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flosspike

New Member
Posts
6
Location
Wales
Hi Folks,
Name's Nick, just bought my first 90 defender, 26 years old and in pretty good shape. She's had the original engine replaced with a 300Tdi unit from a Disco, everything was good when picked up but during the 160 mile return journey a whining noise started to grow and is now very loud. 45mph seems to peak with a clear feeling through the seat. I'm reluctant to drive her much in this condition. There's no clunking or clicking just whine under power and associated with speed. I think it's related to prop shaft speed.. Anyway, this is what I've done so far. Spun up the TB input shaft in 5th with the TB in Neutral, no real noise, just lots of whirring noises. Put rear axle on stands and did the same, yeah, lots of whirring noise, more so than former test but not massively worrying. I've checked all the levels, front diff was slightly low and TB's oil was brown and there was some metal splinters on drain plug magnet. Changed oil regardless and topped up the front diff. The noise under power is just as loud. I've heard about removing either front/rear prop shaft and taking it for a spin locked to test either front or rear diff, that a good idea? I'm not talking about thrashing it, it's just a gentle test at 40mph...

I've also got an issue with the drum hand brake, no hold whatsoever except if I adjust the drum using a 11mm spanner. It'll hold then!. It's like the cable has stretched. I thought I'd found the issue when I found the rear bracket of the hand brake was bent effectively shortening the cable. The adjust on the other end is on it's limit. Cable looks newish and as yet I've not taken a look inside the drum's mechanics..

Any suggestions to narrow down the transmission noise most appreciated, I have other issues but the missus can't go for a ride just yet until the transmission is quiet!!
 
Could your whining noise be related to a stuck plate or rubbing in the drum brake? Welcome. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
 
Possibly, my gut feeling says the sound is associated with gears, might be wrong but I'm thinking stuffed bearing and incorrectly meshed gears. Need to check the MB oil - just in case, I'd assumed the fact it changes gears fine meant there's oil inside it. But then my gut feeling said there was no oil in the TB box and yet there was..!
 
To add to this thread and maybe give better details, I've just checked the drive chain, front and rear diff I'd say less than 1/16th turn, the front drive shaft was on backwards, I believe the slider should be TB end, the TB nut looks lovely and clean compared the the diff side. With TB unlocked there's probably still about 1/16th turn, certainly less than Landrover ToolBox's video on very same subject. I'm thinking now that the pinion gear bearing has failed, not enough to create large slack but more than enough for whining noise. So, the front drive shaft remains off and later I will take her for a small gentle test drive with the TB locked, no noise = front diff, noise = keep searching.
 
Pinion gears are expensive. Not sure on availability either. Maybe try ebay or a salvage yard for a secondhand.
 
Aha, well I did say I was a newbie, I've learned few things since then. Defo front diff, play in flange and leaking oil, will try and undo those 5-6 bolts/wheel, remove everything, don't fancy stripping the hub assemblies, yank half shafts out and replace the pinion bearing and oil seal. However, I have had success with the transmission brake which in December was good enough for a MOT but point blank refused to hold the landy a month later on the slightest of slopes. So, before I did anything I got a new cable and shoes. Took rear prop off, drum off and found one spring tangling, The expander wasn't siezed but looked like it needed a clean. Did that and lubed it up, lobbed it back together, adjusted up, still wouldn't hold. Back off again this morning and here's what I should have done. The expander once assembled/lubed up should retract with finger pressure on both expanders, the plunger should move freely in/out. Mine does now I filed the operating / roller bearing surfaces flat. At some stage the roller bearing became 90deg out of true and scored a line on these surfaces so filing it flat stopped it binding. I also noticed the difference in cable adjustment, whereas it was adjusted to the end of the cable now it's somewhere nearer the middle. The cable adjuster is purely to align up the holes in the clevis and the plunger arm.
 
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