No go !!!

i read on the forum that the gearboxes in the 90/11-/disco all suffer from mainshaft wear and it's usually indicated by a clunk when the clutch is released and if this in ignored one day you'll release the clutch and you'll have no drive !

unfortunatly i used to have a clunk but today i reversed the 90 up the drive to get my motorbike out and it's not going anywhere. no forward drive, rearward drive, nothing.

so what alternatives do i have ?

can the boxes be rebuilt?

where do i start looking for a 2nd hand box ?

does it make more sense to buy a reconditioned box and if so where can one of these be sourced ?

owning a landy hasn't been great for my and the 50 miles i've driven it have been 50 miles of hassle, i hope once i get this sorted thats the last of my bad luck.

any help is appreciated guys.

check out ashcroft transmissions they will take your old one in and give you a recon one they are very good quality and reasonable.

Royster81 said:

i read on the forum that the gearboxes in the 90/11-/disco all suffer from mainshaft wear and it's usually indicated by a clunk when the clutch is released and if this in ignored one day you'll release the clutch and you'll have no drive !

unfortunatly i used to have a clunk but today i reversed the 90 up the drive to get my motorbike out and it's not going anywhere. no forward drive, rearward drive, nothing.

so what alternatives do i have ?

can the boxes be rebuilt?

where do i start looking for a 2nd hand box ?

does it make more sense to buy a reconditioned box and if so where can one of these be sourced ?

owning a landy hasn't been great for my and the 50 miles i've driven it have been 50 miles of hassle, i hope once i get this sorted thats the last of my bad luck.

any help is appreciated guys.

Click to expand...

stoopid question have you checked it hasnt jumped out of high on the transfer box

baggyjim said:

stoopid question have you checked it hasnt jumped out of high on the transfer box

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or that a half shaft hasn't snapped or that a drive member flange has stripped it's splines?

Try it in diff lock (or get somebody to have a look under it and see if anything is turning - if a 1/2 shaft/CV has gone then one of the two prop shafts will be turning, and the other will not. if you put it into diff lock then it will move (in 2 wheel drive).

If this does not help and it is in H or L then take the cover off the end of the transfer box (remove the cover under the middle seat/cubby box, to get to it, and take the 8 (maybe 10) bolts out that hold the end plate on (circular). Inside you will find your transfer input gear sitting on the output shaft from the main box - pull this out - should come out easily if all is well. This output shaft from the main box is the one that will have gone if any has. If the splines are nolonger there then thats your problem. - Sometimes you can get away for a bit by getting a longer input gear which reaches onto the bit of the shaft that is not worn. (You could then if you were that way inclined flog it onto somebody else +/- tell them about this)

You can not easily replace the output shaft - the main box needs to come out, and be stripped down.

I have that "clunk" when I release the clutch on my 1993 90 200tdi.

What checks should I make to try to identify the cause of this? And what can I do to prevent major failure?

I have got used to driving it carefully and the clunk is not evident if I am careful with the clutch, but if I drop it quickly it clunks at the end of every gear change?

Any thoughts that can help me?

thanks

i also had a clunk when depressing or releasing the clutch, i changed the bushes on rear arms and a- frame and the a-frame balljoint, clunk has now gone.

johnlad said:

i also had a clunk when depressing or releasing the clutch, i changed the bushes on rear arms and a- frame and the a-frame balljoint, clunk has now gone.

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I think I might try this, did you change the whole frame? or just the bushes and the balljoint?

Is it a big job?

hi Johnny, i stripped the a-frame from the car, 2 big bolts connect it to the chassis you need a 30mm spanner and 30mm socket with a long breaker bar as they are tight[tw-ts] the other end is the ball joint, use 30mm socket on top of rear diff.Once off i took mine to a local garage to have the old bushes and balljoint pressed out and new ball joint pressed in, it cost £20. I then fitted poly bushes there dead easy to do by hand and bolted it all back together, so easy i changed all of them on the car the differene is outstanding, everything feels tighter, i hope this helps its not hard to do.

johnnyoxford said:

I think I might try this, did you change the whole frame? or just the bushes and the balljoint?

Is it a big job?

Click to expand...

johnlad said:

hi Johnny, i stripped the a-frame from the car, 2 big bolts connect it to the chassis you need a 30mm spanner and 30mm socket with a long breaker bar as they are tight[tw-ts] the other end is the ball joint, use 30mm socket on top of rear diff.Once off i took mine to a local garage to have the old bushes and balljoint pressed out and new ball joint pressed in, it cost £20. I then fitted poly bushes there dead easy to do by hand and bolted it all back together, so easy i changed all of them on the car the differene is outstanding, everything feels tighter, i hope this helps its not hard to do.

Click to expand...

This might help a bit...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/upper-link-frame-bushes-renewal-65602.html