lower swivels

I need to replace a lower swivel on my Disco 2,any handy hints and tips?

Looking at it , hub and driveshaft need to move out of the way.
Presumably the official method involves some sort of press tool.
I sense a bit of a stressful job here...
Cheers, Jim.

You can use a flat circle punch to knock the bearing outer race out and a goog fiting socket or the old outer ring to tap the new one in no specialist tools needed , just make sure you tap it in Straight your hear the tone change when it reaches its seat.
Your find this usefull
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601

Are you guys talking about the same variant of Discovery ? TD5 (series 2) against a series 1 ?

chrimcne said:

Are you guys talking about the same variant of Discovery ? TD5 (series 2) against a series 1 ?

Click to expand...

Yes, its a TD5.A conventional sealed ball joint.
not the old disco 1, with rollers etc.
I'm talking about a lower ball joint, looks pressed into the axle casing.
Plan on beating the old one out, then using the weight of the car plus some "persuasion" to get the new one in.

Thanks for your reply, bit new to the ways of Landrovers!
jim.

Grit Valve said:

You can use a flat circle punch to knock the bearing outer race out and a goog fiting socket or the old outer ring to tap the new one in no specialist tools needed , just make sure you tap it in Straight your hear the tone change when it reaches its seat.
Your find this usefull
stripping a Disco front hub/swivel replacment - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, this is for the earlier type.

cheers , Jim.

hi, its a job I got planned to do soon. so have done a bit of research. local garages either wanted £200 a side or didn't want to know as a pig of a job.
I bought a press from ebay supposedly for this type of job. the drive shafts do need to come out and you can disconnect the abs sensor from the loom. saves having to take it out of the hub. I`ve been led to believe a lot of heat, penetrating fluid and cursing helps. very important they go back in square.
got most of my info from d2 forum.
good luck, steve

xat44 said:

hi, its a job I got planned to do soon. so have done a bit of research. local garages either wanted £200 a side or didn't want to know as a pig of a job.
I bought a press from ebay supposedly for this type of job. the drive shafts do need to come out and you can disconnect the abs sensor from the loom. saves having to take it out of the hub. I`ve been led to believe a lot of heat, penetrating fluid and cursing helps. very important they go back in square.
got most of my info from d2 forum.
good luck, steve

Click to expand...

Thanks mate, half way through it, and running out of curses!
It is a pig, will update later, Jim.

Right, 6 hours later, it is done.
This is how I did it, not the official way no doubt.
Firstly, turn the freezer to max cold and put your new ball joint in there overnight.Cold contracts.

Remove the front hub and driveshaft as one,then the whole knuckle.
Getting the lower taper to pop out was extra griefy, I cut the threaded end down a bit and used a normal separator.

Getting the old joint out took ages.
Hammering gets it moving about 1/4" only.
The way round this was to cut the bottom half off, remove the ball,and drill a hole through the upper centre of the old joint.
Using a small cutting disc, cut a few lines across the top, like a star,then hacksaw through the remains of the joint.
This removes the tension off the joint in the casing, and it can be walloped out.
Clean up the casing, warm up using a blowlamp, and the quickly line up the new joint.
I pressed it in using a sleeve and a bottle jack, the weight of the car being supported on it.
Careful hitting of the axle casing allowed the
joint to sit home.

And that's it. a real pig, but nicer steering at the end of it.

Enjoy yourselves!
Jim.