New project planning... some months off tho!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
T

TVS

Guest
I've thought about modifying my current run around but considering what I'm
after, it would be much easier to start from scratch and do it properly.
But, I've got to be careful with the old points system as I don't want a Q
plate! Also I need something to... well... run around in at the moment ;)

The brief - to build an economical, comfortable, daily use Series 2A
landrover which should also be suitable for trailing, off road work, towing
heavy trailers

I'm very lucky to have a low mileage 300Tdi to use, a 2A SWB to rebuild and
I've got loads of rangerover/90 suspension parts and axles kicking about.
Looking at the points system - I know I need to keep 8 with the chassis
worth 5 points and axles, suspension, steering (?) and gearbox 2 points.
Engine being one point. But how strict is, say, the axles being original??
Can I use the original axle tubes and fit 90 disk braked, CV jointed hubs at
each end and still keep the two points? I could then fabricate my own coil
spring suspension mounts and hey presto. Yes, I know about half shaft
problems, that there narrower, space for spring seats ect ect!

This is just one posible plan:
Chassis - Modified original 2A chassis, galvanised. - 5 points.
Engine - 300Tdi
Gearbox - Possibly LT77 but using a series transferbox. Have heard of a kit
to do this. Anybody know anymore about this?
Suspension - RR/90 arms. Coil spring probably 90/RR type, possibly coil over
damper.
Axles - Original with disk braked, CV jointed hubs. Original diffs. - 2
points?
Steering - Original possibly with powered steering add on ram? - 2 points.
Total 9 points.

This project is to get rid off all the parts and other projects I've got
around the place and end up with one nice landy that I'll keep for the
foreseeable future!

Looking forward to some developing this idea some more... Thanks! Toby


 
"TVS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've thought about modifying my current run around but considering what
> I'm
> after, it would be much easier to start from scratch and do it properly.
> But, I've got to be careful with the old points system as I don't want a Q
> plate! Also I need something to... well... run around in at the moment ;)


In my learned experience..... buy one thats done, flog the spares on ebay.

Thats shortened the project time by about 3 years (lee time) and slashed the
budget and burns.

:0)

Of course theres absolutely no fun in this....

Lee D


 
> > I've thought about modifying my current run around but considering what
> > I'm
> > after, it would be much easier to start from scratch and do it properly.
> > But, I've got to be careful with the old points system as I don't want a

Q
> > plate! Also I need something to... well... run around in at the moment

;)
>
> In my learned experience..... buy one thats done, flog the spares on ebay.
>
> Thats shortened the project time by about 3 years (lee time) and slashed

the
> budget and burns.
>
> :0)
>
> Of course theres absolutely no fun in this....


Well.. even if it takes a few years... besides which I really must do some
work to my MG befor the summer!
Oh, the galvanising pepol in Stoke reconed it would sort of be in the £75
reagon for the chassis :D
Thanks, Toby


 
On Tue, 1 Feb 2005 23:23:32 -0000, "TVS" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I've thought about modifying my current run around but considering what I'm
>after, it would be much easier to start from scratch and do it properly.
>But, I've got to be careful with the old points system as I don't want a Q
>plate! Also I need something to... well... run around in at the moment ;)
>
>The brief - to build an economical, comfortable, daily use Series 2A
>landrover which should also be suitable for trailing, off road work, towing
>heavy trailers
>
>I'm very lucky to have a low mileage 300Tdi to use, a 2A SWB to rebuild and
>I've got loads of rangerover/90 suspension parts and axles kicking about.
>Looking at the points system - I know I need to keep 8 with the chassis
>worth 5 points and axles, suspension, steering (?) and gearbox 2 points.
>Engine being one point. But how strict is, say, the axles being original??
>Can I use the original axle tubes and fit 90 disk braked, CV jointed hubs at
>each end and still keep the two points? I could then fabricate my own coil
>spring suspension mounts and hey presto. Yes, I know about half shaft
>problems, that there narrower, space for spring seats ect ect!
>
>This is just one posible plan:
>Chassis - Modified original 2A chassis, galvanised. - 5 points.


If you modify the chassis, ie for a coil conversion, I don't think it
will count towards the points, as it is considered a structural
modification.

Alex
 
On Wed, 2 Feb 2005 11:26:35 -0000, "TVS" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Well.. even if it takes a few years... besides which I really must do some
>work to my MG befor the summer!
>Oh, the galvanising pepol in Stoke reconed it would sort of be in the £75
>reagon for the chassis :D
>Thanks, Toby


That sounds like a very resonable price. do they do all the cleaning
for you in that too?

 


> >This is just one posible plan:
> >Chassis - Modified original 2A chassis, galvanised. - 5 points.

>
> If you modify the chassis, ie for a coil conversion, I don't think it
> will count towards the points, as it is considered a structural
> modification.



Humm.. but its still the origional chassis tho. I'm not going to be cutting
anything off it.. just welding some new brackets on. I think the bit I'd
strugel to get away with is the axles! But if I kept the 2A gearbox then I
could use 90 axles. Nothing is ever easy!
Thanks! Toby


 

"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 2 Feb 2005 11:26:35 -0000, "TVS" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Well.. even if it takes a few years... besides which I really must do

some
> >work to my MG befor the summer!
> >Oh, the galvanising pepol in Stoke reconed it would sort of be in the £75
> >reagon for the chassis :D
> >Thanks, Toby

>
> That sounds like a very resonable price. do they do all the cleaning
> for you in that too?
>

as far as I know... the bloke wasn't overly helpfull to be honest. Kept
saying they'd need to weight the chassis to know how much it would cost.
Seemed to be asking sombody else in the room and asking me to hold on a sec.
But it gives a guide price anyway... least its not in the hundreds. Toby


 
TVS wrote:

> as far as I know... the bloke wasn't overly helpfull to be honest. Kept
> saying they'd need to weight the chassis to know how much it would cost.
> Seemed to be asking sombody else in the room and asking me to hold on a
> sec. But it gives a guide price anyway... least its not in the hundreds.


£75 seems way underpriced for cleaning and galving a chassis. On the "A 4x4
is born" DVD they are ripped off with theirs (£600?!).

For a £75 galv job on a chassis I would something like a bannana back!

If it's not a new chassis then you will have to have it blasted yourself to
see any pinholed areas that come out and need patched BEFORE galv so it's
not going to be a simple 1 day job, sorry. I would expect to pay about £50
for blasting and £150-£200 for galv.

Regards

William MacLeod



 

"William MacLeod" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> TVS wrote:
>
> > as far as I know... the bloke wasn't overly helpfull to be honest. Kept
> > saying they'd need to weight the chassis to know how much it would cost.
> > Seemed to be asking sombody else in the room and asking me to hold on a
> > sec. But it gives a guide price anyway... least its not in the hundreds.

>
> £75 seems way underpriced for cleaning and galving a chassis. On the "A

4x4
> is born" DVD they are ripped off with theirs (£600?!).
>
> For a £75 galv job on a chassis I would something like a bannana back!
>
> If it's not a new chassis then you will have to have it blasted yourself

to
> see any pinholed areas that come out and need patched BEFORE galv so it's
> not going to be a simple 1 day job, sorry. I would expect to pay about

£50
> for blasting and £150-£200 for galv.


£800 ish for a new galv chassis?


 
Angus McCoatup wrote:

> £800 ish for a new galv chassis?


New steel, less chance of it all going pear shaped due to uneven heating.
Plus the suppliers of galv chassis who are selling them at £800 have a very
respectable turnover of metal which will drop the prices significantly per
unit at the galvanisers.

Galvanising is something that can wreck your 200 hours worth of hand crafted
steel in about half a second.... best left to people who can show
experiance working with Land Rover chassis.

Regards

William MacLeod
 
Back
Top