LT77 / LT230 repairs

OK... I know some of the answers but not all - The transmission in the disco
is as clonky as a clonky thing, and some of it seems like the infamous shaft
wear problem, (in fact, most - there's nothing obviously wrong anywhere
else, and the noises come from the "right" place).

So...

1) What sort of a job is it replacing the output shaft and the transfer box
input gear (with a suitably coss-drilled one, natch)?
2) Does the operation need any special tools, and if so what?
3) Am I right in assuming it can't be done in situ, i.e. that the box has
got to come out?
4) anyone want to quote for the shaft + gear and any gaskets/seals which are
known to get buggered in the process?

In article <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> writes
>
>1) What sort of a job is it replacing the output shaft and the transfer box
>input gear (with a suitably coss-drilled one, natch)?
>2) Does the operation need any special tools, and if so what?
>3) Am I right in assuming it can't be done in situ, i.e. that the box has
>got to come out?
>4) anyone want to quote for the shaft + gear and any gaskets/seals which are
>known to get buggered in the process?
>


1) It is a sod

2) yes you need a very deep puller to get the spacer off the mainshaft

3) you can replace the transfer gear without disturbing hardly anything.
but the mainshaft is every last nut, bolt washer etc. i.e.: a complete
gearbox rebuild.

4) no! But seriously most of the gaskets you come across are liquid. or
can be replaced by liquid. when it comes to seals if you touch it
replace it the same can be said for the bearings too, saves you doing it
again next week.

Best advice is get it done by a trusted pro.

Hope this helps
--
Marc Draper

Forsale

Landrover Defender 90 300tdi county hardtop 1996 72K
Landrover Discovery comercial 300tdi S reg 70k
Landrover Discovery Comercial 300tdi R reg 62k
Toyota Hilux surf 2.4 AW/AC/EW/SR

Super winch X9 + genuine Landrover fitting kits for 200 Disco.

On or around Mon, 4 Oct 2004 20:21:18 +0100, marc
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles
><[email protected]> writes
>>
>>1) What sort of a job is it replacing the output shaft and the transfer box
>>input gear (with a suitably coss-drilled one, natch)?
>>2) Does the operation need any special tools, and if so what?
>>3) Am I right in assuming it can't be done in situ, i.e. that the box has
>>got to come out?
>>4) anyone want to quote for the shaft + gear and any gaskets/seals which are
>>known to get buggered in the process?
>>
>
>
>1) It is a sod
>
>2) yes you need a very deep puller to get the spacer off the mainshaft
>
>3) you can replace the transfer gear without disturbing hardly anything.
>but the mainshaft is every last nut, bolt washer etc. i.e.: a complete
>gearbox rebuild.
>
>4) no! But seriously most of the gaskets you come across are liquid. or
>can be replaced by liquid. when it comes to seals if you touch it
>replace it the same can be said for the bearings too, saves you doing it
>again next week.
>
>Best advice is get it done by a trusted pro.
>
>Hope this helps

sort of. makes the crappy disco I know about with a sound gearbox more
attractive. Now all I have to do is convince the guy that it's a good idea
to have me swap the decent 200 TDi from that to the Rangie he's got with a
shagged 2.4 VM in it, and pay me by donating said gearbox

actually, if they were my vehicles that's exactly what I'd do - the rangie
is sound bodywork-wise, but has a tired engine. The disco is seriously
rusty and has various bodywork problems, but has a nice sound 200 TDi in it.

In article <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> writes
>sort of. makes the crappy disco I know about with a sound gearbox more
>attractive. Now all I have to do is convince the guy that it's a good idea
>to have me swap the decent 200 TDi from that to the Rangie he's got with a
>shagged 2.4 VM in it, and pay me by donating said gearbox


Sorry to wee on your fireworks.

I think he will be better off fitting the gearbox too. I know that the
bell housings are different between tdi and VM not sure about the length
of the input shaft etc.

Thankfully I have little to do with VM classics. I know lee D will say
different but they are ****e. My neighbour had one from new and I used
to hide every time he came into the workshop with it. Give it it's due
though when it wasn't blowing up it did pull ok.

You might end up with a free transfer box though ;-)
--
Marc Draper

Forsale

Landrover Defender 90 300tdi county hardtop 1996 72K
Landrover Discovery comercial 300tdi S reg 70k
Landrover Discovery Comercial 300tdi R reg 62k
Toyota Hilux surf 2.4 AW/AC/EW/SR

Super winch X9 + genuine Landrover fitting kits for 200 Disco.

On or around Mon, 4 Oct 2004 22:18:59 +0100, marc
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Sorry to wee on your fireworks.
>
>I think he will be better off fitting the gearbox too. I know that the
>bell housings are different between tdi and VM not sure about the length
>of the input shaft etc.

this one is a conversion to a V8, though. dunno if it brought its own
gearbox with it, or if it still has the original.

"marc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Thankfully I have little to do with VM classics. I know lee D will say
> different but they are ****e. My neighbour had one from new and I used to
> hide every time he came into the workshop with it. Give it it's due though
> when it wasn't blowing up it did pull ok.

Well from a point of maintainance and parts availability then the TDI has
got to be the better option given the short production run of VM engined
Rangies. The fact they also had 2.4 VM's and 2.5 VM's makes the parts
swapping process that little bit more tricky. I can throughly recommend
www.vmspecialist.com for any one who has one though. These engines are
pounding away in many different areas , marine, generators etc etc with some
6 cylinder versions available too.

I forget the exact figures but on paper the VM is the better engine.

Main issue has always been the heads.. or head gaskets. I've said before and
will no doubt again I'm convinced it problems stem from lack of proper
maintainance such as re tightening the head bolts every 40000 miles I think
it was.

Like all the other engines they have there weak spot. V8's Cams, Tdi's
Timing belts etc etc.

If I were to go out now knowing what I know would I buy another VM engined
Rangie... No, purely from the point of spares in the long term.

If she blows again then I think I'll be looking to a 300tdi.

Some boys and girls on the lre forum have plonked V8's in VM engined
motors.. the gearing needed sorting but I'm sure there posts will work in
reversal i.e. V8 box to VM engine IYSWIM.



Lee D

Lee_D wrote:
> "marc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Main issue has always been the heads.. or head gaskets. I've said
> before and will no doubt again I'm convinced it problems stem from
> lack of proper maintainance such as re tightening the head bolts
> every 40000 miles I think it was.
>

The six centre head bolts by a certain angle twelve thousand miles
from new and twelve thousand miles after the heads had been removed
and replaced.
Main dealers, the inept shower that they generally are, seldom
bothered with this essential one-off maintenance.
Heads were a problem for this reason and indirectly because the
cooling system was iffy. The header tank was low set in some versions
and also radiators commonly leaked slowly at the ends resulting in
overheating. This meant death to alloy heads which became soft and
distorted after overheating.

Well maintained, these engines last well. They were never the most
refined or the most torquey of engines. In fact they were plain
underspecified for Range Rover and never should have been used in a
premium heavy-weight product. Although one has to allow for the
passing of time and remember this was a previous generation. In fact
the VM was first used in RR in 1986, which is 18 years ago. Diesel
engines have leapt forward in quality and refinment since those days.

Huw


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In message <[email protected]>
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> OK... I know some of the answers but not all - The transmission in the disco
> is as clonky as a clonky thing, and some of it seems like the infamous shaft
> wear problem, (in fact, most - there's nothing obviously wrong anywhere
> else, and the noises come from the "right" place).
>
> So...
>
> 1) What sort of a job is it replacing the output shaft and the transfer box
> input gear (with a suitably coss-drilled one, natch)?

Not *too* bad - but you will need a lomg puller and/or soemthing to
apply heat - the "old" RRC Haynes book gives info on how to do the job.

> 2) Does the operation need any special tools, and if so what?

Puller and heat - the puller shold be hireable from HSS or whatever,
or you could get someone to to do that bit for you.

> 3) Am I right in assuming it can't be done in situ, i.e. that the box has
> got to come out?

Correct - if the gear needs changing then the shaft needs doing to.

> 4) anyone want to quote for the shaft + gear and any gaskets/seals which are
> known to get buggered in the process?
>

Main shaft - 82.95 inc VAT, T'box gear 36.42 inc VAT, LT77 Gasket/Seal
Set 6.98 inc VAT, Oil Flinger (probably needed due to knackering
it getting it off) 14.91 inc VAT, Oil seal collar 3.14 inc VAT,
LT230 Gasket/Seal Set 10.57 inc VAT.

Unless the the boxes have been run without oil or you
are unlucky, the bearings will be ok.

Cheers
Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
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On or around Tue, 5 Oct 2004 08:13:45 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Main shaft - 82.95 inc VAT, T'box gear 36.42 inc VAT, LT77 Gasket/Seal
>Set 6.98 inc VAT, Oil Flinger (probably needed due to knackering
>it getting it off) 14.91 inc VAT, Oil seal collar 3.14 inc VAT,
>LT230 Gasket/Seal Set 10.57 inc VAT.
>
>Unless the the boxes have been run without oil or you
>are unlucky, the bearings will be ok.

it all runs and changes gear OK.

However, I may look at getting a second hand one to put in either instead or
as well as fixing this one. Very limited time for fixing things on that
scale - the vehicle has to be on the road all week every week, bar for
school holidays. swapping the box would allow time to fix this one nicely
and have it ready to put back.