Nigling EAS Problem and exhaust story.

My P38 has been a dream until recently but I have had it for 5 years without any major issues. I have a full stainless system on with the 4 sports outlets on the back.
Was in France last year when there was a loud bang and the suspension went on the stumps.
The exhaust had split over the rear axle and melted the rear suspension pipe.
No one could fix the split in France so came home on a lorry.
Anyway the full stainless system with a lifetime warranty was not all stainless. The flanges were mild steel and had rotted. Rang the exhaust manufacturer up who instantly wanted to see my receipt which I had to there disapointment.
Sent it off and they replaced it with stainless flanges the tight arse robbing lying bandits . I paid £550 for a 100% stainless kit and got a 80% stainless where you can see AND MILD STEEL IN THE IMPORTANT PLACES.
The pipe was replaced but the suspension has started to play up. I have the suspension reset tool so had to reset a few times. Replaced the ecu in the EAS box, but still has the same problem.
When driving slowly or in slow traffic it raises to the highest setting. Left alone and when gathering speed it drops to normal height but takes its time about it. Stationary pressing the height switch it goes up quickly but goes down at a snails pace.
As I've said I've replaced the ecu and no air leaks as the car is never on its stumps even after a week so can someone point me in the right direction on this one as its driving me crazy.

When you say you've replaced the ECU in The EAS box are you talking about the drive pack (which BTW is not the ECU, the ECU is under the passenger seat)?

If so, did you replace with a new one or one from ebay?

Also the type of leak you describe should have no effect whatsoever on the rest of the system so you should not have had to replace anything but the melted bit of pipe.
In all probability if you're after 5 years trouble free with the EAS then its likely that the initial faulting out is incidental and due to a worn compressor. The subsequent faulting smacks of a dodgy drive pack, if you got the replacement off ebay then definitely!

yes replaced the drive pack. Cars done 120k but why go up so quik and down so slow ?
Surely if it was the compressor it would take ages to get up

The diaphragm in the valve block takes care of inlet/exhausting shuttling, maybe that is shot?

A new seal kit for the valve block is cheap to buy, as is the diaphragm, and whilst I don't hold out much hope, a rebuild may cure your problems.

Willos said:

yes replaced the drive pack. Cars done 120k but why go up so quik and down so slow ?
Surely if it was the compressor it would take ages to get up

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Whats important is whether it was a new drive pack or a used drive pack. The drive pack is the source of a number of hard to pin down problems. Many frustrated owners have chosen to rip out the EAS and change to springs to beat the problem.

What do you think happens to the components they rip out? Drive packs go for €120 on ebay, valve blocks €200, compressors €150. If you had just spent £1,000 on a coil conversion you'd def want to claw back anything you can.

I can guarantee that a large percentage of EAS items coming up on ebay are F**ked. The same goes for HEVAC control panels.

So just let us know if it was a new one or a fleabay one - although breakers yard would not be a whole lot better.

As regards the compressor, it's your reservoir that fills the bags, the compressor fills the reservoir through a non return valve so will only fill direct to the bags if the reservoir is empty. Thats why you are always advised to let the car run a few minutes in the morning with a door open (EAS disabled) if your Compressor is starting to exhibit signs of wear. Depending on the type of journeys you make and the way you use the EAS you could feasibly be finishing every journey with a full tank of air even with a worn compressor. This will mean that the car will always rise quickly when you start it up. Its short journeys with multiple height changes that will cause problems for the compressor.

As i said above the initial fault you reported should not have warranted a drive pack change. I would put back in the original and see what way it behaves.

I would put the original back in but is the same fault. The driver came from a scrapper.
Pump is start and stopping so must be ok.

Willos said:

I would put the original back in but is the same fault. The driver came from a scrapper.
Pump is start and stopping so must be ok.

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Was it doing what you describe before you changed the driver? Thats important from a fault finding point of view.

BTW just cause the pump is running in no way proves the drive pack is ok, these are devious little b*stards when they go wrong. But if it was doing the same thing on the previous drivepack thats different. It may be a sticking exhaust valve but uncommanded height changes are one clear symtom of a failing drivepack,

Like I said previously there is a good reason used ones come up in breakers yard and ebay and many are bust.

Found a p38 at a scrappers whos the owner is not all there. Gave me some parts off volvo at silly prices and refuses to do mail order or take parts off. So Off to Get a tow bar for £30 and maybe the eas box .

Get the spare EAS a box at any price, its great to have a complete spare unit,

Willos said:

yes replaced the drive pack. Cars done 120k but why go up so quik and down so slow ?
Surely if it was the compressor it would take ages to get up

Click to expand...

hi
have you tried changing the valve block exhaust filter
its screwed to the valve block just behind the four colour coded pipes that supply each air spring
it cured my slow lowering problem

ta will give that a go