Major oil leak

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mattfletcher

New Member
Posts
147
Location
walsall, west midlands
Hi guys, looks like my p38 4.0 has got a major oil leak, seems to be losing 4 litres every 4 days or so, big big mess on the road and my drive lol. Had a quick look on the ramp when it was being moted and it looks like the rear crank seal. (well thats what Im going for at the minute). Obviously engine or box out then, and after consulting autodata the gearbox looks the quicker option at just under 6 hours. Just wondering if anyone has any tips to make the removal easier? I will be doing it on my back on my drive. :-(. Just wondering also if the box is going to need setting up or anything else once Ive removed it and put it back in etc? Any help would be much appreciated, not really looking forward to it at all..
 
I've never done a RangeRover box but from accounts on here, they're extremely bloody heavy and it's not recommended to do the way you want to do it. I know needs must though so if you do, make sure you have a jack or something secure under it. You will not be able to hold it up on your own and it will hurt if you drop it. Very much.
Having said that, good luck with it. (And you didn't say whether it was a manual or auto).
 
Thanks Derek, its an auto. Im used to working on my back, I imagine its heavy, we done a 110 county at work on a ramp and it took three of us and two transmission jacks. Thats what Im dreading getting the bloody thing back in!!!
 
I replaced the DMF and clutch in my manual DSE and left the transfer box on the gearbox and managed it on my back.

I used 3 jacks under the whole lot, one being a transmission Jack. It almost ended up on the floor! But with patience and the use of my brain, I got it back together perfectly. But it was tricky to say the least.

I had to Jack the front of the engine up to get the input shaft back in, this made a huge difference and it would of never gone back together otherwise.
 
If its an auto:

make sure you wiggle the torque convertor around when refitting to make sure it seats correctly on the pump drive ring or you will crack your pump and write yer autobox off
 
transfer box is not relavant to the tourque convertor as its on the other end of the box. you can leave it on but it will make it heavy!!!

I cannot honestly say how you will know if it its on right as it will be you feeling it, you need to either move it around enough so the teeth have to have engaged or fit it onto the box off the car where you can see it better and get the teeth lined up right and then wedge it into place through the access hole in the bellhousing. this is a critical step!!

when you put it all back together if it seems like there is a gap between the bell housing and the engine dont just wind up the bolts and thats when it will crack the pump, the gap is because the teeth arnt in.

when you have the box off and torque convertor out look on the end of the main shaft in the bellhousing and you will see the teeth I mean.

Its hard to explain! :doh:
 
yes but you have two sets of spline one for the main shaft and one for the pump and they are both to go on the same thing, can be tricky I have seen two peeps make that mistake on here this year and its new box time then
 
Undoing torque convertor from flex plate and removing with box is correct method. Refit with torque convertor engaged on box. You have a serious job on your hands doing that on your back. Have done it many times it is not easy. Far easier to take engine out single handed if you have an engine crane or can borrow one than it is to remove gearbox.
 
Last edited:
I have done this on the floor. Take the transfer box off its only 6 bolts.
Check out rave it tells you all you need to know about the torque converter etc.
Time wise a hard day to get it out and at least a day to get it in and good trolley jacks.
 
Make sure you remove the flexplate from the crankshaft while you have access to it they crack around the mounting bolts.Mine looked okay but had cracked all tha way round!
 
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