Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
- Posts
- 12,465
- Location
- Plaistow
It's if you find that one is duff, it does say recondition I'm sure Reconditioners know there job.
New headgasket and still bubbling from the expansion tank
- Thread starter mcapinha
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
It's if you find that one is duff, it does say recondition I'm sure Reconditioners know there job.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 46,185
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
It's conceivable that your problems are due to poor quality gaskets or the mech not doing a good job
Head gaskets take a lot more pressure on a diesel than they do on a petrol.I've seen new heads from time to time on Ebay, BMW or Opel are fine.
The previous gasket was Land Rover OE, bought at a main dealer. The one that he has fitted now I don't know its origin to be honest..
The mechanic still hasn't gotten back to me on the instructions that he followed to tighten the head so I'm still hoping that's the problem.
The mechanic still hasn't gotten back to me on the instructions that he followed to tighten the head so I'm still hoping that's the problem.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
If it does not have Payen written on it be suspect. Best gaskets on the planet.
warover
Member
- Posts
- 20
After completing the replacement of my head gaskets, I had a similiar gurgling in my expansion tank. Moreover, my vehicle was running hot after a few minutes of driving. I had replaced the major components of the cooling system and I immediately recalled all of the stories of slipped liners. I second guessed everything that I had done. Keeping in mind that I have a 4.0se (Bosch/Thor) and I know absolutely nothing about a diesel engine, I will share my story and maybe it has applications to your situation.
I had read a post about refilling the engine with coolant. The writer suggested jacking up the right/passenger side (LHD) where the bleed tube on radiator and the expansion tank were located. I opened the bleed tube and filled coolant until I got a steady flow of coolant out of the bleed tube. I reconnected the bleed tube and ran the engine until the thermostat opened. While still on the jack and still running, I filled the system through the expansion tank. Since that time, my temperature needle has not moved above the 12 o'clock mark after warming up. Since your work was done by professionals, they would have assured themselves that the coolant system had no air leaks, but maybe not. The process of canting the engine worked for me. Just thought that I would share what may be useless information.
I had read a post about refilling the engine with coolant. The writer suggested jacking up the right/passenger side (LHD) where the bleed tube on radiator and the expansion tank were located. I opened the bleed tube and filled coolant until I got a steady flow of coolant out of the bleed tube. I reconnected the bleed tube and ran the engine until the thermostat opened. While still on the jack and still running, I filled the system through the expansion tank. Since that time, my temperature needle has not moved above the 12 o'clock mark after warming up. Since your work was done by professionals, they would have assured themselves that the coolant system had no air leaks, but maybe not. The process of canting the engine worked for me. Just thought that I would share what may be useless information.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 46,185
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
wil2813
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,324
BAZZ
Active Member
- Posts
- 115
- Location
- Licourice Town
If youve gone to the expense of testing the head have you had it skimmed? 2.5 Dhse mine, had same symptoms. Eventually replaced a supposedly good chd with one from a bmw with 150k and all has been fine. Check for gas coming out of the header tank. Best of luck.
The gasket that was installed is from Glaser. The mechanic sent me the instructions sheet and the torquing values and procedure is exactly the same as in RAVE, so that excludes a bad installation.
Today it was tested for gases in the coolant and the result was positive
So, even after testing the head 2 times and checking out OK I'm thinking that it's definitely cracked somewhere. Maybe a hairline fracture that isn't showing up.
For now, the game plan is to get another head and test it again.
Is there any definitive way of checking the head ? I remember reading something about a UV dye that was introduced in the coolant and would show the fractures under UV light, after removing the head. Does anyone know anything about this ? I'm just finding it hard to invest in another head without being absolutely sure that the problem is there.
Today it was tested for gases in the coolant and the result was positive
So, even after testing the head 2 times and checking out OK I'm thinking that it's definitely cracked somewhere. Maybe a hairline fracture that isn't showing up.
For now, the game plan is to get another head and test it again.
Is there any definitive way of checking the head ? I remember reading something about a UV dye that was introduced in the coolant and would show the fractures under UV light, after removing the head. Does anyone know anything about this ? I'm just finding it hard to invest in another head without being absolutely sure that the problem is there.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
- Posts
- 12,465
- Location
- Plaistow
The gasket that was installed is from Glaser. The mechanic sent me the instructions sheet and the torquing values and procedure is exactly the same as in RAVE, so that excludes a bad installation.
Today it was tested for gases in the coolant and the result was positive
So, even after testing the head 2 times and checking out OK I'm thinking that it's definitely cracked somewhere. Maybe a hairline fracture that isn't showing up.
For now, the game plan is to get another head and test it again.
Is there any definitive way of checking the head ? I remember reading something about a UV dye that was introduced in the coolant and would show the fractures under UV light, after removing the head. Does anyone know anything about this ? I'm just finding it hard to invest in another head without being absolutely sure that the problem is there.
Like I said earlyer, but sorry it was Magnesium racing wheels I used to clean ready for hairline fracture testing so I presume the same can be done for Aluminium heads, I would buy from a remanufacture if it were me to be on the safe side ring one up and ask about crack testing with uv light or how they Guarantee theirs
haven't read through again did yours get skimmed it should of as a matter of course .
kevwill
Active Member
- Posts
- 930
- Location
- Sunny Hastings
I'd take the head off and see if/where the head gasket has blown. Was the head skimmed before?
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
I had the same problem on mine and discovered that after all the head being done gaskets and valve seated it still boiled over only to discover that the rad core was blocked in the middle, put a new rad in and bob your uncle the car runs great. Over 1 grand spent doing the heads and it came down to a poxy rad, get them to look at the rad.
