New galvanised chassis what to do????

JJbing said:

I've got a 300tdi, forgot to mention the fuel tank, but they don't cost much £40 ebay

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If you really look close at them in there construction they are different , Richards being superior, thicker metal for chassis rails, and reinforcing plated thicker 1 piece, not 2 thinner pieces which can rust between them as galvanized cannot get between them, and will rust in time. And Richards will stamp your chassis ID number in the chassis before galvanizing, not after that will pop the galvanize off like a marshals will then rust

That may be so, but the difference is that this may occur in 20 years time or longer... I am over the moon with my chassis and glad i chose marsland!

Marsland chassis are current spec chassis' modified for the age of the vehicle with the standard thickness steel. Personally I don't really see any point in using thicker steel unless its going to get thrashed and abused.

Hammerite direct to Galv worked for my stuck like sh,t

Thor1950 said:

if a 300tdi you are fooked for fuel tank and towing hitch as they are td5 chassis. Plus marshall uses thinner steel

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TD5 chassis????
so i cant get a standard 110 300tdi and swap everything across??
if thats right considering the money thats not very good

james0211 said:

TD5 chassis????
so i cant get a standard 110 300tdi and swap everything across??
if thats right considering the money thats not very good

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They get excess chassis from LR and then move the motor mounts etc for a 300 tdi,or 200tdi or what ever. then dip it. But they start life as a TD5 chassis. That is why you need a td5 fuel tank and if you need towing gear then td5 towing stuff. One person way back did a chassis and his 300tdi tow hitch stuff would not fit and had to buy td5 stuff,cost him a few more quid than he wanted to

Thor1950 said:

if a 300tdi you are fooked for fuel tank and towing hitch as they are td5 chassis. Plus marshall uses thinner steel

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The steel on a Marsland chassis is the same thickness as a Genuine Land Rover chassis.

The reason for this is that it is a Genuine Land Rover chassis with engine mounts fitted to suit your requirements before being galvanised.

The rear cross member on all Marsland chassis are the later TD5 style with the recess hole for the trailer electrics. And the later bolt pattern for the towing plate. Which most older style towing brackets can be slightly modified to fit fine.

If you order a 200 or 300 tdi chassis the standard fuel tank fits in its standard location.


Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

Marsland can supply an adaptor plate or a td5 spec hitch. The hitch costs £50.

james0211 said:

i do like the idea of powder coating but worried about if it gets chipped moisture getting in

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Not that it's going to rust if it does!

I would spray etch prime it, then spray it with a GOOD satin black paint.

PC is very tough but that makes it brittle. Having said that, you could PC it then put stonechip on the ares most exposed to flying muck, like the rear crossmember and outirggers.

POR 15 even a hammer dont bother it

its USA product but in UK these are the people

http://www.frost.co.uk/


usual disclaimer , no relationship

tacr2man said:

POR 15 even a hammer dont bother it

its USA product but in UK these are the people

High Quality Tools and Equipment | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques


usual disclaimer , no relationship

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my mate used that stuff on his rear axle when he rebuilt it, that is some serious s**t
but not cheap either, god knows what it would cost to do an entire 110 chassis

..

So long as you paint the rear of the rear crossmember no ones going to know its under there.

Look at it like this a std chassis with mircosopic thin black paint will maybe do 20 years so a galv one has go to be good for twice that minimum?

Etched mine with brick cleaner then painted with dulux outdoor silk black, still on after three years