P38A My First P38

ronnierix · May 17, 2022

Hi guys as the title suggests I’ve acquired a new toy. It’s. 1998 p38 4.6 V8 in Niagara grey done 120,000 and was cheap enough to have a play with over the next few years.

Any advice .? I know you guys have a wealth of knowledge and would appreciate any advice from people that have been as foolish as I’ve decided to be lol

Datatek · May 17, 2022

Flush the brake fluid and then bleed according to the procedure in RAVE. Change the airsprings if they haven't been done, they are a major cause of EAS problems when they are old and start to leak.

ronnierix · May 17, 2022

Datatek said:
Flush the brake fluid and then bleed according to the procedure in RAVE. Change the airsprings if they haven't been done, they are a major cause of EAS problems when they are old and start to leak.

Thanks mate I’ll do the brakes as you’ve suggested. I believe it’s on springs now but will have to check.

Flossie · May 17, 2022

Give the rear brake pipes a good looking over for corrosion and replace unless they look great, do flexies the same time for what they cost then flush and bleed as per RAVE. Check top and bottom swivel balljoints for play or perished rubbers, these will fail the mot and if you do your own repairs outside like lots have to, it's a miserable job in the cold and wet. Check carpet is dry drivers side near the feet blow vent, another job, if its leaking antifreeze, that's OK to do but not in winter outside.
If it's an auto, fluid and filter change.

Datatek · May 17, 2022

Flossie said:
Give the rear brake pipes a good looking over for corrosion and replace unless they look great, do flexies the same time for what they cost then flush and bleed as per RAVE. Check top and bottom swivel balljoints for play or perished rubbers, these will fail the mot and if you do your own repairs outside like lots have to, it's a miserable job in the cold and wet. Check carpet is dry drivers side near the feet blow vent, another job, if its leaking antifreeze, that's OK to do but not in winter outside.
If it's an auto, fluid and filter change.

Plus change the transfer box fluid (ATF) and the diff oil

marjon · May 17, 2022

Make sure the key works in the door and you have the EKA code

Consider getting diagnostics before you need it

J

Flossie · May 17, 2022

This list could go on and on

.
Check for rainwater in the spare wheel well, sniff the fuse box for burnt smells.

ronnierix · May 17, 2022

Flossie said:
Give the rear brake pipes a good looking over for corrosion and replace unless they look great, do flexies the same time for what they cost then flush and bleed as per RAVE. Check top and bottom swivel balljoints for play or perished rubbers, these will fail the mot and if you do your own repairs outside like lots have to, it's a miserable job in the cold and wet. Check carpet is dry drivers side near the feet blow vent, another job, if its leaking antifreeze, that's OK to do but not in winter outside.
If it's an auto, fluid and filter change.

Thanks Flossie. Will do. It will be on the drive outside I’m afraid

ronnierix · May 17, 2022

Datatek said:
Plus change the transfer box fluid (ATF) and the diff oil

Thanks mate

ronnierix · May 17, 2022

marjon said:
Make sure the key works in the door and you have the EKA code
Consider getting diagnostics before you need it

J

I’ve seen people talk about the nanocoms and thought that it would be a good investment

marjon · May 17, 2022

Flossie said:
This list could go on and on.
Check for rainwater in the spare wheel well, sniff the fuse box for burnt smells.

Very true

.

Best thing to do is drive it and enjoy it while things are good

cos it will get bad at some point and you need the good memories to get you through

J

Mark Piercy · May 17, 2022

White plug connectors in the lower kick panels. Drivers and passenger sides.
Axle ball joints upper and lowers,
Axle shaft seals in the same area.
Anti roll bar drop links.
Steering box adjustment (if needed ).
Coolant system health. Pump, thermostat and so on.
Heater core o rings.
Propshaft uj's for play and grease up.
Front wheel off the floor and see if you can slowly turn it with a wheel brace on the hub nut or wheel but (carefully).... Err more to follow

Flossie · May 17, 2022

ronnierix said:
Thanks Flossie. Will do. It will be on the drive outside I’m afraid

Not sure which year the rear brake pipe lay out changed but if you look up at the inside of the chassis rail next to the side of the fuel tank...if you see a sort of 'S' shaped shortish brake pipe then you have the later layout like mine. Those pipes are the first to go bad. If they all look a bit ropey there is 2 joiners behind the drivers side front wheel liner, you can fit all new pipes and flexies from there back and forget about them for years.
Don't know where you are but a few of us have nanocoms and other special gear which can come in handy which some may lend out or read faults for a drink. Nanocom is £500 odd but if she's a keeper, worth it.

Mark Piercy · May 17, 2022

Flossie said:
Not sure which year the rear brake pipe lay out changed but if you look up at the inside of the chassis rail next to the side of the fuel tank...if you see a sort of 'S' shaped shortish brake pipe then you have the later layout like mine. Those pipes are the first to go bad. If they all look a bit ropey there is 2 joiners behind the drivers side front wheel liner, you can fit all new pipes and flexies from there back and forget about them for years.
Don't know where you are but a few of us have nanocoms and other special gear which can come in handy which some may lend out or read faults for a drink. Nanocom is £500 odd but if she's a keeper, worth it.

I just thought that.
If you do change the brake pipes on the later setup. I had to do all the copper work from the driver footwell to the rear including all the rubber pipes. (heads broke off in pipes)....

Flossie · May 17, 2022

Mark Piercy said:
White plug connectors in the lower kick panels. Drivers and passenger sides.
Axle ball joints upper and lowers,
Axle shaft seals in the same area.
Anti roll bar drop links.
Steering box adjustment (if needed ).
Coolant system health. Pump, thermostat and so on.
Heater core o rings.
Propshaft uj's for play and grease up.
Front wheel of the floor and see if you can slowly turn it with a wheel brace on the hub nut or wheel but (carefully).... Err more to follow

Box in neutral isn't it? For vcu check.

Mark Piercy · May 17, 2022

Flossie said:
Box in neutral isn't it? For vcu check.

Not sure as the vcu is after the gearbox but it can't hinder.

Mark Piercy · May 17, 2022

If and when the pump stops charging on the abs block the pedal should give between three to four good pumps before the system recharges and stores pressure in the sphere. If not the sphère could also have lost its capacity to store fluid.

Flossie · May 17, 2022

Mark Piercy said:
I just thought that.
If you do change the brake pipes on the later setup. I had to do all the copper work from the driver footwell to the rear including all the rubber pipes. (heads broke off in pipes)....

I think my thread ' Duchess is in the garage!' Is worth a search for @ronnierix some pics etc you might find useful as I'm new to p38 too.

Mark Piercy · May 17, 2022

A hive of knowledge

Rubberknees · May 17, 2022

ronnierix said:
I’ve seen people talk about the nanocoms and thought that it would be a good investment

A big plus 1 on that idea
Oh and welcome to the nut house by the way

P38A My First P38

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