New headset, amp, speakers and actual sub woofer into Discovery 2 - it is possible

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Richardv8i

Member
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36
Location
Camberley
1. NB I spent a long time soundproofing the whole interior whilst also treating all rust finding and fixing leaks and replacing rubber seals etc. (all photos to follow).

So I saw lot's of US blogs about uprated headsets/OEM amps/confusing wiring and thought at first the obnly option was to pull all wiring out and then start absolutely from scratch but then stumbled on the BMW UP 7 amp - same wiring harness as the LR amps. I then found the company farcorners who were selling the Audison Prima soundystem (tweeter, 2" mids and 6.5 woofers) fitted with harnesses to link directly to the LR system - STOP - you are better off buying the APK 163 and the AP1P and 6.5" woofer from Audison/CEN. This will replace the a post tweeter, front door mids and woofers, rear door tweeters and woofers. I also bought a vibe optisound 8 (refurb) passive 900W wub and the vibemicro sub amp, 800w.

Disclaimer - I used a guy called Toby at Shocksaway in car solutions (http://www.shocksaway.com/) to help with the grounding, wiring up of the 2nd amp into the main fuse box and tidy up of the original wiring harness. He was and is phenomenal and in 2 visits we (he let me hang around and do the less technical stuff) had fitted the car out.

Detail - you can track the wiring from the back of the headset to the amp input. The reason i went for the BMW 7 was that i found it 2nd hand, it produces 1250w, it can be controlled from a comprehensive app/programme on a laptop (free with the amp) which even i can use and it seemed initially to be plug and play. This has made me realise that if you have the time to track the wires from headseat to amp you can draw out the front, middle, rear/hi,mid,low for any aftermarket amp. There are numerous other wires which can be taped off (headphones in rear rear seats, the "sub woofer" in the rear door etc). Once the wiring is tracked and you have selected out the wires for the main speakers if you have gone for the bmwup7 you can simply line them up with the diagram in the amp's manual.

The reason i went for a 2nd amp for the sub woofer was purely for power/sound. You could very easily go for an active sub but the passive fit under the drivers seat - remove the cd player and cut the foam from under that part of the carpet.

End result is a pioneer flip out headset wired to a bmw up 7 amp. Sub out wired to a vibe micro sum amp. this wires directly to the optisound 8. the front doors feature Audison APK 163 4" mid and 6.5" woofer. You do have to cut the mids' hole but that is too easy. MAKE SURE YOU MOVE IT TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE DOOR BY 2cm! otherwsie you will not be able to open the glove compartment. For the A post tweeter you will need the Audisp AP1P tweeter with the range of different mounts. The rear doors will then take the other set of 6.5" woofer and the tweeters from the APK163 which with a slight groove chiselled into the edge will fit directly into the factory tweeter mounts. Crossovers come with all the Audison products and are essential we found the best thing to do was carve small areas into the back of the door cards and then secure with sound deadening.






Amazon product

Further disclaimer - the gain is initially very high due to the pioneer headset and the bmw amp so your spabn of volume is small until you alter it in the computer programme.
 
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