My crazy diff ratio change idea

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I looked at your PDFs.

While the gearbox has those two sensors it also has information about which gear it is in, the road speed of the car (from the ABS), the throttle position and the RPM of the engine.

I'm not surprised that the eight speed does not lock up easily given that it was probably intended to be used by people driving in Germany on the autobahn at higher speed.

The gearboxes are from ZF which is a German company so they would be made for the German roads.

Also Range Rover's are sold worldwide and there are many countries where the speed limit is higher than England.

I'm not overly concerned about the torque converter not locking up because I can get the answer using my OBD reader very quickly.

If someone has actual knowledge of ZF gearboxes and can tell me that my change will definitely stop the torque converter locking up than that is a different thing.

I'm not going to spend hours reading through technical manuals that don't answer the question when my OBD reader will do that.
The auto box is controlled electronically and the firmware can be adapted for many different situations just as it will be different for the petrol engine compared to the diesel.
 
If your diffs new diffs fit physically.
Your torque converter will spend more time out off lockup. That will result in more heat in your atf fluid so a slight decrease in atf fluid lifetime.

Then higher cylinder pressures. It will take x amount of energy to move the car down the road at a certain speed. In order for your engine to produce x amount of energy but at lower rpm it will have to output more torque. Torque is directly related to cylinder pressure. So if your rpm drops by 20% your torque will go up by 20% for the same amount of energy output. If your torque is up by 20% that means cylinder pressure is up by 20%.
Thats not taking into account that engine efficiency changes with rpm so at low rpm you usually have bad efficiency then where the engine makes peak torque you have peak efficiency and then efficiency gets worse again as rpm increase.
So if you drop your engine rpm too far below your peak torque rpm your cylinder pressure will have to be even higher than 20%.
 
If you just going to scarp it why all the bother? Just thrash it down the road at 1500rpm instead of 1200rpm and be done with it.
 
I think you are imagining an extreme situation and not looking at this in reality.

For example, someone else said that the oil pressure would be lower and that would damage the engine.

But I can drive now at 40mph at the same approximate revs as I will have at 50mph with the changed diffs and my engine has plenty of oil pressure at those RPM.

It might be 5% less oil pressure than normal which will be way inside what is required.

I think that you people are imagining things at an extreme to make an irrelevant point.

How much higher cylinder pressure would there be?

Do you have a way to calculate that?

How much extra wear would there be?

Lugging might happen if I was driving at 20mph in 5th gear, with the throttle wide open, but that will not be happening.

Given the low down torque of my engine, and the VANOS system, driving at 1,500 versus 1,900 at 70mph will not cause lugging.

The 6 speed L322 will do about 1,900 RPM at 70mph and the 8 speed L322 will do about 1,400 RPM at 70mph.

Why would Range Rover lower that RPM if there are so many issues with doing that?

Your comment only makes sense if I was loading up my car with a heavy trailer, but I am running it very light, as mentioned already.

Therefore the engine will be operating at the least weight end of the scale that it has been designed to run at, and it will easily handle the load of that weight at a lower RPM.

All of this has been explained by me already.

If I was driving a high revving 4 cylinder engine with a huge load at a low RPM in a high gear with the throttle fully open then I could accept your comment.

That is not the case at all, as my engine has a lot of low down torque.

This is just like someone who changes up gears early in a manual car because they do not need to squeeze that last bit of acceleration out of the car.

In normal operations this puts less stress on the engine.

Likewise, holding a car in lower gears longer than needed puts more stress on an engine.

In an extreme example there could be issues, but they typically come when the throttle is wide open, which is nowhere near where I will be in my modified L322.

As someone said on another forum, they knew someone who did something similar and they had no issues, just a reduction in their acceleration, which I do not care about.

I mentioned oil pressure and water pump for cooling. I don't know if it will be an issue but it is something I would keep an eye on in case it becomes an issue. I'm not a motor engineer, I am a tinkerer and I am well aware that these things are fiendishly complex with lots of trade-offs. I'm sure there will be other trade offs. Will they be ok, livable with or catastrophic? Don't know. You've checked what you can and it looks OK so time to try it but with an eye scanning for Captain Cockup trying to muscle in.

Like I say, I will be interested to see how it turns out. Best of luck.
 
I looked at your PDFs.

While the gearbox has those two sensors it also has information about which gear it is in, the road speed of the car (from the ABS), the throttle position and the RPM of the engine.

I'm not surprised that the eight speed does not lock up easily given that it was probably intended to be used by people driving in Germany on the autobahn at higher speed.

The gearboxes are from ZF which is a German company so they would be made for the German roads.

Also Range Rover's are sold worldwide and there are many countries where the speed limit is higher than England.

I'm not overly concerned about the torque converter not locking up because I can get the answer using my OBD reader very quickly.

If someone has actual knowledge of ZF gearboxes and can tell me that my change will definitely stop the torque converter locking up than that is a different thing.

I'm not going to spend hours reading through technical manuals that don't answer the question when my OBD reader will do that.

Phil is the guru on these boxes. Whatever he says.
 
Speaking from very recent experience, if an suto box runs for any petiod of time with less than the normal amount of fluid in it, it will soon be curtains for the box. And mine had less of a hard time than the OP's one did.
 
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