New slave and master with clutch change?

Do people usually change slave and master cylinders when they change the clutch?

I guess it is easier as I will only need to bleed the clutch once. It is just more money that I will have to spend though...

If its not leaking no need to touch it, but on the other hand new parts are cheap and its not a big job, colour of your clutch fluid is a good indicator, black is the seals breaking down

lynall said:

If its not leaking no need to touch it, but on the other hand new parts are cheap and its not a big job, colour of your clutch fluid is a good indicator, black is the seals breaking down

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I can't remember what colour the fluid was, it's in bits.

I'm thinking I prob will change them, it's just more money to spend

Been getting qoutes from Local garages to change mine.
Most just say change clutch with bearing.
One garage does the full kit including HD fork, HD release bearing, New push rod,
New slave cylinder, and New crankshaft oil seal gasket for round aabout the same prices ive been getting for just the clutch. makes sense realy to change all these while they have the engine ect in bits.

Easy to change and the ones I bought were relatively cheap. Probably worth doing them with the clutch

I would replace them both i have just replaced both of mine ( leaking slave cylinder ) it is always best to replace both master and slave cylinder's together as both cylinder's will operate and ware in the same place all the time but if they have aged and the system needs bleeding for any reason the cylinders will have a build up of rust if a steel cylinder or oxidization if an ally cylinder at the bottom of either cylinder that's not been changed so when you go to bleed the system the seals will get damaged being pushed into the crud and although may not leak straight away will do later so really is best

Ok, thanks for all of the help everyone, will order a pair from LR direct when I get paid.

why would it push into the crud?? when I bled mine a the weekend I just opened the nipple and kept filling the tank till it was running out clean

SteNova said:

why would it push into the crud?? when I bled mine a the weekend I just opened the nipple and kept filling the tank till it was running out clean

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Thats how I bled my 90 and the s2 was just the same, I think I needed a pump or two to get the last little bit of air out.

If the cylinders have aged the rust / oxidization will eat into the metal cylinder and as the seals rub over the rust / oxidization it rip's the seals, if you have an old master / slave cylinder nocking about strip it and have a look if i remember at the weekend i will have a look at my old one and take pic's if i still have them.

as i say its mainly old cylinders that will have this that have been on for at least a couple of years

Yes I understand that but I did have to push the pedal so it never went into the crud

SteNova said:

Yes I understand that but I did have to push the pedal so it never went into the crud

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Yeah the seal will only go over the rough bit till the system starts building up pressure then will operate in the normal ware point again but if any damage has been done to the seals when it was first being bled it may show up later but may not just depends