New p38 owner with a few questions

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roccotune

New Member
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Evening all,

For my sins I have decided to give the freelander to missus and buy a P38 2.5 diesel auto! So hello to a new section of landy zone

So far it doesn't seem like a bad one, 1997 120K with plenty of new bits from the previous owner like air springs and such.

I have a few questions if any one could help?

1) any general suggestions like breathers to clean etc? Or bmw engine quirks?

2)the rear tail gate lower part does not close correctly, it's like the hoops don't go into the locks enough but they are on max adjustment

3) there is a black box that seems to be Velcroed to the inner wing with a vac pipe to a T on the map sensor and an electrical connection also, - is this a standard part?

4)there seems to be a bit more vibration from the engine at idle than I would like, are the known for poor engine mounts etc?

5) loads of other little stuff I'm sure I will sort out including a split upper ball joint boot drivers side, poor steering alignment which I just about sorted but now the steering wheel is sidways up and a bit of rust.

Other than that it's a perfectly reliable range rover (he he he)

Cheer guys
 
roccotune said:
Evening all,

For my sins I have decided to give the freelander to missus and buy a P38 2.5 diesel auto! So hello to a new section of landy zone

So far it doesn't seem like a bad one, 1997 120K with plenty of new bits from the previous owner like air springs and such.

I have a few questions if any one could help?

1) any general suggestions like breathers to clean etc? Or bmw engine quirks?

2)the rear tail gate lower part does not close correctly, it's like the hoops don't go into the locks enough but they are on max adjustment

3) there is a black box that seems to be Velcroed to the inner wing with a vac pipe to a T on the map sensor and an electrical connection also, - is this a standard part?

4)there seems to be a bit more vibration from the engine at idle than I would like, are the known for poor engine mounts etc?

5) loads of other little stuff I'm sure I will sort out including a split upper ball joint boot drivers side, poor steering alignment which I just about sorted but now the steering wheel is sidways up and a bit of rust.

Other than that it's a perfectly reliable range rover (he he he)

Cheer guys
Click to expand...
1) it's pre EGR so no worries there, cleaning the intercooler is a good idea, changing the auto box oil and filter is worthwhile, not sure if yours has the internal engine oil seperator or the external one, either way worth checking & cleaning. check the diff oil & change, ditto transfer box.

2) take the door card off and check the locking mechanism.

3) that's a power box.

4) not the smoothest engine on the planet IMO.

5) make sure the steering box is centralised or you will have problems.
 
Last edited:
Datatek said:
1) it's pre EGR so no worries there, cleaning the intercooler is a good idea, changing the auto box oil and filter is worthwhile, not sure if yours has the internal oil speperator or the external one, either way worth checking & cleaning. check the diff oil & change, ditto transfer box.

2) take the door card off and check the locking mechnism.

3) that's a power box.

4) not the smoothest engine on the planet IMO.

5) make sure the steering box is centralised or you will have problems.
Click to expand...



1) that explains why I couldn't find the egr! I'm lead to believe that the oils have been changed but will be checking them in detail!

2) good idea, will check

3) a power box ah, so aftermarket tuning box? May try without it and compare! Was thinking a super chip would be a good idea

4) seems to be the case, makes a good noise if you ask me :)

5) is centre just pointing directly ahead?


Thanks for your reply dude
 
tomcat59alan said:
Re question 4, check the crankshaft pulley, the rubber is known to break up and cause nasty vibration , and welcome ,glad you swerved the gaylander:)
Click to expand...


On it! Must say it's not that bad and goes when reved even just a bit. It's on the list to check out - thanks
 
roccotune said:
1) that explains why I couldn't find the egr! I'm lead to believe that the oils have been changed but will be checking them in detail!

2) good idea, will check

3) a power box ah, so aftermarket tuning box? May try without it and compare! Was thinking a super chip would be a good idea

4) seems to be the case, makes a good noise if you ask me :)

5) is centre just pointing directly ahead?


Thanks for your reply dude
Click to expand...

5) download RAVE from the How To section. Centre is the drop arm on the box itself, it must be centralised and all other adjustments done with it in that position.
Make sure you have the EKA code and save up for a Nanocom.
 
Datatek said:
5) download RAVE from the How To section. Centre is the drop arm on the box itself, it must be centralised and all other adjustments done with it in that position.
Make sure you have the EKA code and save up for a Nanocom.
Click to expand...


Will do, and yes seen them on eBay.
 
gfromleeds said:
And be gentle with the right pedal with that powerbox fitted or it'll rip your gearbox out
Click to expand...


Not sure it could pull skin off custard!

Also I have disconnected it temporarily, no reduction in vibration at idle but will give it a good drive tomorrow. Likely just going to reconnect it
 
roccotune said:
Not sure it could pull skin off custard!

Also I have disconnected it temporarily, no reduction in vibration at idle but will give it a good drive tomorrow. Likely just going to reconnect it
Click to expand...

Probably, but very slowly shaking it off:eek:
 
roccotune said:
Not sure it could pull skin off custard!

Also I have disconnected it temporarily, no reduction in vibration at idle but will give it a good drive tomorrow. Likely just going to reconnect it
Click to expand...
If it's down on power, check the pipe from the manifold to the power box is not perished and if you disconnect the power box you have to connect the pipe from the manifold to the MAP sensor or it will have bugger all power.
 
Datatek said:
If it's down on power, check the pipe from the manifold to the power box is not perished and if you disconnect the power box you have to connect the pipe from the manifold to the MAP sensor or it will have bugger all power.
Click to expand...


Cheers datatek, I did just that when I disconnected it. Actually after a short drive the engine adapted back to being ok on power without the box however I have refitted it and cleaned up all connectors.

The pipe to the map sensor from the box is joined with a t joint to the pipe from the manifold is that correct?

Also got the alignment done and made sure that the box was aligned with the raised marks on the right (as you look at it) side of the box.

Then removed some slack in the box with about 1ish turns.

Much better over all, but not sure they got the alignment 100% as usual!
 
roccotune said:
Cheers datatek, I did just that when I disconnected it. Actually after a short drive the engine adapted back to being ok on power without the box however I have refitted it and cleaned up all connectors.

The pipe to the map sensor from the box is joined with a t joint to the pipe from the manifold is that correct?

Also got the alignment done and made sure that the box was aligned with the raised marks on the right (as you look at it) side of the box.

Then removed some slack in the box with about 1ish turns.

Much better over all, but not sure they got the alignment 100% as usual!
Click to expand...
Yes, pipe is correct. The P38 has a strange throttle action, all the go is in the last 20% of the pedal movement.
 
Datatek said:
Yes, pipe is correct. The P38 has a strange throttle action, all the go is in the last 20% of the pedal movement.
Click to expand...


Perfect thanks! Runs well now, noisy and a bit sluggish when cold but nice once up to temp. Out if interest does any one know what speed the idle should be normally?

Cheer all
 
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