More on Series III Springs

Bit of brain pickage if I may..

My Series III's just failed its MOT in spectacular style - but most
expensively on needing new front and rear springs. The best quote I've
had so far is about 550quid to do the replacement - so was wondering..
is this something I should consider doing myself?

Not really an 'experienced mechanic' but do have a Dad with all the
tools! Any hints / tips / suggestions? I'm assuming a weekend to do
the front and a weekend to do the rears, or is that a little
optimistic? Is the work its-self relatively straight forward?

Many thanks in advance..

M

On 24 Aug 2004 01:56:24 -0700, [email protected] (Mark Gowans) wrote:

>Bit of brain pickage if I may..
>
>My Series III's just failed its MOT in spectacular style - but most
>expensively on needing new front and rear springs. The best quote I've
>had so far is about 550quid to do the replacement - so was wondering..
>is this something I should consider doing myself?

Youre in the wrong place to be asking that question!.

What aspect of the springs did it actually fail on?.

>Not really an 'experienced mechanic' but do have a Dad with all the
>tools! Any hints / tips / suggestions? I'm assuming a weekend to do
>the front and a weekend to do the rears, or is that a little
>optimistic? Is the work its-self relatively straight forward?

It is a straight forward job, its just tricky as you have to
undo/remove a few stubborn bolts, and the springs are fairly heavy.

You should be able to do it all in one weekend, assuming it all goes
well.

All you have to do is seperate the axle from the springs (4 u-bolts),
and then remove the bolts at each end of the springs). then you just
need to swap them.
When I've done them in the past, ive been lazy and bought new u-bolts
and spring bolts so that i could just cut the old ones off.

The bolts at each end of the spring go through bushes in the chassis.
You may find that it is worth (or you need to) doing these at the same
time as the springs. this may take you more time, but its not a
complicated job!

In message <[email protected]>, Mark
Gowans <[email protected]> writes
>Bit of brain pickage if I may..
>
>My Series III's just failed its MOT in spectacular style - but most
>expensively on needing new front and rear springs. The best quote I've
>had so far is about 550quid to do the replacement - so was wondering..
>is this something I should consider doing myself?
>
>Not really an 'experienced mechanic' but do have a Dad with all the
>tools! Any hints / tips / suggestions? I'm assuming a weekend to do
>the front and a weekend to do the rears, or is that a little
>optimistic? Is the work its-self relatively straight forward?

You can have them re-tempered depending on how bad they are.

--
Regards
Graham Jones

I replaced mine last year in a day (a very long one).

The job should cost you less than £200 if you fit original spring and
replace all the U bolts and shackle bolts, my U bolts were removed easily
but I believe they can snap.

If you need new shocks and bushes add up to £80

The biggest problem is seized shackle bolts and the weight of the parts if
working alone.

I didn't need to replace the chassis bushes as they were all in tiptop
condition surprisingly. If you need to replace then consider using poly
bushes (c. £40) for ease of fitting if nothing else. Some people have strong
views on poly bushes (pro and con). Do a goggle search on removing the
bushes as it can be difficult.

I found that 2 sets of axle stands and ideally 2 jacks although it can be
done with less.

You could upgrade to parabolic springs, gas shocks and poly bushes + nuts
and bolts for about £500ish.

New OEM spring improved the ride of my S3, however I'm sure parabolic would
be better.




"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 24 Aug 2004 01:56:24 -0700, [email protected] (Mark Gowans) wrote:
>
> >Bit of brain pickage if I may..
> >
> >My Series III's just failed its MOT in spectacular style - but most
> >expensively on needing new front and rear springs. The best quote I've
> >had so far is about 550quid to do the replacement - so was wondering..
> >is this something I should consider doing myself?
>
> Youre in the wrong place to be asking that question!.
>
> What aspect of the springs did it actually fail on?.
>
> >Not really an 'experienced mechanic' but do have a Dad with all the
> >tools! Any hints / tips / suggestions? I'm assuming a weekend to do
> >the front and a weekend to do the rears, or is that a little
> >optimistic? Is the work its-self relatively straight forward?
>
> It is a straight forward job, its just tricky as you have to
> undo/remove a few stubborn bolts, and the springs are fairly heavy.
>
> You should be able to do it all in one weekend, assuming it all goes
> well.
>
> All you have to do is seperate the axle from the springs (4 u-bolts),
> and then remove the bolts at each end of the springs). then you just
> need to swap them.
> When I've done them in the past, ive been lazy and bought new u-bolts
> and spring bolts so that i could just cut the old ones off.
>
> The bolts at each end of the spring go through bushes in the chassis.
> You may find that it is worth (or you need to) doing these at the same
> time as the springs. this may take you more time, but its not a
> complicated job!
>

Tom Woods vaguely muttered something like ...
> On 24 Aug 2004 01:56:24 -0700, [email protected] (Mark Gowans) wrote:
>
>> Bit of brain pickage if I may..
>>
>> My Series III's just failed its MOT in spectacular style - but most
>> expensively on needing new front and rear springs. The best quote I've
>> had so far is about 550quid to do the replacement - so was wondering..
>> is this something I should consider doing myself?
>
> Youre in the wrong place to be asking that question!.
>
> What aspect of the springs did it actually fail on?.
>
>> Not really an 'experienced mechanic' but do have a Dad with all the
>> tools! Any hints / tips / suggestions? I'm assuming a weekend to do
>> the front and a weekend to do the rears, or is that a little
>> optimistic? Is the work its-self relatively straight forward?
>
> It is a straight forward job, its just tricky as you have to
> undo/remove a few stubborn bolts, and the springs are fairly heavy.
>
> You should be able to do it all in one weekend, assuming it all goes
> well.
>
> All you have to do is seperate the axle from the springs (4 u-bolts),
> and then remove the bolts at each end of the springs). then you just
> need to swap them.
> When I've done them in the past, ive been lazy and bought new u-bolts
> and spring bolts so that i could just cut the old ones off.
>
> The bolts at each end of the spring go through bushes in the chassis.
> You may find that it is worth (or you need to) doing these at the same
> time as the springs. this may take you more time, but its not a
> complicated job!

Totally agree with Tom.

Angle grinders are a wonderful tool, but wear goggles ..


--
Paul ...

(8(|) ... Homer Rocks

"A tosser is a tosser, no matter what mode of transport they're using."

"Mark Gowans" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bit of brain pickage if I may..
>
> My Series III's just failed its MOT in spectacular style - but most
> expensively on needing new front and rear springs. The best quote I've
> had so far is about 550quid to do the replacement - so was wondering..
> is this something I should consider doing myself?
>
> Not really an 'experienced mechanic' but do have a Dad with all the
> tools! Any hints / tips / suggestions? I'm assuming a weekend to do
> the front and a weekend to do the rears, or is that a little
> optimistic? Is the work its-self relatively straight forward?
Hi Mark

The springs themselves can be bought from about £16-£20 each if you check
around suppliers. The job isn't much fun if the bolts have siezed into the
shackles. Not even worth trying to undo the U bolts just cut and replace. A
set of new will only be £20 ish for the whole vehicle. It's worth using a
3/4" drive socket set and a big piece of scaffold tubing to get the bolts
undone. If you can undo them without using too much heat, then reuse, if
they're awful, then replace. They're quite expensive though, maybe £4 a bolt
sometimes. Re-assemble with loads of copper grease inside the bushes on the
threads. If the bushes look shot, then post again for a quick explaination
on their removal, involving heat and a hacksaw blade....

You'll need to fit new bushes into the new springs. Best way to do this is
with a long threaded bar some nuts and some big washers. Get a length of
threaded bar maybe M12 some normal nuts (not nyloc) and a few thick wahers
about 40mm outside dia. Put a wee bit of grease on the bushes and use the
threaded bar to pull them inot the hole, by tightening the nuts up, washers
either end. Don't hit the bushes with a hammer!! The above way is much
easier and much more successful. If you try and drift them in they will get
stuck part way and end up bent too.

Remember the springs are handed, the drivers' side have a couple more leaves
to compensate for the engine/box position. If you can't easily tell, just
put them down upside down and the higher one of the pair is the driver's.
The springs are symmetrical front to back (is doesn't matter whick way round
they go). I don't mean front to rear, you might have problems putting a set
of rear springs at the front, involving some welding!!!

All the best
Andy
Once you've fitted the springs, keep the U bolts and shackle bolts loose for
a while to let the vehicle settle. Going for a drive slowly along a bumpy
track helps here, though careful not to loose any of the nuts. We're only
talking half a turn loose here too!! Once the springs look to be sat level,
tighten up.