NS tail light and number plate light

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Freddy 007

Gone but not forgotten
Posts
845
Location
Somerset, UK
I have searched... before you whine :p

Defender 90 300tdi 1995

The problem is the NS tail light and number plate light not working.

The bulbs are good.
The earths are good.
All fuses are good.
The manual says they have a joint feed from the fuse box.
I can't find it at the fusebox end, I hear there are connectors along the route.
Does anyone know where they might be located?

Anyone got any bright ideas? I really don't want to run a new feed from the fusebox.

Thanks.
 
I have searched... before you whine :p

Defender 90 300tdi 1995

The problem is the NS tail light and number plate light not working.

The bulbs are good.
The earths are good.
All fuses are good.
The manual says they have a joint feed from the fuse box.
I can't find it at the fusebox end, I hear there are connectors along the route.
Does anyone know where they might be located?

Anyone got any bright ideas? I really don't want to run a new feed from the fusebox.

Thanks.

Check behind the drivers side rear panel, the wire comes out of the chassis into there and then piggy backs onto the NS. wouldnt be surprised if it's come undone there. If it hasnt, you could always piggy back off the working one to the other side.
 
Check behind the drivers side rear panel, the wire comes out of the chassis into there and then piggy backs onto the NS. wouldnt be surprised if it's come undone there. If it hasnt, you could always piggy back off the working one to the other side.

I was thinking of that I just wasn't sure about the loading as according to the diagram both sides are fused separately.
 
Rear wiring joins in behind metal plates inside by rear door

it is
dodgy fusebox if you have glass fuses
wiring loom plug and loom into of side chassis rail ( particularly where it enters or exits)
or rear bullets your find behind stop tail light (sort of cheese wedge shaped on wheel arch and directly behind stop tail light)
or behind rubber flap in wheel arch loom sawn through on body seam.

clean bullets with double tt or similar and gently squeeze multi bullet triangular connectors with pliers if loose.

be aware if bad bullets corrode and drop off and need new crimping on.

are you doing eastnor?
 
Last edited:
Rear wiring joins in behind metal plates inside by rear door

it is
dodgy fusebox if you have glass fuses
wiring loom plug and loom into of side chassis rail ( particularly where it enters or exits)
or rear bullets your find behind stop tail light (sort of cheese wedge shaped on wheel arch and directly behind stop tail light)
or behind rubber flap in wheel arch loom sawn through on body seam.

clean bullets with double tt or similar and gently squeeze multi bullet triangular connectors with pliers if loose.

be aware if bad bullets corrode and drop off and need new crimping on.

are you doing eastnor?

Yes I'll be at Eastnor. I was hoping to sort before then but at this rate it might be a job for the LZ roadside repairs.

I've got blade fuses in the fusebox.

I've got the rear covers off and had a look under the wheel arch flaps but can't see anything that's come adrift. I would like to find the fault rather the just bypass it.
 
lol been tacking my old crap back together, shame your not closer

can't say I'm going to enjoy motorway to eastnor as over 60mph is deafening
 
Those connections in the back are crap, I fitted my towbar wiring and the back lights stopped working, had 12v but still no light, was dirty corroded bullets
 
Well I haven't found the original fault, but I have bodged a feed from the other side for now. I would still like to find the break in the original feed.

thanks for the replys
 
Do you want to break it at the show? except this time I'll help you
 
Here's the result

The fault, cable rubbed through.
DSCF0738_zps752e49d6.jpg


Sum fetelin'
DSCF0741_zps400f2a94.jpg


and the jobs a gudun ;)
 
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