really?I need a chip
& a new gearbox
lookjng for a new p38 advuce sought
- Thread starter langley
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& a new gearbox
stjohnsmythe
Active Member
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Exactly, overheat a petrol and you got problems, overheat a diesel and you've got problems too!
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
An upgrade to an HP24 box is straightforward and can be done for £300 or less if you DIY, still less than a top hat block
markav8r
Member
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- Northern Ireland
P38 diesels are sweet on veg oil. Can't get cheaper motoring than that! (Assuming you can get cheap or free used oil).
JohnnyCrash
New Member
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Plenty of other types of oils out there it will run on if you can't get any WVO and don't want to pay for SVO
some even have a much higher calorific value than WVO, SVO and some higher even than Dino Diesel meaning less cost more go!
mines costing me less than 10p a litre to make and getting around 24mpg (dash says 28 the liar) but I spend 99% of the time on the motorway, meaning just over 500 miles per tank!
now, doesn't mean trouble free motoring though!! I've had my share of issues, and taken me a while to get the mix right for winter and summer
markav8r
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Yes, agreed, but Veg is legal, without paying extra tax! Up to 2500 litres a year. It's easy to dilute in winter if you really need to. I normally run 100% all year.
JohnnyCrash
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100% veggie in -10 deg
I think I could walk faster!
I think I could walk faster!
markav8r
Member
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- Northern Ireland
I've been in -5.c. Have 4 heating systems. See post on newbies section. WVO still heats well. I do keep car in warm garage though which helps. The return fuel is also heated so that helps too.
JohnnyCrash
New Member
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4 heating systems?! do you run 2 batteries and alternators?
Lets say you have a full (ish) tank of oil 80+ litres, how long would you have to run a heater to get it warm enough to start?
plus you would need to extend this heating system along the fuel lines under the car as this is where most of freezing fuel issue is, then the fuel filter would need heating, seems like a lot of work just to run on veg oil?? Why not just winterise your fuel?! Seems a lot easier? what if you can't park it in your garage??
Lets say you have a full (ish) tank of oil 80+ litres, how long would you have to run a heater to get it warm enough to start?
plus you would need to extend this heating system along the fuel lines under the car as this is where most of freezing fuel issue is, then the fuel filter would need heating, seems like a lot of work just to run on veg oil?? Why not just winterise your fuel?! Seems a lot easier? what if you can't park it in your garage??
Last edited:
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Re-read, he heats the pipes and filter, you don't have to heat all 80 litres as long as you have a pump that will handle waxed oil which his gear pump presumably does.
JohnnyCrash
New Member
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Seems like a lot of work for just being able to run on WVO??
winterise the oil you wish to use as fuel and the standard lift pump, FIP will be fine and no add on heating kit is needed?
markav8r
Member
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- Northern Ireland
What would you winterise veg oil with? Probably best would be kerosene, and a small amount of petrol. Some people run veg 50/50 with diesel. Others 75/25 with kerosene. One is legal, the other you should volunteer the duty on.
My aim was to reduce cost and solve the problem of waste veg oil which I have building up.
As for cost - well running dino diesel for 10k miles, 27mpg, with dino diesel at £1.37 / litre = £2308
Cost of my conversion < £1500 so paid for in eight months of motoring.
Seriously though, I spent another £1500 on a filtering setup which virtually automates the filtering. So now my "breakeven" point is 16 months, or 13k miles.
If I were paying say 25p per litre of waste oil (as many people do) my cost for 10k miles is £420 in fuel! Another way of looking at it is - when a 4x4 is made that does 120mpg then its time for me to change.
As for the heating of the veg - yes, its heated all the way from the tank to the final changeover valve 1' away from the injector pump. The return fuel goes back into the tank where it helps keep things liquid. I havent had any problems with veg waxing yet, and I operated down to -5c. If it gets to the point of waxing, I'll see the symptoms i.e fuel starvation - rather than let the engine stop, I simply flick a switch back to the dino diesel tank. Similar situation occurs when the veg oil filter gets sufficiently clogged, meaning I can safely continue on my journey, and change the filter later.
Some people in the USA run a coolant heating coil in the fuel tank. In our climate I havent even needed to winterise my veg (although sometimes I have put some diesel in when away from base).
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