Low power woes

Hello
I’m reposting this cry for help as I put it in the wrong place earlier.
I’ve been the proud owner of my 2010 3.6 Range Rover for the past 5 years and in that time it has never broken down. Then, during lockdown the car went into limp mode and I found I had to replace the left side EGR. I did both to be on the safe side.
Sadly, once fixed the Mechanic’s computer found one of the turbos had failed .
Being a belt and braces kind of guy I had both turbos replaced...I picked the car up and enjoyed 250 miles of full power with old girl running better than ever the car went into limp mode and repeated this every 250 miles or so and practically in the same place (about 3 miles from home)
Restarting the car cleared the limp mode and all is well again until 2 weeks ago when it wouldn’t clear.
Once again to the garage and the computer once again said “no” and demanded I replace an air flow sensor on the intake manifold (under the engine cowling).. That was an easy fix.....I did both just to be safe.
Sadly, the computer threw another tantrum and insisted I replace the air flow sensor attached to the air filter..I replaced both just to be safe. The mechanic said there was an underboost error so I changed both hoses from the intercooler. (Just to be safe) but I still have an engine that won’t run very well..
It’s a real shame as this has been anamazing vehicle but garages only read codes nowadays. Is there anyone out there who can help please. I’m not asking for free help and will gladly pay or donate to a charity of choice for help that fixes my much loved Range Rover.
Kind regards

Welcome to LandyZone

You need an indie that knows the tdv8 or a member to have a look at it ideally

Always start with the simple/cheap diy stuff first...
RRs require a lot of electric power, check you battery voltage is always a good idea. Weak one can cause phantoms and issues impossible to track as brains can go bit cray with low voltages.

This thread would get better advice in the RR section.

TurboTim said:

Hello
I’m reposting this cry for help as I put it in the wrong place earlier.
I’ve been the proud owner of my 2010 3.6 Range Rover for the past 5 years and in that time it has never broken down. Then, during lockdown the car went into limp mode and I found I had to replace the left side EGR. I did both to be on the safe side.
Sadly, once fixed the Mechanic’s computer found one of the turbos had failed .
Being a belt and braces kind of guy I had both turbos replaced...I picked the car up and enjoyed 250 miles of full power with old girl running better than ever the car went into limp mode and repeated this every 250 miles or so and practically in the same place (about 3 miles from home)
Restarting the car cleared the limp mode and all is well again until 2 weeks ago when it wouldn’t clear.
Once again to the garage and the computer once again said “no” and demanded I replace an air flow sensor on the intake manifold (under the engine cowling).. That was an easy fix.....I did both just to be safe.
Sadly, the computer threw another tantrum and insisted I replace the air flow sensor attached to the air filter..I replaced both just to be safe. The mechanic said there was an underboost error so I changed both hoses from the intercooler. (Just to be safe) but I still have an engine that won’t run very well..
It’s a real shame as this has been anamazing vehicle but garages only read codes nowadays. Is there anyone out there who can help please. I’m not asking for free help and will gladly pay or donate to a charity of choice for help that fixes my much loved Range Rover.
Kind regards

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

Welcome to LandyZone

You need an indie that knows the tdv8 or a member to have a look at it ideally

Always start with the simple/cheap diy stuff first...
RRs require a lot of electric power, check you battery voltage is always a good idea. Weak one can cause phantoms and issues impossible to track as brains can go bit cray with low voltages.

This thread would get better advice in the RR section.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

Welcome to LandyZone

You need an indie that knows the tdv8 or a member to have a look at it ideally

Always start with the simple/cheap diy stuff first...
RRs require a lot of electric power, check you battery voltage is always a good idea. Weak one can cause phantoms and issues impossible to track as brains can go bit cray with low voltages.

This thread would get better advice in the RR section.

Click to expand...

Many thanks for your reply RangeRoller.
I changed the battery when the turbos were replaced 3 months back so that should be ok.
I’ve located an indie and will make contact on Monday. It’s always a worry entrusting something you care for to strangers but I have no choice.
You’re right about where I should post this thread too but I can’t seem to navigate the site too well.
Have a great weekend
T

A battery can go flat in 3 months from drain or sometimes they’ve been sitting on a shelf for years
Easy check with a digital multimeter

RR section is in here bud
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/range-rover.10/

Any problems just ask

Just seen you’ve found it

RangeRoller dt said:

A battery can go flat in 3 months from drain or sometimes they’ve been sitting on a shelf for years
Easy check with a digital multimeter

RR section is in here bud
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/range-rover.10/

Any problems just ask

Click to expand...

Thanks again RangeRoller.
I’d suspect she’s got COVID-19 if wasn’t for the fact she’s hardly been outside since lockdown....That’s making me think again about the battery.. I’ll have it checked.
T

That seems a lot of faults.
Has the mechanic checked the items are faulty and not an issue with ecu or bad earthing?

TurboTim said:

Thanks again RangeRoller.
I’d suspect she’s got COVID-19 if wasn’t for the fact she’s hardly been outside since lockdown....That’s making me think again about the battery.. I’ll have it checked.
T

Click to expand...

Range rovers eat battery`s for breakfast and can drain if left and need a really good run to charge them back up, get a digital multi meter they are only a few quid and very useful your battery should be 12.6v min engine of and above 14.5 running at 2000rpm with lights and heater ect on, low volt will throw up all sorts of phantom faults .

@TurboTim, how did you get on with the repair?