mystery clutch leak

Hi all,

my clutch is leaking very slowly and very sneakily!

I've got a 109/110 hybrid (best of both worlds -- all the charm and
grace of a 109, sitting on a 110 coil frame!) running a 4.0
petrol/R380/LT230. It takes about a week to empty the clutch reservoir
out and it doesn't hold much - maybe 1/4 cup (~60ml) or so.

I've looked around both the master and slave cylinders and all the pipe
fittings; there's no evidence of leakage there. From what I've
gathered it could be leaking into the bellhousing, right? The fix for
this appears to replacement of the slave cylinder. Is this a
reasonably easy job for a new owner who hasn't done much wrench turning
in the last 20 years or so?

Any advice or suggestions welcome!

Thanks!

-Chris Estes-

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Any advice or suggestions welcome!
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Chris Estes-
>

It's a very easy job to do, with just one gotcha.

Someone posted here a couple of weeks ago after changing their slave cylinder
and they'd managed to detach the clutch lever from its pivot inside the
bell housing.

Google for a post titled "300tdi slave cylinder BEWARE" for details.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

>
> Someone posted here a couple of weeks ago after changing their slave
> cylinder
> and they'd managed to detach the clutch lever from its pivot inside the
> bell housing.
>
> Google for a post titled "300tdi slave cylinder BEWARE" for details.
>
> --
> simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
> Simon Barr.
> '97 110 300Tdi.

Here's a copy of the original article-

Following my misdemeanour with my clutch slave cylinder replacement -
thankyou those of you that offered help - the sad fact is that this
apparently benign activity CAN result in splitting the gearbox / engine
unit.

The post that the release arm sits on will come away from the bellhousing
remarkably easily and cannot be put back without opening the bellhousing. I
could not believe this either but it was confirmed by two of my local LR
dealerships, it has happened in the past to each of them.

To reduce the chance of this happening, remove the two bolts from the slave
cylinder to bellhousing and whilst supporting the body of the cylinder have
someone put their foot slowly on the clutch pedal to eject the pushrod from
the slave cylinder. Once you can get hold of the pushrod, slide the cylinder
right off. The problem occurs if you simply pull the cylinder away from the
bellhousing; because the dust cap "grips" the pushrod it effectively also
pulls the release arm away from its pivot post, with the danger it actually
comes off. At the very least, you risk detaching the pushrod from the
release arm, not quite as disastrous but still to be avoided!!

Hopefully this will stop others from suffering the frustration that I have
just experienced. One other note, if you are splitting the g'box from the
engine for some other reason, consider modifying the pivot fixing into the
bellhousing; I have now tapped an M4 grub screw into the side of the pivot
pin to make it very difficult to come out in an unplanned manner.