new clutch master cylinder problem

hey all
replaced clutch master cylinder today with a genuine TRW replacement.
all went ok, made the rod length the same as the old cylinder using nuts.

now, I had issues bleeding my TD5..but this take the biscuit!
I tried a non return valve bleed kit which didn't work.
I tried my wife in the pedal which didn't work
I tried my gunson power bleed at 20psi and about 250ml of fluid, that didn't work.

I have ordered a new bearmach slave cylinder but has anyone got any tips?
I will try reverse bleeding the new slave cylinder with a syringe for ****s n giggles

ps I only have clutch about an inch off floor-not enough to clear the pressure plate to put in gear while engine running

Have you adjusted pedal height

fanatic said:

Have you adjusted pedal height

Click to expand...

no I just left it at the same position as the previous master cylinder, previous cylinder worked ok with full pedal height engagement but a bit if a wheep started from it.

ps while using my gunson bleeder at 20psi the flow was slow and dot4 started to come out of new master cylinder seal..
would seals be knackered/should I return it?

The point of the adjuster is to ensure there's a bit of play in the rod so that the master piston returns properly to it's rest position. Try setting it as per manual. Also worth checking the bleed nipple isn't blocked.

I found mine a pain to bleed after fitting the same. Gravity feeding and patience seemed to work best after several attempts of pedal pressing etc. I also resorted to lifting the front near side a few inches as the bleed nipple is at approx 2pm on the slave and I had a feeling some air was getting trapped in there. Make sure you're not putting fluid already bled back in as it could contain air in it now. Took me about 3 hours in total to get it right

cheers chaps.
if I had fluid coming out of new master cylinder piston when bleeding with my gunson kit at 20psi does that indicate a shagged seal or should I not be sticking 20psi into it?

20psi is high for bleed kit try 10psi , but master cylinder will develop more than that when in use.
TRW parts are usually good strip it off and pull piston check for swarf and damage to seal / bore.
Have you got free play at the push rod when pedal fully retracted.
Did this mod to simplify adjustment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO_GjdZ5Ckw
Quick check on freeplay pedal should move about 6mm before pushrod pushes piston in.
Where is the bleed nipple situated on slave cylinder best at top.
Have heard of people just gravity bleeding system just crack bleed nipple and keep topping up till clear fluid comes out.

Never had problems bleeding a clutch before - good point about the bleed nipple being at the top 'cos the cylinder will fit either way. I've got a remote bleed nipple on mine which makes life so much easier. If you've got the bracket it's easy enough to make one up from hydraulic pipe and fittings. There's a good drawing in the parts book.

I recently changed my slave cylinder and I had some issues bleeding the system, seemed to require lots of pumping and refilling to get it right, even though once in a while it feels like there is air in the system.
I tried just leaving the bleed nipple open and waiting for gravity to help, but I had to nearly remove the nipple to get any fluid through it, so I did not bother with that as I was probably introducing more air in to the system.
Its a bearmach jobby off eBay for a tenner, so hardly big money, but the bleed nipple was a bit crap.

got a new slave and bleed screw on order, my bleed is on top of cylinder via an adaptor.
ordered a vacuum fill system too that attached to bleed as my syringe isn't big enough

I haven't checked the free play at piston but think I'll dismantle and check seal is ok first too. it's a new lucas trw master cylinder.

thanks all

Ensure free play at master cylinder or the bugger will not work. Set peddle height with the screw/locknut on peddle box. Gravity bleed , job done. I have never had any bleed issues on any of my motors, series 2,2a or 3. Why so many people struggle with bleeding brakes or clutches is beyond me, may be I am just lucky ?

I've had similar grief, I now have a piece of L section ally bent to the right length to wedge against the drivers seat base to hold the pedal down overnight, I find this works when it's still a bit soft underfoot.

I've bled tonnes of landys with no issues hence my concern, possibly faulty part but will report back, thanks for tips on pedal adjustment..I presumed I should set rod
length as per old master but obs not the case

so a new master cylinder is on it's way thanks to the fab customer service at craddocks.

I also decided to change slave:




question, why does the slave cylinder bleed banjo union point the bleed nipple backwards? do people fit them pointing towards front of engine or do away with them all together and just fit a bleed nipple?