No power to switch pack and difficult to start

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hi. I'm near Malmesbury in Wiltshire and have owned my 1997 P38 2.5 DSE for 4 years. I've had all the usual problems which I've managed to sort out using this forum, so thanks everyone. However, I've got a couple of problems I can't get to the bottom of at the moment. They may be related or not.

First is a problem starting on cold. It takes ages to start, if at all, but once it goes it is fine. I've got a battery on it that is under warranty but have been informed that the alternator is pumping too much power into the battery and is damaging it so that it won't hold full charge. I can start the car if I charge the battery but, even though the battery seems to be whizzing the starter over well, it takes forever to start. Is there anything that can be done to fix the alternator? Is it controlled from elsewhere or does it just need replacing along with the battery? I'm not entirely sure the battery is the problem but I've replaced the glowplugs and leak off pipes and it was starting first turn of the key.

The next problem is that there seems to be no power getting to the switch pack on the cubby box (no windows, sunroof, mirrors etc). It keeps pinging the messages to reset the windows as I disconnected the battery but I can't because they won't work. I have disconnected the battery a couple of times with no luck. It stopped working after I used a boost on the battery charger to start the engine. All fuses seem OK but is there a fuse or relay controlling power to the switch pack please? The switch illumination lights work. There are several threads on this that seem to be conflicting. One says there is a relay but doesn't say which one.

My local main dealer suggests it is the BECM that has gone but I want to check cheaper things first as I suspect that a new BECM will cost more than the value of the car.

I would also mention that I left the drivers window open and sunroof on tilt when it rained about a month ago. The drivers carpet is damp. I have looked under there and there appears to be no broken or corroded wires. It has worked fine after the rain and it seems to much of a coincidence that the windows etc don't work after the boost start.

Any help would be appreciated. I love this vehicle as it is brilliant at towing and can't afford to replace it.

Cheers. John
 
Switch pack is damp and or corroded following your rain incident no doubt....time to strip it out and clean it up.

Dry out the carpets before the moisture infects the BeCM causing you major grief...although a call to Rik-the-pick (CallRova) in brighton will be much cheaperthan a replacement BeCM

As for the Alternator - measure the charge voltage it should be 13.9 or so at idle rising to 14.2-4 at around 2k rpm....I would say your starting issue is possibly Glow Plug related!
 
Thanks both. I'll try to locate a replacement switch pack although it is such a coincidence that it stopped working when I boost started the car. I'm thinking that something must have burnt out. I'll try one thing at a time. I'll check which alternator I've got when it stops raining!! Chucking it down here at the moment. Cheers. John
 
Thanks both. I'll try to locate a replacement switch pack although it is such a coincidence that it stopped working when I boost started the car. I'm thinking that something must have burnt out. I'll try one thing at a time. I'll check which alternator I've got when it stops raining!! Chucking it down here at the moment. Cheers. John

Power for switch pack comes from fuse 1 under seat. But it also powers lots of other things so it will hardly be a blown fuse. Check for power, 12 volts to pin one on plug.
 
Hi. I'm near Malmesbury in Wiltshire and have owned my 1997 P38 2.5 DSE for 4 years. I've had all the usual problems which I've managed to sort out using this forum, so thanks everyone. However, I've got a couple of problems I can't get to the bottom of at the moment. They may be related or not.

First is a problem starting on cold. It takes ages to start, if at all, but once it goes it is fine. I've got a battery on it that is under warranty but have been informed that the alternator is pumping too much power into the battery and is damaging it so that it won't hold full charge. I can start the car if I charge the battery but, even though the battery seems to be whizzing the starter over well, it takes forever to start. Is there anything that can be done to fix the alternator? Is it controlled from elsewhere or does it just need replacing along with the battery? I'm not entirely sure the battery is the problem but I've replaced the glowplugs and leak off pipes and it was starting first turn of the key.

Cheapo glowplugs never last long, fit OEM, Delphi, bosch, NGK, Beru etc.

The next problem is that there seems to be no power getting to the switch pack on the cubby box (no windows, sunroof, mirrors etc). It keeps pinging the messages to reset the windows as I disconnected the battery but I can't because they won't work. I have disconnected the battery a couple of times with no luck. It stopped working after I used a boost on the battery charger to start the engine. All fuses seem OK but is there a fuse or relay controlling power to the switch pack please? The switch illumination lights work. There are several threads on this that seem to be conflicting. One says there is a relay but doesn't say which one.

As others said, most likely switch pack

My local main dealer suggests it is the BECM that has gone but I want to check cheaper things first as I suspect that a new BECM will cost more than the value of the car.

Nothing in your post to suggest the BECM is at fault, dealer is after your cash.

I would also mention that I left the drivers window open and sunroof on tilt when it rained about a month ago. The drivers carpet is damp. I have looked under there and there appears to be no broken or corroded wires. It has worked fine after the rain and it seems to much of a coincidence that the windows etc don't work after the boost start.

Any help would be appreciated. I love this vehicle as it is brilliant at towing and can't afford to replace it.

Cheers. John

Stick a dehumidifier in it for 24 hours, the BECM doesn't like dampness.
 
Remove the connector from the back of the centre console switch pack and check that with the ignition on there is ~12v on the power feed which comes from the becm. The illumination also comes from the becm, but on a separate feed wire. Dry everything out as suggested by the other guys.
Ref your thoughts on the problem ocurring after a boost start, I seem to remember a bulletin coming out in 1995/6 warning about boost starting this vehicle. The reason being that when the boost charger is switched off (whilst still connected to the vehicle), it tries to zap the vehicle with several hundred volts as the magnetic field in boost charger collapses. The better quality boost chargers have a voltage spike suppressor circuit to prevent this high voltage getting to the vehicle. The cheaper ones don't have adequate suppression and can damage the electronics on the vehicle, particularly if your battery terminals are loose (preventing tha battery from soaking up this voltage spike).
 
Back
Top