O rings tip

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sandyt

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,615
Location
Wraysbury Nr Heathrow
Just a tip for all doing orings I have a bit of trouble with mine as the lpg is slaved off the heater hoses just the other side of the bulk head so every time I move the hoses I am in danger of disturbing the orings so BQ sell a pack of screwdrivers which are 450 mm long so one pozi is the right size to reach and remove the original screw and there is a flat head 4mm which winds in a an allen headed socket screw perfectly all you have to do is release the switch pack and drill a hole in the plastic facia allowing entry for the screw driver and cut the air duct so you can remove it all this is covered on here time to do orings about 45 mins :D
 
Any idea where the quick way post is Sandy?

I've got a weep from mine now. Somebody previous to me has already put a hole in the side panel to access the screw.

I was just wondering how long a screw driver will I need, and where I need to cut the ducting?

Thought I might try and nip the screw up in the meantime while I look for O rings, if it'll be quick.

I've done a search, but there are so many results on this (surprise) I can't find the one I'm looking for!
 
Screw drivers from bq oof all places 450 mm long also if you replace the screw with a hex headed bolt one of the drivers has a 4mm head which fits perfectly if you need any help give me a shout
 
To save getting water/antifreeze mix on the carpet, I clamped the heater hoses under the bonnet and disconnected them, then used my air line to purge the water in the heater matrix.
 
To save getting water/antifreeze mix on the carpet, I clamped the heater hoses under the bonnet and disconnected them, then used my air line to purge the water in the heater matrix.

+1 Did this on mine, worked great.
 
Well I fell at the first hurdle. B&Q didn't have the screwdrivers in stock!

These must be the ones though...?

It's not leaking too badly, I've stuffed a wad of kitchen towel up there to catch the worst of it.

I'll get an o ring kit and screwdrivers and book it in for next weekend, time permitting!
 
Had a bit of an exploratory look at the connector.

Used Stufer's pictures (thank you very much) to get the binnacle and side panels off.

I was able to disconnect and move the centre duct mostly out of the way without having to cut it.

They have been done before because there are neat holes in the plastic to allow access to screws and for screwdrivers etc.

I also have what looks like an 8 or 10mm nut in place of the Pozi No.2 screw. (I have a 450mm long screwdriver for sale if anyone wants one!)

Whoever put it back together didn't connect up the ducting very well. I must have the best ventilated dashboard in the UK!

The important bit though is, I have what looks like silver grey glue, or sealant, or something smeared on the black plastic side of the connector. It could even be that QuickSteel stuff? It's smeared around the bottom pipe to make a collar as it connects to the flange that the pozi screw goes through to hold the joint together. It looks a bit like residue you'd get from a leak, but it isn't. I couldn't get a photo of it I'm afraid either.

My question is, is it possible that the plastic part of the connector has cracked in the past, and been "mended" with sealant or something?? As the thing is plastic, and warms up it must get brittle over time?

I think I'm going to have to cut the centre duct to get a closer look, but I fear mending this weep might involve me removing my dashboard!

And that can wait for summer.
 
Mine was the same think someone used a sealant as well as the orings with the duct cut you can remove it completely and get in to the heater matrix I cleaned mine up with solvent and put new orings on with Vaseline after making sure both surfaces were clean and then you don't have to overtighten the screw
 
Cheers Sandy,

I'll try and have another go this weekend. I didn't start until late yesterday and I didn't want to get it all apart without knowing I could get it all together again.

Do you just use duct tape to connect the cut duct up again?

If I have to get the whole matrix out, can I get the matrix out with the cut duct, or will I have to remove the dash?
 
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