More EAS problems

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jimllshiftit

jimllshiftit

Active Member
Posts
235
Location
Warwickshire
Evenin'

I've just spent the afternoon sorting out the suspension on a '97 p38 diesel. The system would deflate over a few days if left alone and after some investigation around the system I decided a rebuilt valve block and compressor might help.

Today I fitted both those items but when I came to reinflate the system the dash board EAS lights came on and the "EAS FAULT" message popped up. As the compressor was still running I left it in the hope it would fill up the main air tank which it did but it then only inflated the back end. The front stayed pinned to the floor.

Thinking my valve block rebuild might be to blame I put the old block back on but the same thing happened again.

All the airsprings are only a couple of years old and appear to be in good nick, but while the pump was running I could hear the occassional psst of air from one rear spring.

At the moment I have the compressor running forever and a day fitted to the old untouched valve block, the back end of the car right up in the air and the front end on the floor. I can clear the EAS fault but the up/down button on the dash doesn't do anything although the orange lights work like normal (one solid, one flashing).

Any ideas?
 
jimllshiftit said:
Evenin'

I've just spent the afternoon sorting out the suspension on a '97 p38 diesel. The system would deflate over a few days if left alone and after some investigation around the system I decided a rebuilt valve block and compressor might help.

They will often drop if left a few days, from memory 15mm in 24 hours is deemed OK

Today I fitted both those items but when I came to reinflate the system the dash board EAS lights came on and the "EAS FAULT" message popped up. As the compressor was still running I left it in the hope it would fill up the main air tank which it did but it then only inflated the back end. The front stayed pinned to the floor.

Sounds like you have got something wrong, check for bent pushed back or damaged pins in the EAS connectors.

Thinking my valve block rebuild might be to blame I put the old block back on but the same thing happened again.

All the airsprings are only a couple of years old and appear to be in good nick, but while the pump was running I could hear the occassional psst of air from one rear spring.

So you have a leak to investigate.

At the moment I have the compressor running forever and a day fitted to the old untouched valve block, the back end of the car right up in the air and the front end on the floor. I can clear the EAS fault but the up/down button on the dash doesn't do anything although the orange lights work like normal (one solid, one flashing).

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Clearing the EAS fault without looking to see what fault is recorded is not helpful. Come back with the actual fault.
The UP/DOWN button is not going to do anything obvious with your current problem. The lights indicate it's trying to lift as it should.
 
You say you can hear air from one of the rear springs? Have you tried removing the pipes and putting in again? I think if you get it wrong you can damage the little o-rings where it goes in the cap of the rear spring, pretty sure I remember someone had that once.

A year or so ago I hit a pothole and it actually loosened the end cap enough to make it leak. I replaced it with a new bag even though the old one was only about a year old. I've still got the other one in the garage while I try to make up my mind if it is repairable or not!
 
These are the faults it keeps throwing up:

3 : F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : Cannot lower FR
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden

When I came back to the car to check what I had done I noticed each of the plugs to the driver pack and the valve block were put together wrongly. Now they are on the corect way around but the faults keep getting thrown up.

What have I bust?
 
jimllshiftit said:
These are the faults it keeps throwing up:

3 : F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : Cannot lower FR
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden

When I came back to the car to check what I had done I noticed each of the plugs to the driver pack and the valve block were put together wrongly. Now they are on the corect way around but the faults keep getting thrown up.

What have I bust?
Click to expand...

You have bad communication with the ECU. How can you have a valve stuck shut and open at the same time. Good idle is needed at all times solid green light.
 
Has anyone else had problems finding which comms port they're plugged into on windows 7. It doesn't show the comms port number when the USB is plugged in like it used to with XP.

That aside the car is now fine. I can't explain why or how but while trying to find the comms port the orange lights stopped flashing, the suspension started going up and down correctly and it does not go into fault mode. As mentioned above I couldn't get the computer to communicate properly yet somehow we cleared the fault. No leaks so far so all appears OK.

Thanks for your support.

Jim
 
jimllshiftit said:
Has anyone else had problems finding which comms port they're plugged into on windows 7. It doesn't show the comms port number when the USB is plugged in like it used to with XP.

That aside the car is now fine. I can't explain why or how but while trying to find the comms port the orange lights stopped flashing, the suspension started going up and down correctly and it does not go into fault mode. As mentioned above I couldn't get the computer to communicate properly yet somehow we cleared the fault. No leaks so far so all appears OK.

Thanks for your support.

Jim
Click to expand...

I run windows 7 and had to go down the list of comm ports till I found one that worked. Think it was port 9 but after running the software the first time it will now only run on port 2.:confused::confused::confused::)
 
Thats exactly what I had to do but the best I could muster was the read outs I posted earlier. There must be a better way of doing it with windows 7 but i've not found it yet.
 
jimllshiftit said:
Has anyone else had problems finding which comms port they're plugged into on windows 7. It doesn't show the comms port number when the USB is plugged in like it used to with XP.

That aside the car is now fine. I can't explain why or how but while trying to find the comms port the orange lights stopped flashing, the suspension started going up and down correctly and it does not go into fault mode. As mentioned above I couldn't get the computer to communicate properly yet somehow we cleared the fault. No leaks so far so all appears OK.

Thanks for your support.

Jim
Click to expand...
Did you load and install the correct USB to serial driver for Win 7 BEFORE you plugged the adaptor in to the computer? If not, Win 7 will have loaded a generic driver that will not work. You will have to delete the incorrect driver and install the correct one.
Unless you get the GREEN Good Idle button on the software, you have no communication with the EAS.
 
as Datatek says.. the driver etc is a pain in the Arse...... i had to clear everything from my 'old' steam powered laptop and start again, also had a 'cheap' chineese serial adapter that just wouldn't work with the drivers.. a proper Belkin one worked right off the bat
 
chopper007 said:
as Datatek says.. the driver etc is a pain in the Arse...... i had to clear everything from my 'old' steam powered laptop and start again, also had a 'cheap' chineese serial adapter that just wouldn't work with the drivers.. a proper Belkin one worked right off the bat
Click to expand...
A lot of the cheap adaptors only have send and receive lines, the EAS requires the request to send line so needs a full RS232 implementation in the adaptor.:)
 
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