MOT Failure, Steering advice needed

I'm Gutted

My Sherpa engined Landy with Rangey axles is through the MOT apart from 1 weld. Unfortunately that weld is on a steering component and they won't pass it.

Heres the problem.

Range rover axles, running on leaf springs. The rear steering track control arm (whatever its called, the long bar with two track rod ends at the back) doesn't clear the axles in the standard form.

So the previous owner (who did the conversion) stepped it as follows. Standard track control arm from drivers side to passenger side. At the end of the passenger side on he took the track rod end out and welded the hole up. Then he took a second track control arm and welded 4 inches of it underneath the first one so its the same length but has the effect of lifting the arm bt about 3/4 of an inch. This means it now clears the top of the leaf spring and doesn't hit the bottom of the slightly turned up diff.

Its a fantastic job, done several thousand miles no problem, went through its last MOT like it (wasn't noticed).

The probelm is no steering component can be excessively heated, welded or repaired. The MOT garage have called the ministry and said it cannot go through with any weld on it.

So what I need is a manufacturers part (which ironically can be welded probably!) or some other solution. The Landy has been there for a month and I was really hoping to get it back and maybe take it for its inaugural off roading session at the weekend, so its a panic.

If you know of a part that can fix this then part numbers and other info would be really useful.

If not then its a case of trying to get it to another garage (not ideal) or paying out the current bill - nearly 300 quid and getting a vehicle without an MOT

can ya get an engineers report off someone with good creditials,when i had my patrol done(6" lift) all the steering rods and balljoints even the drop arm was adapted,cut,welded an such,never had any trouble with it,with my engineers report and insurance inspection note all passing it off as ok

take it somewhere else for the MOT ?

I was told I can't even get an SVA with this particular issue.

I will ask about the engineers report but I thought the ministry would have suggested that.

Taking it somewhere else is an option, but this garage does all my work so I'd rather get it through there somehow....

its a shame i aint got no piccies of its steering set up cus it was a real cut and shut job due to the increase in height but as long as it looks decent i cant see a problem to be honest,to give ya an idea wot i had to over come everything from the steering uj to the ball joint was modified to fit you can tell how hi by me old disco in the back ground,because of all the alterations it was all bespoke work so i needed that piece of paper to avoid sva,s.

i think ya mite mek out the steering rods (just) to give you an idea

yeh i would get some sound proofing mat's on there with jube clip's well think about it they cant lift or touch the interiour + if they do they can be prossicuted.

so cover it up with ither mat or filler

series 3 sweet 16 said:

yeh i would get some sound proofing mat's on there with jube clip's well think about it they cant lift or touch the interiour + if they do they can be prossicuted.

so cover it up with ither mat or filler

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where you bin hidin?
nice idea dunt think itll work though

Got a 109 on the drive with range rover axles on. will be takin em off to put on my 88. will be almost as wide as it is long!

I take it youve got disc brakes then??

I didnt convert the 109. Not sure how this was done. Will have a look and post some pictures.

I have the complete axles with the disc brakes on and a dual circuit master cylinder. It works really well, pulls up sharp, pulls up straight, the back end holds up nicely even when towing heavy loads....just a shame about this one thing. I reckon these usually get through cause no one spots them. If they hadn't been so diligent they would have missed it, it looks part of the car.

Oil dripper, the garage said the engineers report gets your insurance sorted, but won't help with the MOT

can you just stick a standard rod on to pass M.O.T then put the adapted one back on when you get the ticket they only have to drive it on to the ramp and off again so not really going to notice any other problem s it may cause

standard one fouls the spring so won't fit on. I might be able to get away with spacing the axle out. Anyone know where you can get longer u bolts from?

David6214 said:

I have the complete axles with the disc brakes on and a dual circuit master cylinder. It works really well, pulls up sharp, pulls up straight, the back end holds up nicely even when towing heavy loads....just a shame about this one thing. I reckon these usually get through cause no one spots them. If they hadn't been so diligent they would have missed it, it looks part of the car.

Oil dripper, the garage said the engineers report gets your insurance sorted, but won't help with the MOT

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i know that,and if your insurance folks are happy with it deeming it safe for them to take the risk of covering your motor wheres the problem with the mot man.tell him to stop bein petty or feck off and get a life,
the first time i took the patrol i had all the paperwork with me, the mot man said to me if its good enough for the insurance to cover the motor,it,s good enough for a pass

I reckon there must be another way of getting the clearance needed. Bit of lateral thinking. Post some piccies of the problem & I reckon if we all have a good thunk we cun come up with a way around it using the standard item.........which of course you'll have ter source.

Grippa said:

I reckon there must be another way of getting the clearance needed. Bit of lateral thinking. Post some piccies of the problem & I reckon if we all have a good thunk we cun come up with a way around it using the standard item.........which of course you'll have ter source.

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I'll try and get into the garage friday and get some photos. SHould have taken some when I was down there today really.

Its such a shame as it really is a first class piece of welding on the bar!

Anyway, extended U bolts are the way forward I think, Might have found a source of standard non land rover ones, will know tomorrow. I need about 10mm extra!

Priceless, the garage decided to have a fiddle about with blocking the axle and found that the u bolts have been welded to lengthen them, but thats ok cause they're susp not steering components. So they have blocked it and it seems to be going ok. I have found a supplier to make me some custom u bolts at £10 a pop which should sort it for the time being, but i reckon I will change teh axle angle and increase the shackle length as advised elsewhere....

See other thread for new plans...

I doubt if you'll get anyone else to pass it without fixing it, as the failure sheet will be electronically logged.
What about making a new track arm that is bolted together. That way you can say it's a manufactured part. It won't fall into the bracket of heated welded or repaired. If the MoT doesn't pass that he's too much of a jobsworth and I'd take all my future trade elsewhere.

Not worried about taking it somewhere else, so long as blocking it works it will be all sorted.

I'll give them a call tomorrow for an update

David6214 said:

Not worried about taking it somewhere else, so long as blocking it works it will be all sorted.

I'll give them a call tomorrow for an update

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I wouldn't be happy driving around with a track rod overlapped and welded, god knows what its done to the structure of the metal and do you really trust the weld.

It sounds like a frankie job, it is a steering component and if you can't heat it because you fook it, what do you think the heat from the weld did.

Here is what I would do, take the fooker off, shoot off to somebody wif a pipe bender and the suitable pipe, and get him to bend one that shape, then get it threaded to take track rod ends before you get killed.

Make sure it's the right grade of steel.

Fookin weldin steering components, shood git shot at dawn wif a cannon.

Oh and by the way go over the vehicle yoorselv wif a fine toof comb, because the guy was a clown, wif a capital "C"

Sorry David but I agree with David. Get a length of thickwalled cold drawn steel tube and get it bent to shape and threaded. Problem solved and easier than ****ing about with the axle.

david451 said:

I wouldn't be happy driving around with a track rod overlapped and welded, god knows what its done to the structure of the metal and do you really trust the weld.

It sounds like a frankie job, it is a steering component and if you can't heat it because you fook it, what do you think the heat from the weld did.

Here is what I would do, take the fooker off, shoot off to somebody wif a pipe bender and the suitable pipe, and get him to bend one that shape, then get it threaded to take track rod ends before you get killed.

Make sure it's the right grade of steel.

Fookin weldin steering components, shood git shot at dawn wif a cannon.

Oh and by the way go over the vehicle yoorselv wif a fine toof comb, because the guy was a clown, wif a capital "C"

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Bin thinkin dave about yer vehicle, if yer gonna get "u" bolts made for them spacers consider getting bigger diameter ones and drill out yer saddle, it will give you a more secure fitting, also hope the spacers are locked together, preferably to the saddle wif a centre bolt or such in case, and when they come loose a bit, or the spacers might fall out and you lose yer axle. truck "u" bolts come loose all the time and it's the centre bolt that keeps it together safe.

Also although I am not familiar wif your setup remember the spacers also provide the caster angles for your vehicle, usually one of them is shaped slightly like a wedge tilting your axle slightly forward at the top.

Dont weld "u" bolts dave even if you think the mot wont find them, it's like putting a bolt in yer fuse holder.

Take your time and build it right and it will be safe and fun, and post some pics, everybody likes pics.