Nothings Ever EASy These Days

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So, are we thinking that the pots (sensors) are not happy and are causing my problems?

To get back to my question about the "O" rings... Does anyone know if I got it wrong (albeit by following how the previous job)??

Like I said, the super slim "O" ring sat beautifully on the base that the valve sits on with the tube sitting snugly on top of it making a perfect seal.

Sliding it down the shaft made for a difficult time sealing it and made no sense after I actually looked at it...

Oh and George is working, but a tiny bit squint... Goes up & down and sits at height all night long o_O
 
Doo said:
So, are we thinking that the pots (sensors) are not happy and are causing my problems?

To get back to my question about the "O" rings... Does anyone know if I got it wrong (albeit by following how the previous job)??

Like I said, the super slim "O" ring sat beautifully on the base that the valve sits on with the tube sitting snugly on top of it making a perfect seal.

Sliding it down the shaft made for a difficult time sealing it and made no sense after I actually looked at it...

Oh and George is working, but a tiny bit squint... Goes up & down and sits at height all night long o_O
Click to expand...

The slim O'Rings on the solenoid body are to seal the solenoids when the bags are being filled. If they are damaged and leaking when the bags are inflated and not being filled you have a leak on the solenoid plunger to valve seat.
 
wammers said:
The slim O'Rings on the solenoid body are to seal the solenoids when the bags are being filled. If they are damaged and leaking when the bags are inflated and not being filled you have a leak on the solenoid plunger to valve seat.
Click to expand...

Yes sir I know, but I am saying I think they were fitted wrong originally (I think the block had been previously overhauled).

I think (perhaps wrongly)the "O" ring in question needs to be seated on the base for the plunger tube as opposed to over the tube & slid down.

I rather think that is what caused my problems after I rebuilt the original valve block...

I need photo's. I'll be back later to see what I can do with fotophuckit o_O
 
Doo said:
Yes sir I know, but I am saying I think they were fitted wrong originally (I think the block had been previously overhauled).

I think (perhaps wrongly)the "O" ring in question needs to be seated on the base for the plunger tube as opposed to over the tube & slid down.

I rather think that is what caused my problems after I rebuilt the original valve block...

I need photo's. I'll be back later to see what I can do with fotophuckit o_O
Click to expand...

There a site called some like Paul's P38A which has good photos of overhauling the valve block.
 
When opened the solenoid should have a small o-ring seated around the base of steel shaft that covers the valve seat and spring.
If this o-ring is hard it will cause a leak path, you can replace the o-ring with a soft one of the same size and it should stop the leak.
The base of the inner solenoid rubber seal may be worn also causing a leak path.
Not sure how you can cure that though if the rubber has worn away at the base :)
 
kurtjohnson10 said:
When opened the solenoid should have a small o-ring seated around the base of steel shaft that covers the valve seat and spring.
If this o-ring is hard it will cause a leak path, you can replace the o-ring with a soft one of the same size and it should stop the leak.
The base of the inner solenoid rubber seal may be worn also causing a leak path.
Not sure how you can cure that though if the rubber has worn away at the base :)
Click to expand...

I'll have to take a pic...
 
kurtjohnson10 said:
When opened the solenoid should have a small o-ring seated around the base of steel shaft that covers the valve seat and spring.
If this o-ring is hard it will cause a leak path, you can replace the o-ring with a soft one of the same size and it should stop the leak.
The base of the inner solenoid rubber seal may be worn also causing a leak path.
Not sure how you can cure that though if the rubber has worn away at the base :)
Click to expand...

The solenoid rubber can be removed refaced and re inserted using small washers to space it out to normal protrusion. Or replaced using suitable diameter nitrile O'ring rubber.
 
It would seem, I got it wrong! I don't mind admitting it, I made a mistake... I took it apart tonight and the "O" ring wasn't happy! So I placed one where it "should" be and all is well.

Well, I'll find out soon as I fit it :p

Had George on the ramp today to grease my nipples...:eek: oooerrr :confused:

We greased all five, UJ's and props so hopefully all will be well for a bit.

Anyway, looked at the sensors, the nuts look well shitey with rust :( However, they don't look past restoring. So am I to believe I can simply unbolt, undo & unplug and swap from left to right? Would I be correct in assuming I would have to invert the sensor??

Any info on switching them will be gratefully accepted :cool:
 
I have a spare valve block and was thinking of resealing it so it is ready if the one in the car fails, is this a wise idea or will the seals age harden.
Who supplies the best seal kits
 
Doo said:
It would seem, I got it wrong! I don't mind admitting it, I made a mistake... I took it apart tonight and the "O" ring wasn't happy! So I placed one where it "should" be and all is well.

Well, I'll find out soon as I fit it :p

Had George on the ramp today to grease my nipples...:eek: oooerrr :confused:

We greased all five, UJ's and props so hopefully all will be well for a bit.

Anyway, looked at the sensors, the nuts look well shitey with rust :( However, they don't look past restoring. So am I to believe I can simply unbolt, undo & unplug and swap from left to right? Would I be correct in assuming I would have to invert the sensor??

Any info on switching them will be gratefully accepted :cool:
Click to expand...
Hey doo, I swapped my front sensors over and tried to do the rears, the rears were so seized that it started to crack the plastic housing, needless to say I only managed to swop the fronts!!! It made some difference... But I do need new sensors....Simply just bolt them back on to the opposite side and reposition the drop link. You then start using a part of the track inside the sensor that has been rarely used. Good luck!:eek:;)
 
I have done another check and it seems the FL sensor "is" playing up. The car cranks down overnight and you can clearly hear the tick tick tick of the valves as they keep up with the obvious loss of air. I have replaced this & that, but still she goes down. Funny though, there is no air loss with the manual valves :rolleyes:

I have put the replacement block back on and it would appear it's either the FL valve in the block at fault (although I replaced the "O" ring) or the actual sensor is reading wrong and forcing the valve to open! But when I clear the fault, it doesn't come back immediately o_O this suggests perhaps a fault part way down the actual sensor... Bugger :(

So, if this is the case, would swapping them help or just move the problem to the opposite side? Bit of a hassle what with all the rusty bolts.

New ones are mental money, 120 quid :eek:

I love this car.... I hate the fact I have to take it miles to my mates ramp which inconveniences him. Bah! o_O
 
Doo said:
I have done another check and it seems the FL sensor "is" playing up. The car cranks down overnight and you can clearly hear the tick tick tick of the valves as they keep up with the obvious loss of air. I have replaced this & that, but still she goes down. Funny though, there is no air loss with the manual valves :rolleyes:

I have put the replacement block back on and it would appear it's either the FL valve in the block at fault (although I replaced the "O" ring) or the actual sensor is reading wrong and forcing the valve to open! But when I clear the fault, it doesn't come back immediately o_O this suggests perhaps a fault part way down the actual sensor... Bugger :(

So, if this is the case, would swapping them help or just move the problem to the opposite side? Bit of a hassle what with all the rusty bolts.

New ones are mental money, 120 quid :eek:

I love this car.... I hate the fact I have to take it miles to my mates ramp which inconveniences him. Bah! o_O
Click to expand...

ECU should only wake up to level every six hours. If no drop with manual valve then the leak must be before the manual valve, connection to block or block itself.
 
You could try pulling the delay relay under the seat ,that will stop the car self level and if it still goes down its a leak:eek:mind put relay back in be four plugging in laptop in to eas or it wont connect right:rolleyes:....:D
 
Last edited:
dubbleRR said:
You could try pulling the delay relay under the seat ,that will stop the car self level and if it still goes down its a leek:eek:mind put relay back in be four plugging in laptop in to eas or it wont connect right:rolleyes:....:D
Click to expand...

Where about's would this leek be and have you any cooking instructions? ;);):D
 
dubbleRR said:
You could try pulling the delay relay under the seat ,that will stop the car self level and if it still goes down its a leek:eek:mind put relay back in be four plugging in laptop in to eas or it wont connect right:rolleyes:....:D
Click to expand...

Pulled the relay and down she went on the front left. Traced it to a problem with the pipe which had a deep scratch on it. I cut it & put a joining section on, but I think it's still leaking at the insert to the block so I'll put the original back on. I swapped the block over as my original pump vibrates like it's thrown a prop blade :eek: but apart from that, my original block doesn't seem to drop at all.

It's all hilarious really :D Put her back up yesterday, reinserted the relay and now she's pissed only on the left! Front & rear are almost all the way down, yet the right although down, not nearly as much.... I blame that dubble RR bloke and his vegetables :p
 
Swapped out my original block but replacement compressor. Reset the system using my laptop and she's working beautifully. The other block wouldn't allow the car to lower using the up/down switch. I tried to lower but she sat unmoving even though the lights flashed... So I'm guessing the block is faulty? As said, my original works fine. But I'll be checking in the morning.

So what would cause a block to lower when all the "o" rings are perfect and there are no leaks showing?
 
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