Lil bastard shaft

So I looked up threads about removing the donut locating stub from a disco axle, as it's going into my 90. Might be easy, might be hard was the view.

Felling pleased with myself for making up a puller using the hub nut spanner and a scrap belt idler, I heated the flange to blue, and turned the nut. result - stud stripped.

I then used a land rover flanged bolt, as it might be of better steel. Result - bolt snapped.

A visit to the local agricultural merchant for the highest tensile bolt they had in stock, bolt snapped again.

I'm off the Bury to a place where I should be able to get the best quality bolt without a special order, and a bigger torch for my propane tank. I then intend to heat the fecking flange to as close to red as I can, and try once more.

Am I missing anything here? There is clearance under the idler, so it's not jamming up.

I removed one yesterday it was a piece of ****! although my axle is in the garage fully stripped apart from the diff so stuck in on axle stands to do this.

Was gonna buy a slide hammer which would be the appropriate way to do it but instead used a piece of angle iron and a long m8 bolt.

Got the nose of the diff pointing down, drilled a hole in one end of the angle (was about 2ft long), put the m8 bolt through said drilled hole, then put the bolt in the locator and tightened it up.

I then proceeded to smack the angle downwards with a very large hammer and 6 hits later it popped out

Didn't even need to heat the flange up at all.

From what I can see of you photos you will be pushing the flange back on with that setup. That may be why you breaking bolts!

Groomers said:

From what I can see of you photos you will be pushing the flange back on with that setup. That may be why you breaking bolts!

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It's not the triangular flange but the small locator stub flange that fits inside it. Has to come off so I can undo the flange retaining nuts. Plus gas and a hammer have also been involved.

robbh said:

I removed one yesterday it was a piece of ****! although my axle is in the garage fully stripped apart from the diff so stuck in on axle stands to do this.

Was gonna buy a slide hammer which would be the appropriate way to do it but instead used a piece of angle iron and a long m8 bolt.

Got the nose of the diff pointing down, drilled a hole in one end of the angle (was about 2ft long), put the m8 bolt through said drilled hole, then put the bolt in the locator and tightened it up.

I then proceeded to smack the angle downwards with a very large hammer and 6 hits later it popped out

Didn't even need to heat the flange up at all.

Click to expand...

Slide hammer sounded like a good idea. I don't have one, so made one out of a heavy steel bar and the threaded studding. Dragged the diff all around the floor, but didn't shift the shaft at all. So I hung the lot from my hoist, heated it to dull red, and hit the outer flange with progressively larger hammers. Still hasn't moved!:frusty:

Now I'm either going to weld something strong onto the shaft and improvise a puller, or cut the bugger off with a cutting disk or three.

can't upload pics for some reeason

The hubnut socket is too long, so the M8 stretches, hence stripping out.

Use a shorter socket and proper M8 bolt with washers and a nut. **** easy ..

When I did mine,it involved heat and a big hammer to beat it side to side. The diff was still in axle and landy on a lift

Paul D said:

The hubnut socket is too long, so the M8 stretches, hence stripping out.

Use a shorter socket and proper M8 bolt with washers and a nut. **** easy ..

Click to expand...

The high tensile bolts were with the belt idler alone, as there was enough clearence to let the centre shaft move a few mill. They snapped as well, well lubed and flange hot. I might give the side to side trick a go, it might break whatever is bonding the shafts together. Can't be loctite, as the flange has been dull red, any loctite has long ago burnt away.

Use an angle grinder to cut around the flange roughly in the middle then the 3 bolt part with the centre will fall off and you can undo the nut inside and remove what's left if the flange. Iv had to do it a couple of times.

Mark

Mark151151 said:

Use an angle grinder to cut around the flange roughly in the middle then the 3 bolt part with the centre will fall off and you can undo the nut inside and remove what's left if the flange. Iv had to do it a couple of times.

Mark

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Thanks Mark, I've been thinking along those lines but wasn't sure where to cut. I was worried that the collar might be left on, shrouding the nut and making it impossible to get a socket on.

If I remember right I cut around 10 mm in from the side side of the flange. Just work your way round it slowly, once you think your at the right depth give it a few taps to see if it moves. Don't hit it hard as you could damage bearings. You might not need to hit it as it can just fall off if cut right.

Cheers

Mark151151 said:

If I remember right I cut around 10 mm in from the side side of the flange. Just work your way round it slowly, once you think your at the right depth give it a few taps to see if it moves. Don't hit it hard as you could damage bearings. You might not need to hit it as it can just fall off if cut right.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Thanks mate, ill try that

It's off at last. I cut halfway along the flange circular section. There was plenty of room between the inner wall of the flange and the retaining nut, so if your careful there should be no problem.

I cut a diagonal slot once I had almost cut through, and tapped a screwdriver in to widen it. The end fell off.
I would have included photos but keep getting a message that a security token is missing.