
Checked the brakes, apart from dust and surface rust all seemed ok. I went for a drive and stamped on the brakes, stopped quickly, so ABS is working.
Drove it a few more miles, came off the M1, braked for the roundabout, no clunk, wait a minute, drove a bit further so I could do a few more brake applications
no clunk at all, this is bloody weird, or the hard braking has temporarily fixed it's self. To make sure I will get my indy guy to have look next week.
Your suspension bits looked like mine did last year

Mine is more noticable if you turn left then right, or right then left, or if you hit a bit of a bump while turning, or you drive it like you stole it

Changed the upper suspension arm still knocking, changed drop link and all good. Good job they both needed changing anyway as rubber was perished on both.

backinblack said:

Changed the upper suspension arm still knocking, changed drop link and all good. Good job they both needed changing anyway as rubber was perished on both.

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After I had mine done, there was still this, like rattle on the N/S, only at a slow speed, about 15 to 25 mph, it sounded like something was loose.
It drove me bloody nuts, the indy I go to couldn't find it either. In desperation, I went to a LR specialist, who had been recommended.
I took the mechanic for a test drive so he could hear it,, we hadn't got off the car park, "Turn round I know what it is". It was the lower ball joint
the one that fits in the whole in the wheel hub, mind you it cost £180, the part cost £35. I did query it, he said "Cos, they are a bastard to get out!"