More series 3 troubles.

Just a follow up to my previous post.

i rebuilt the stromberg 175 cd, then realised it wasn't a carby problem
(suppose i should be thankful though, forced my to rebuild it now before it
does go pear-shaped). i then replaced the points and condenser in the dizzy,
and bingo. problem solved, but not for long.

it started getting a little rough within about an hour of run-time. now it's
running badly but still driveable, but the more pressing issue is that the
exhaust manifold is getting incredibly hot. so hot in fact that it was
glowing red-hot after a 20 minute drive. now i'm no expert, but i reckon
this is no good! what on earth could be causing this to happen? i am very
close to giving up and taking it to a mechanic, but if i get any ideas i
will try them out tomorrow. so please, give any suggestions and i will get
back to you on progress.

by the way, it is a 2.6 litre rover 6 cylinder petrol in a series 3
landrover.

Cheers.

Sam.

Samuel wrote:
> Just a follow up to my previous post.
>
> i rebuilt the stromberg 175 cd, then realised it wasn't a carby problem
> (suppose i should be thankful though, forced my to rebuild it now before it
> does go pear-shaped). i then replaced the points and condenser in the dizzy,
> and bingo. problem solved, but not for long.
>
> it started getting a little rough within about an hour of run-time. now it's
> running badly but still driveable, but the more pressing issue is that the
> exhaust manifold is getting incredibly hot. so hot in fact that it was
> glowing red-hot after a 20 minute drive. now i'm no expert, but i reckon
> this is no good! what on earth could be causing this to happen? i am very
> close to giving up and taking it to a mechanic, but if i get any ideas i
> will try them out tomorrow. so please, give any suggestions and i will get
> back to you on progress.
>
> by the way, it is a 2.6 litre rover 6 cylinder petrol in a series 3
> landrover.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Sam.

If it ran OK for an hour before going off, I'd reckon the timing has
slipped or the points have burnt out (bad condenser?). As to the excess
heat, sounds like running very weak or ignition badly retarded. Exhaust
definately shouldnt glow red. Back to the points/timing again.

HTH
DaveP

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Samuel wrote:
> > Just a follow up to my previous post.
> >
> > i rebuilt the stromberg 175 cd, then realised it wasn't a carby problem
> > (suppose i should be thankful though, forced my to rebuild it now before
it
> > does go pear-shaped). i then replaced the points and condenser in the
dizzy,
> > and bingo. problem solved, but not for long.
> >
> > it started getting a little rough within about an hour of run-time. now
it's
> > running badly but still driveable, but the more pressing issue is that
the
> > exhaust manifold is getting incredibly hot. so hot in fact that it was
> > glowing red-hot after a 20 minute drive. now i'm no expert, but i reckon
> > this is no good! what on earth could be causing this to happen? i am
very
> > close to giving up and taking it to a mechanic, but if i get any ideas i
> > will try them out tomorrow. so please, give any suggestions and i will
get
> > back to you on progress.
> >
> > by the way, it is a 2.6 litre rover 6 cylinder petrol in a series 3
> > landrover.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Sam.
>
> If it ran OK for an hour before going off, I'd reckon the timing has
> slipped or the points have burnt out (bad condenser?). As to the excess
> heat, sounds like running very weak or ignition badly retarded. Exhaust
> definately shouldnt glow red. Back to the points/timing again.
>
> HTH
> DaveP
>

As Dave says, there's only weak mixture and more likely badly retarded
ignition will make the exhaust manifold glow. Double check ignition timing
and make sure the distributor clamp isn't loose thereby moving on its own.
Could be a restriction in the fuel supply as you said in your previous post
with gradual starvation, have you checked tank stand pipe filter or blocked
tank breathers?
Siezed auto advance in dizzy? Twist rotor arm with fingers to check.

Martin

"Oily" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > Samuel wrote:
> > > Just a follow up to my previous post.
> > >
> > > i rebuilt the stromberg 175 cd, then realised it wasn't a carby
problem
> > > (suppose i should be thankful though, forced my to rebuild it now
before
> it
> > > does go pear-shaped). i then replaced the points and condenser in the
> dizzy,
> > > and bingo. problem solved, but not for long.
> > >
> > > it started getting a little rough within about an hour of run-time.
now
> it's
> > > running badly but still driveable, but the more pressing issue is that
> the
> > > exhaust manifold is getting incredibly hot. so hot in fact that it was
> > > glowing red-hot after a 20 minute drive. now i'm no expert, but i
reckon
> > > this is no good! what on earth could be causing this to happen? i am
> very
> > > close to giving up and taking it to a mechanic, but if i get any ideas
i
> > > will try them out tomorrow. so please, give any suggestions and i will
> get
> > > back to you on progress.
> > >
> > > by the way, it is a 2.6 litre rover 6 cylinder petrol in a series 3
> > > landrover.
> > >
> > > Cheers.
> > >
> > > Sam.
> >
> > If it ran OK for an hour before going off, I'd reckon the timing has
> > slipped or the points have burnt out (bad condenser?). As to the excess
> > heat, sounds like running very weak or ignition badly retarded. Exhaust
> > definately shouldnt glow red. Back to the points/timing again.
> >
> > HTH
> > DaveP
> >
>
> As Dave says, there's only weak mixture and more likely badly retarded
> ignition will make the exhaust manifold glow. Double check ignition timing
> and make sure the distributor clamp isn't loose thereby moving on its own.
> Could be a restriction in the fuel supply as you said in your previous
post
> with gradual starvation, have you checked tank stand pipe filter or
blocked
> tank breathers?
> Siezed auto advance in dizzy? Twist rotor arm with fingers to check.
>
> Martin
>
>

thanks fellas. i will go and give the ignition system a once over again. one
thing that came to me very late, was i had been tuning the motor with a
timing gun while its running, assuming that tdc when running is the same as
tdc when still (static vs dynamic tuning). this could be part of the
problem. i will tune it precisely how the say in the manual and see how it
goes.

also, the motor temperature was staying quite low.

Sam.

....
> >
> >
> > Samuel wrote:
> > > Just a follow up to my previous post.
> > >
> > > i rebuilt the stromberg 175 cd, then realised it wasn't a carby
problem
> > > (suppose i should be thankful though, forced my to rebuild it now
before
> it
> > > does go pear-shaped). i then replaced the points and condenser in the
> dizzy,
> > > and bingo. problem solved, but not for long.
> > >
> > > it started getting a little rough within about an hour of run-time.
now
> it's
> > > running badly but still driveable, but the more pressing issue is that
> the
> > > exhaust manifold is getting incredibly hot. so hot in fact that it was
> > > glowing red-hot after a 20 minute drive. now i'm no expert, but i
reckon
> > > this is no good! what on earth could be causing this to happen? i am
> very
> > > close to giving up and taking it to a mechanic, but if i get any ideas
i
> > > will try them out tomorrow. so please, give any suggestions and i will
> get
> > > back to you on progress.
> > >
> > > by the way, it is a 2.6 litre rover 6 cylinder petrol in a series 3
> > > landrover.
> > >
> > > Cheers.
> > >
> > > Sam.
> >
> > If it ran OK for an hour before going off, I'd reckon the timing has
> > slipped or the points have burnt out (bad condenser?). As to the excess
> > heat, sounds like running very weak or ignition badly retarded. Exhaust
> > definately shouldnt glow red. Back to the points/timing again.
> >
> > HTH
> > DaveP
> >
>
> As Dave says, there's only weak mixture and more likely badly retarded
> ignition will make the exhaust manifold glow. Double check ignition timing
> and make sure the distributor clamp isn't loose thereby moving on its own.
> Could be a restriction in the fuel supply as you said in your previous
post
> with gradual starvation, have you checked tank stand pipe filter or
blocked
> tank breathers?
> Siezed auto advance in dizzy? Twist rotor arm with fingers to check.
>
> Martin
>
>

Success at last, and no need for a journey down to the local mechanic. seems
you blokes were right from the beginning. i doubted it was an electrical
problem, but sure enough you guys were bang on. first it was the points and
the condensor, then this morning i worked out it was the vacuum advance. i
give it a few revs and no change in the timing, so i found it was an
incorrect sized flexible connection on the vacuum advance pipe. put some
insulation tape roud it and bingo, problem solved.

Thanks for all the help guys. hopefully i will be able to return the favour
at some stage.

Sam.

On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 09:23:10 +1000, "Samuel"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>thanks fellas. i will go and give the ignition system a once over again. one
>thing that came to me very late, was i had been tuning the motor with a
>timing gun while its running, assuming that tdc when running is the same as
>tdc when still (static vs dynamic tuning). this could be part of the
>problem. i will tune it precisely how the say in the manual and see how it
>goes.

I'm still learning petrol engines (diesels are much easier!), but i
thought that there should be no difference between setting the timing
when running at tick over and when the engine is off.
Or am i misunderstanding what you are saying?

I've never used a timing gun on a landy engine (ive always set them
when the engine is off using a test light, and then wiggling things by
ear).

I've used my timing light on my saab a bit though.

"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 8 Jul 2005 09:23:10 +1000, "Samuel"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >thanks fellas. i will go and give the ignition system a once over again.
one
> >thing that came to me very late, was i had been tuning the motor with a
> >timing gun while its running, assuming that tdc when running is the same
as
> >tdc when still (static vs dynamic tuning). this could be part of the
> >problem. i will tune it precisely how the say in the manual and see how
it
> >goes.
>
> I'm still learning petrol engines (diesels are much easier!), but i
> thought that there should be no difference between setting the timing
> when running at tick over and when the engine is off.
> Or am i misunderstanding what you are saying?
>
> I've never used a timing gun on a landy engine (ive always set them
> when the engine is off using a test light, and then wiggling things by
> ear).
>
> I've used my timing light on my saab a bit though.
>

G'day tom.

not sure about petrol being easier than diesel, other than the fact that
diesels never break down, but when they do there is generally sweet F all
you can do about it.

my understanding is that timing a motor dynamically and statically can be
quite different. as soon as the engine is spinning, there is a vacuum in the
vacuum advance, and the mechanically advance is doing just what its designed
to, mechanicaly advance the timing. this can give quite diferrent readings.

the manual says to turn motor by hand till desired timing mark on harmonic
balancer, then twist dizzy until point is just opening. this can be quite
inaccurate as all cams and joints up the dizzy have a bit of slack and it
can be quite hard to see the precise point where the point opens.

anyway, i think i've got it running pretty good now. set timing dynamically
(using timing gun with motor idling) and set it to 2degrees BTDC. is this
about right for the 2.6 petrol?

Sam.