MOT check list

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the help so far, it's all going well.
My Disco TDI200 ('93 - 160k miles) has its MOT in a month.

Can you give me a list of common failures on a Disco and what I should be looking for? I mean everything - because I've spent a small fortune (and a whole lot of time) on the car so far, so the last thing I want is an MOT fail.
I am aware of things like brake pipes and it seems the rear floor is the main one.

Cheers

Tom

Can only fail on the rear floor if it is within 30cm of seat belt mtg, sill's around the seat belt mtg area 30cm, drivers side inner front wheel arch within 30 cm of brake master cylinder mtg area, shock mtg turrets on front, rear shock rubbers, excess oil on swivels likely to contaminate braking surface, rubber mtg on radius arms front and rear, top ball joint on rear axle, tyres fouling on full lock, front doors opening from outside and inside and closing correctly, rear door opening and shutting, spare wheel mounted securely, fuel filler cap in place and the correct screw fit to seal properly, exhaust mtg's all in place, rear disc with excessive corrosion, if I think of any more other than the normal MOT test and peculiar to Disco I will let you know ( I normally test at least 15 LR's each week). Barry

some garages offer a free re-test. if you can find one, you'll know exactly what you've got to do at no additional expense.

Free re-test is at the discretion of the test station and that is subject to a list of minor items only and normally within 24hrs. If any re-measurements (emissions/brake performance/headlight aim) are required a new test is required which can be charged at half price as long as the vehicle is represented within 10 working days, but if it fails again the full fee is due.
Barry

excellent, this is exactly what i'm after.
i'll hook the car up on the ramp tomorrow and check it all.

be great to hear any other info.

thanks tom

Thought of a few more, front and rear flexi brake pipes need checking for any signs of the outer cracking (especially the rear as I have had 2 burst whilst on test), the steel brake pipes and there end fixings need checking for rust clean any muck off them and smear with grease not coppergrease as this sends alarm bells ringing as it hides the condition of the pipe ( I always remove it and it is surprising what you find underneath!!!!), grease the end of the handbrake cable, make sure that all brake pipes are securely mounted along there length if not use tie wraps around the axle (usual place as the plastic clips brake). Make sure your brake fluid level is up to the max mark. If you are taking it to be tested while you wait, give it a good blast to clear the exhaust of any soot and if possible change the diesel filter and put some diesel additive directly into the filter and the remainder in the tank. Do you know when the cambelt was changed, if you cannot answer the garage has the right to refuse to test the vehicle or ask you to sign a disclaimer, as you should be asked when presenting for test, if you are not asked and the belt lets go the garage is liable for the engine repair. Have you adjusted your headlights or changed them since the last test?

Hey Stig,

Excellent checklist, I spent a few hours today getting all of that covered.

Three questions:

1) Have found quite a bit of (non supporting) rust in the top of driver side arch (inside the engine bay) - am I ok to fill this or shall I re-weld a piece of thin steel over it? As it's none supporting I am guessing it's OK to fill and paint (hell of a lot quicker, seeing as I'd have to isolate the area from the brake cylinder, fuel, cables to do the welding)???

2) Had my cambelt changed approx 1000 miles ago, but I didn't recieve any paperwork from the service centre, should I have? Come to think of it, I didn't even get a proper receipt from them... that's quite dodgy really isn't it?

3) I replaced the fuel filter and filled the new one with Diesel additive/cleaner the result was a super clean no smoke start and run... very impressed with the results.
How often can this method be used without ruining the engine (as the additive is recommended to be mixed down with a full tank of diesel)

Sorry for the barrage of questions - Seriously impressed with your info.
Top man

Tom

all steering joints inc the steering shaft uj,s.
all propshaft uj,s.
engine and gearbox mounts.

The inner wheel arch corrosion is really down to the individual tester to interperate the 30cm ruling, it states in our tester manual that the 30cm measurement is taken as a sphere from the mounting point of the brake pedal, so using this the bulkhead inside the car and the inner wheel arch fall into this area. but not the top part. As the shock mounting comes off the chassis and also the steering box they do not come into the inner wheel arch corrosion. I would suggest that it if it looks tidy there should not be a problem, so either way of repairing the corroded area should be acceptable. As "ormus" states about the propshaft joints and engine mounts/gearbox mounts these are advise only, our criteria for failing is 1/ does it affect steering? 2 / does it affect braking? if the answer is no we cannot fail the item. Obviously the steering uj's are part of the testable items, but the allowed play at the steering wheel for steering box type of steering is 75mm!!!

Well - I took my car in for MOT... bad news.
I ran through the check list and made lots of fixes, however my tester was on a super thorough 'must kill the disco' mood. He spent 2 hours checking it, I thought he'd gone home!!!
2 hours - managed to find loads of little holes all over the place.

Out with the MIG welder over the weekend - he passed the holes in the arches that I was worried about as it hadn't reached the bulkhead near the brake servo.

Most of the rust is in the rear arches.

Lets see if I can get all the changes made in time to get the 10 day free re-check.

Luckily, two days of solid cutting and welding, plus a day of waterproofing and it all passed!

Cheers for all feedback on this one!