new chassis cost

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The cost of the chassis (whatever it is) is only the start. By the time you have replaced all the things needed when putting it back together again the cost will be at least double what you expected.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
The cost of the chassis (whatever it is) is only the start. By the time you have replaced all the things needed when putting it back together again the cost will be at least double what you expected.

Col
Click to expand...
Double might be a little bit much, but I would budget at least another £1000 for parts. Things like bushes, brake pipes etc are a must, but there will then be other things you find as you dismantle that will also be needed.
 
Just to update this post, after buying the chassis. I have now spent over 3k and rising, you just don’t think about all the little things that keep adding up. Just spent another 100 today on side window runner and new channels,
Seen some where about not telling the wife, concern is if anything happens to me. She sells it for what I told her I have spent mmmm
 
Its worth considering reworking your own chassis. cutting out and flush fitting patches rather than plating over and getting your own chassis shotblasted and galvanised.Unless of course the chassis is a basket case.
 
Mine was a basket case, but once I got the new chassis it changed the ball game completely from just doing the car up, to a full nut and bold rebuild
 
Document everything you have done and all the new parts added. When you croak it, your wife can use that info in the ad and the bidders will decide the value.

Col
 
Phil Gibbs said:
Just to update this post, after buying the chassis. I have now spent over 3k and rising, you just don’t think about all the little things that keep adding up. Just spent another 100 today on side window runner and new channels,
Seen some where about not telling the wife, concern is if anything happens to me. She sells it for what I told her I have spent mmmm
Click to expand...
Swings and roundabouts. She loses on the Landy.
 
Side window runners ain't chassis parts but I feel your pain. I'm halfway through changing the front suspension on my Series 3 SWB. I've done the rears about 5 years ago. Anything under an old landyis an unknown until you get to the job. It's taken a week of grovelling around under the landy with it jacked on the chassis and the axle. Bang bash burn hammer swear etc. I have to question the motivation doing this otht than saving money. Power tools a vehicle lift would do the job. Instead I'm grovelling around in the rain and sheite coming of the grinder, doesn't feel satisfying somehow. More of the same next week.
 
I've done my share of upside down grinding in the rain and I'm very keen to avoid it! Last year a metal splinter got between my goggles and my face and I spent 6 hours in A&E. I now use "spoggles" but it was a painful reminder than some things are best done in the dry on a decent vehicle lift. I still do the odd non-structural welding (door tops etc) but for the chassis I use a local fabrcators. Cycling distance so I chuck the bike in and cycle home. Around £100 / £150 per outrigger if I provide the parts and of course he has the metal stock and skills to fab up anything needed if its all going west. And he does better welds that I've had from vehicle repairers
 
After I bought my Richard's swb chassis last year £1400 I've rebuilt the axles with 3.54 diffs, fitted new parabolic springs, new fuel tank, fitted a used 200tdi engine, getting the gearbox recon'd inc a H/D tranny box and X brake, a new steve parker exhaust system, a new rad and intercooler inc all the pipe work, a new 300tdi turbo, new galv front panel, and a new galv bulkhead and up to now i'm roughly at about the £5k mark and probably by the time its finished I will be roughly at about £8k.

Ok I no my rebuild inc's an engine conversion aswell which inc's other parts needed for that and other bits that I have chose to fit like an X brake and stuff so take a couple of grand off for that and your still at about £5k-6k, so unless your landy is pretty much mechanically sound and has a decent bulkhead then you mite be ok but I would seriously allow for that just in case, hope this helps :)
 
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