Much advice needed! (WARNING, NEWBIE IDIOT!!!!)

So, erm, hi! Ive currently got a 1996 D1, but dont worry, this is a series related post!
Im thinking of getting a 109 in place of my discovery, since im getting a car for daily/speedy stuff, so Im wanting a land rover to do land rover stuff only, and something simpler/easier to work on etc.
So, for starters, S2, S2a, S3, whats the difference? (Other than the lights/grill). Im sure this as been asked about a million times, so a link to the answer would be great! (Ive looked, but not found)
Are they all equally simple to work on? I dont know how far towards "project" I want to lean. I dont have a garage, only a large pile of hand tools in a shed.
I know that they are VERY easy to steal, so my plan to stop that is very simple, Im just going to chain it to a massive tree, and maybe a couple of points in the ground. It wont make it un-stealable, but it will mean that a lot of noise will be made in stealing it.
Im looking forwards to learning! Never really held a spanner in anger before, but I figured an old series is a good vehicle to start!
I can get anything from a completely rotten shed that needs to be rebuilt on a new chassis/bulkhead etc, to something useable that needs tidying up.

They are all simple to work on, S3 dash is different and not as simple to work on as it's more modern so more plastic bits to remove which also split and rust. Rear axle on the 109 is different, wheels are wider too. Lots of silly insignificant differences but non that make each model less or more harder to work on.

Older and more original they are the more they cost
S3 been poorly thought of for years but now increasing in price

1996 Discovery is hardly any more complex than a Series to work on tbh, just has more interior.

Well, its got a lot more bits on it, power steering, AC, Power assisted disc brakes, electronic everything, and a lot more potential rust spots.
I think Ill buy whichever comes up at the right time/place/price etc.
As for how far down the "project" scale I go, much advice would be appreciated!

The s2 had the quirk of emptying a pint of rain water on your lap in wet weather when you open the door. This wasnt sorted with the 2a but by time the modern 3 hit the market they upped the spec to a pint and a half. They never improved on this right up to the eighty thousand pound heritage defender.
The 2 was a bit cold and damp with a constant draft while driving. Much more wind with added damp in the 2a. The 3 had the advantage of a covered in heat system that remained completely useless but at least had the more complicated control system that gave something to tug at in vain hope.
All remained cramped and almost impossible to drive but the 3 added larger seats that made ingress so hard the issue kind of resolved itself. Rot isnt an issue as all three rot very freely and wait until the most inconvenient moment to break down. Imminent divorce isnt marque specific and all provide the inevitable along with financial hardship, golf club banishment and child disownership. Help is provided in trying to convince the RAC to get you home 'yet again' with the Landyzone commonly used excuses page but I'm afraid youll probably never get sex again unless you bump into a Freelander driver who is not rushing to his hair salon.

Im dying. I cant breathe. More oxygen. Laughing too hard.
Im only 19, so I hope its not all over yet!
That has however reminded me of a good point, it needs to be finnished before I start at uni, (september). And by finnished I mean driveable, preferably roadworthy. I highly doubt that it will be coming with me to uni, that rather depends on how secure the parking is, and how close to a big tree I can park. Uni is only 30 mins from strata florida, or about 45 series mins, assuming no breakdowns.
Just a thought, can I fit defender doors? Or at least defender door tops? Thinking in terms of having an up-down window rather than a 1/2 sliding thing, just to give more room

The slide window is mandatory as there isnt room for your arms behind the wheel so an elbow must be outside the vehicle at all times. The only alternative is a skateboard elbow pad. I doubt you could work the winder without opening the door so not an advisable modification. Oh and dont be tempted to wear wellington boots with a snugging strap. They loop through the handbrake leaver resulting in imminent death when attempting third gear. You wont be able to select first or second until gearbox compitent as they need to be taken by surprise after a few moments of ignorance witch takes a little practice or alternatively retrieving the bits of synchromesh from the sump.

Im aware of the driving position, hence the need for a bigger window. Instead of opening the door to wind it down, some really clever dudes discovered this thing called electricity, and then noticed that you could use it to move windows around, they disappear into the door! Its like magic! (So would defender doors with electric windows be a worthwhile upgrade? Also slightly more secure Im guessing?)
Do any/all/some have a flip down windscreen?
Ive never really thought about synchros - Ive learnt to heel and toe, and rev match when downshifting, if that helps?

LetsHopeItFits said:

Im aware of the driving position, hence the need for a bigger window. Instead of opening the door to wind it down, some really clever dudes discovered this thing called electricity, and then noticed that you could use it to move windows around, they disappear into the door! Its like magic! (So would defender doors with electric windows be a worthwhile upgrade? Also slightly more secure Im guessing?)
Do any/all/some have a flip down windscreen?
Ive never really thought about synchros - Ive learnt to heel and toe, and rev match when downshifting, if that helps?

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Defender doors with wind up windows are very hard to get, and expensive. I don't know if defender doors with electric windows exist, but if they do, they will be even more expensive. They aren't much more secure than Series doors.
Electrics on an old Landrover cause a lot of problems anyway, even without extras like electric windows.

Series doors are cheap, but Series aren't now, unless they are restoration projects.
Expect to pay upwards of 10 grand for a 2 or 2a now, unless it is hanging.
Series 2 as standard have 2 litre petrol or diesel engines, which are painfully slow, especially the diesels.
Series 2a as standard have 2286cc petrol or diesel engines, which are better, especially the petrols.

Series 3 have more a plastic full width dashboard, instead of the small steel centre console that 2s and 2a have.
They aren't so well liked as classics, but the prices of good examples are also rising now.

In the morning when you sober up, you will probably realise the whole thing is a bad idea, and just stick with your Disco.

LetsHopeItFits said:

Im aware of the driving position, hence the need for a bigger window. Instead of opening the door to wind it down, some really clever dudes discovered this thing called electricity, and then noticed that you could use it to move windows around, they disappear into the door! Its like magic! (So would defender doors with electric windows be a worthwhile upgrade? Also slightly more secure Im guessing?)
Do any/all/some have a flip down windscreen?
Ive never really thought about synchros - Ive learnt to heel and toe, and rev match when downshifting, if that helps?

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Forgot. For non synchro gears, you should be able to double declutch, or expect a lot of graunching.

Nope, not keeping the disco, too small to lie down in, so its being replaced. With what, I dont know, but hopefully an LR!
Will look out for an S3 then, its the one that looks the best IMO, and the plastic dash gives more options for mounting extra switches etc.
When you say electrical problems, you mean lights? Diesel would be my first choice, so the only things that use electricity are the lights, starter motor and glow plugs? And theres the battery and alternator, but that completes the list of electronic components doesnt it?

LetsHopeItFits said:

Nope, not keeping the disco, too small to lie down in, so its being replaced. With what, I dont know, but hopefully an LR!
Will look out for an S3 then, its the one that looks the best IMO, and the plastic dash gives more options for mounting extra switches etc.
When you say electrical problems, you mean lights? Diesel would be my first choice, so the only things that use electricity are the lights, starter motor and glow plugs? And theres the battery and alternator, but that completes the list of electronic components doesnt it?

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You won't be lying down in the back of a Series unless it is a 109", or you are about 2 foot tall.

I mean all the electrics, have you never heard the old saying, "Lucas electrics, home before dark".
There are no electronics on a Series, they hadn't been invented then.
But there are electrics, lights, horn, wipers, indicators. And they can all fail, short out, or go up in smoke, and quite often do.

My own opinion would be that the 2286cc diesel engine is one of the worst diesels ever made, except the 2 litre diesel, of course.
But what do I know, I have only been working on diesels for 40 years.

Correct, 109 of course. Ive never really understood the appeal of the SWB series/defender, but thats just my personal opinion.
Electrics, all very basic, all presumably very cheap? Series electrics is probably the thing Ide be most confident at having a go at, because the only tools needed are a screwdriver, and maybe a soldering iron/crimping tool, and possibly a multimeter.
Diesel, for a number of reasons - better underwater, longer range/better mpg, can run on veg oil. Also, from hat Ive understood, very easy to swap for a more powerful derv, (19j?)
And ironically, I just remembered heat shrink

This is a deja vu thread last time on Discovery thread....opening a book on when it appears in the RRC thread and then members project...lol

No, the discovery idea was very different. There will be no chassis chopping, just a simple, by-the-book 109, Im just wondering if it makes more sence financially to spend the full budget on something thats ready to use, but may need a tiny bit of tidying up, or buying something completely rotten, and rebuilding.
Out of interest, how much would it cost to build a series from new/good used bits? There arent that many pieces are there?
Also, something I have already decided, based on my minimal experience as a passanger in a few over the years, PARABOLIC SPRINGS! When I first experienced them, I thought I was in a bentley! (Ok, compared to previous experiences in a stock, or oversprung series, all 109 SWs for anyone wondering) The ride in that 109 with the parabolics was better than any defender Ive ever been in, and very similar to my disco with a load in the back (HD springs make it bouncy/hard when empty)

LetsHopeItFits said:

Out of interest, how much would it cost to build a series from new/good used bits? There arent that many pieces are there?

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If you have to ask that your out of your depth already..

Get a runner that needs attention or it will end up on the drive in bits for the next three years while you work through the rabbit hole youve opened up. Its the best approach because your enjoying it while its being done. Get a bitsa. As long as the chassis is reasonable and it has leaf springs all will be well. You can even prolong the pain of a bulkhead replacement with a bit of faff. A full resto will cost an average of ten grand. I have kept mine on the road for a fraction of that, only rebuilding the engine myself recently at a cost of a couple of thousand.
You will have to continuously spend on it but by no means is that the biggest issue. They were made when things were serviced, continually.
Constant checking and poking is very necessary to catch things before they cost the earth.
They take a hell of a lot of living with as a daily never mind if they are abandoned regularly and we all know a mechanical objuect was designed to move not to be sat sitting.

LetsHopeItFits said:

No, the discovery idea was very different. There will be no chassis chopping, just a simple, by-the-book 109, Im just wondering if it makes more sence financially to spend the full budget on something thats ready to use, but may need a tiny bit of tidying up, or buying something completely rotten, and rebuilding.
Out of interest, how much would it cost to build a series from new/good used bits? There arent that many pieces are there?
Also, something I have already decided, based on my minimal experience as a passanger in a few over the years, PARABOLIC SPRINGS! When I first experienced them, I thought I was in a bentley! (Ok, compared to previous experiences in a stock, or oversprung series, all 109 SWs for anyone wondering) The ride in that 109 with the parabolics was better than any defender Ive ever been in, and very similar to my disco with a load in the back (HD springs make it bouncy/hard when empty)

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Keep the Disco..

Projects are seldom cheap, take your budget and double it is a good rule of thumb and take any expectation of completion and add a few years to it..

Like Turboman says the diesels are shít generally.

And over any kind of distance a Series can be rather tiresome, my Granddad has 5 of the damn things I learnt to drive in them, knees around yer ears and after 20mins you need ear muffs after 30mins you need a chiropractor and after an hour you'll need a wheelchair