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glasgowkiss

glasgowkiss

Active Member
Posts
144
Location
Glasgow
Hello chappies!!!

It's been a while since I poluted this website with my woes, but I'm pleased to say that whilst recovering my beloved from a snowy ditch outside Drymen today, I managed to bugger up something in the gear box. So I'm back to ask for your help once again. :)

Low range 4 and High range 4 and High range 2 all work, however once reverse is engaged, it won't move an inch!

Had it refused to move at all, I would assume that I'd fecked up part of the drive shafts/ UJ somewhere along the line. But it seems that only reverse gear is affected. I was rocking the car between 1st and reverse when I heard a louder than normal crunch and thats when reverse packed in. :doh:

So my question is this: how hard is it to get the gearbox out, is it a huge job (I have no garage you see just a car park where the residents cars live) what do you think I've done? Should I look for a new(er) gearbox or attempt a repair? :confused:

As always your thoughts and opinions will be helpful.

Cheers

Ken
 
think it would be silly to look for a replacement already, replacement is gonna mean taking the gearbox out and then you may as well have a look, thats what id do any way, more than likely they problem will jump out at you as you open it. Is a bit of a mission as the seat box and all would have to come out, but same work as fitting a new one. I think the best thing you could do is to get a workshop manual, take the seat and all that out, then you would need a lift or lots of friends to take the gearbox out and move in side, then open her up and see. Think the hardest part of these jobs is motivating yourself to just give it try. If you willing to spend the cash on a replacement , then there is no harm in just giving it a try before going that route.
Not gonna try guess whats wrong but with all forward gears working I would think that the damage it most likely limited and probably not a big operation.
 
I would first remove tunnel cover and maks sure it is not just a selector problem. It can snag up a bit...mine once did, .. I cleaned it and adjusted it up it was OK. Check the manual for details.

I wouldn't really like to remove a gearbox in the street, especially in this weather. You have to take it out of the passenger door. Worst bit can be removing the seat box if its all rusted up.

Steve
 
Last edited:
Does the box lock up in reverse or is there just no drive in reverse? Definitely check the selector mechanism if there is no drive. I suppose it could be a selector fork problem. It's likely to be a problem with the reverse idler, which will mean taking the gearbox out. Unless you want to risk back injury then an engine hoist or something will be needed to get the box out. The box is simple and will probably be relatively easy and cheap to repair yourself, but it'll probably take a few days to do the whole job. Not nice working outdoors in this weather!
 
Hi Guys

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions. I'm currently musing the idea of picking up another box from ebay or the likes and just doing a swap for easiness. But as I say I am only thinking about this as I only have a hut with no work bench currently and working space is difficult (so are finding funds at the moment!).

Fenby to answer your question in particular, when I select reverse it engages with the usual acknowledgement slight jolt, click, crunch kinda thing. It's when you lift your foot off the clutch it either makes no noise, or if it does it's a noise that lets you know that the gears are trying to connect, (as if you hadn't quite got it into gear properly) but with either noise the result is the same no movement.

If I were to find or pick up a replacement box, do all series boxes fit a series III, for instance is the 109, or 6 cylinder, or series I,II, IIA fit etc work?

Cheers

Ken
 
No, not all gearboxes are interchangeable.

I was advised that they were when I changed my 2a for a 3. At first sight they look the same but they are not...

Clutch mechanism is on different side of bell housing for starters.

I had to do some reworking to make it fit. Can be done if you have decent garage facilities but in your case I would not recomend it. If you do a swap it is definitely best to do a like for like.

Also if you go back to an earlier box you will not have synchromesh on 1st and second gears. No point in going backwards...
 
If you go for a replacement box I'd undo the drain plugs and look for broken teeth, bearings and other debris, before handing over any cash. Series gearboxes are often in a bad state. If you've got the means of removing the box, somewhere to work on it, a bit of patience and some mechanical knowledge then I'd highly recommend pulling your gearbox to bits, replacing the broken/worn bits and replace all the seals, especially if the synchromeshes on your box are working well and there are no other nasty noises. You might just be able to do all this for under £50 and you'll end up with a box that should last for years, instead of possibly having to do the job all over again in a few months because of a dodgy secondhand box.
 
Steve Ashworth said:
No, not all gearboxes are interchangeable.

I was advised that they were when I changed my 2a for a 3. At first sight they look the same but they are not...

Clutch mechanism is on different side of bell housing for starters.

I had to do some reworking to make it fit. Can be done if you have decent garage facilities but in your case I would not recomend it. If you do a swap it is definitely best to do a like for like.

Also if you go back to an earlier box you will not have synchromesh on 1st and second gears. No point in going backwards...
Click to expand...

despite the lack of mesh the 2a boxes are well sought after as an "upgrade" for S3s simply due to their robustness - so despite of the messing that has to be done with the bell housing/slave and main shaft it's a good route to take
 
Beware of S11 boxes. Especially earlier ones, can't remember off hand the suffix change.

They are not that robust in my opinion. On later boxes the shaft sizes were increased to overcome inherent weaknesses. Having stripped down both S11a and S3 I can confirm that this is a matter of fact.

If you are used to a S3 you will probably be disapointed with a S11. It is not worth the extra hassle of making it backward compatible.

I put a S3 in place of my S11a and it is so much better to drive. It was worth the hassle.

Steve
 
Hi guys,

I'm always well informed by the advice on this forum, and will always be eternally grateful that I found it! :)

Again, in this case, I'm profoundly impressed by the knowledge of you all. :cool:

What I think I'll do is get my arse in gear (good pun, eh?) build the work bench in my shed that I've been meaning to do since May last year, then work on the box. I have other transport obviously (a 92 Merc 300D that runs on diesel and veg oil), so I'm not stuck for transport.

You've almost convinced me that my years of meccano building as a boy will prove useful. So I'll give it a go!

Ken

PS if you think of anything else, then let me know!
 
I think you have sheared 5th gear off the shaft, if it sits on the end, it will possibly have a bearing between it and the rest of the gears allowing it to shear off and leave you with forward gears!

I am about to fit a new gearbox to my 90 about 17 miles from you and hell, I think I might be insane, it was -8 last night, I am going to keep all my tools by the fire the night before I start work!
 
discomania said:
I think you have sheared 5th gear off the shaft, if it sits on the end, it will possibly have a bearing between it and the rest of the gears allowing it to shear off and leave you with forward gears!

I am about to fit a new gearbox to my 90 about 17 miles from you and hell, I think I might be insane, it was -8 last night, I am going to keep all my tools by the fire the night before I start work!
Click to expand...

5th ?
 
nice pic of a 2a GB, might help someone visualize

SeriesGearbox.jpg
 
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