odd gear selection

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Karlos28

Karlos28

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,894
Location
Derbyshire
hi there, i have a 110 td what has 139thou on it, with an annoying gear selection problem i think.

it seems fine most of the time, but sometimes it just wont go into gear, il have to try 3 or 4 times to get it in. it happens when still, getting it into first, getting reverse sometimes. and also while im driving. the worst time is from 2nd to 3rd, it goes in when gearing down most of the time..

the clutch is quite high, but not slipping, dont think that could be the cause tho?

im not sure if its just me not knowing where abouts the gears are yet, or if it actually is difficult to get in!
cheers for any help
karl
 
i had that problem and it turned out to be my clutch slave cylinder check your fluid level and if its low have a look at the pipework and cylinder for leakage
 
no not engaging properly as the piston wasnt fully extending and eventually when it dumped all the fluid i had nowt, fairly simple fix apart from bleeding as the nipple was on the bottom of the slave:rolleyes:, might be wrong but worth a peek
 
ahh so it was slipping all the time? mine does bite, but you might be right, it might just be the early stages. it seems to go in abit better if i jam it in quite fast..?
 
no lol it was not pushing the diaphragm of the clutch far enough to dissengage the clutch making it difficult to get gears especially when sitting still starting from neutral when you are moving the syncro helps, eleviating the symptoms but it was still difficult getting gears at times and had to double clutch sometimes but topping it up kept me going for a while untill the seal completely failed in the slave and i hd to put my hand in the wallet, being scottish it broke my heart:)
 
hahaaa il give it a check and a top up tomoro. my merc has a similar problem as the master cylinder went. itd slowly sink down if i rested my foot on the pedal!
cheers
 
no, separate resevoir i think, best check you have a hydralic clutch first dont want to be sending you on a wild goose chase lol i would say it has generally heavy clutched 4x4s are not mechanical due to the pressure needed to push the cluth lever good luck haha
 
checked the clutch flud and its at a good level, it is horribly black tho! replacing it soon! but i have found the problem! the dreaded GRUB SCREW! what a crap design! basicaly the shift socket is held on to the selector shaft with a grub screw!? which was hanging out, meaning when i moved the gear stick the shaft barely moved! iv tightened it up, but will have to see if it comes loose again, if so il get some super glue or loc tite or something in there aswel.
 
It sounds like your clutch is dragging, so it's sort of disengaging but not enough. This could be putting terrible load on your baulk rings and generally hammer your gearbox.

Either the clutch cover is failing, the hydraulics are not up to it, or the fork is punching through, I would check the hydraulics fully first. Once you are SURE the hydraulics are perfect then start thinking clutch cover.

First thing I would do is check the fluid level and for leaks, then undo the plate on top of the clutch box and ensure the push rod is being engaged almost as soon as you press the pedal (there needs to be a little play to allow for plate wear), you might find that you press the pedal and nothing happens for ages, then it pushes the rod, but by that time there is not enough travel left to fully disengage your clutch.

The ring that the diaphragm spring sits on can break and come out or move, so the diaphragm either can't pivot or parts of won't pivot and you only get partial clutch release (this is why you should always replace the plate and cover when doing the clutch - fork and release bearing too!).

The fork can wear at the pivot point, this means that it's sitting further and further back on the pivot and reduces the overall articulation of the fork which means it cannot push the release bearing in far enough.
 
Last edited:
Karlos28 said:
checked the clutch fluid and its at a good level, it is horribly black tho!
Click to expand...

This can be a sign that the seals in the master are perishing.

Drain it all out via the bleed screw on the slave while someone keeps on topping up the reservoir, this way you don't need to bleed the clutch, keep it running through until it runs clear. Check the master again in a weeks time for more black, if it's back again replace master ASAP.
 
nice one fella. the shift is back to being good-ish (140thou gearbox isnt going to be amazing) but i def need a new clutch, it slips if i boot it from 3rd to 4th. id imagine its the same fluid from new, so yes, il change that at the weekend along with the brake fluid, il get the eze bleed out!. the clutch is bloody heavy, warn fork link?? guna change the lot while the box is out..

how hard is the rear crank oil seal to change? iv got a leaky leaky!
 
Karlos28 said:
nice one fella. the shift is back to being good-ish (140thou gearbox isnt going to be amazing) but i def need a new clutch, it slips if i boot it from 3rd to 4th. id imagine its the same fluid from new, so yes, il change that at the weekend along with the brake fluid, il get the eze bleed out!. the clutch is bloody heavy, warn fork link?? guna change the lot while the box is out..

how hard is the rear crank oil seal to change? iv got a leaky leaky!
Click to expand...

Not a bad job, flywheel bolts is probably the hardest part, and they aren't that hard, spannering, then some care with the new seal and making sure it's all seated properly. Great guides about.

Get an OE or genuine part, the others all seem to fail within hours!
 
better check which one i have bought! haha cheers fella, il have a look about for some guides.

definitely need to change all hydraulic fluids, brake fade is quite bad now!
 
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