Leaking Diff

Hi all,
We recently bought a series 2A, the previous owner removed the front propshaft for economy ( ?? ). I've reinstalled it after replacing the split rubber gaiter, everything was ok before I put the propshaft back. I made sure that it was fitted with the rubber gaiter closest to the diff, however, as soon as I bolted the the prop on, the front diff started leaking.
It didn't leak when there was no prop attached and it leaks with the prop attached.
Is it possible I've made the prop too short after replacing the rubber gaiter and damaged the seal or, is it more likely that the seal was already knackered?

The seal was probably knackered it's a 2a, likely may be the original seal. I assume you don't have fee wheeling hubs? If not when in two wheel drive even though your not in four wheel drive the prop shaft, drive shafts and differential are rotating when you are driving. See other thread in this section on replacing the oil seal. The solution is also to fit FWH's if you can source secondhand ones. Fairey or Bearmach are the most common types.

It does have free wheeling hubs, they don't appear to have any way of locking them. I'll study up on how to change the seal.
Thanks for replying

What type of fwh? Some operate by turning the whole assembly clockwise to engage and anti to disengage. Others have a lug in the centre that you turn to engage.

The hub's may be of the so called automatic type which engage and disengage on their own.They are rubbish and can sometimes switch in and out very rapidly putting a lot off stress on the drive train. No switch or information written on the hub mean they are of this type.Dump them.

tottot said:

The hub's may be of the so called automatic type which engage and disengage on their own.They are rubbish and can sometimes switch in and out very rapidly putting a lot off stress on the drive train. No switch or information written on the hub mean they are of this type.Dump them.

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That might explain things if they are this type, would agree to dump them. Replacement FWH's can be sourced on ebay.

Unless you are doing a lot of road miles, say 10,000 a year or more. You do not need free wheeling hubs. Which is Land Rover never offered them. Even at 10,000 miles a year or more, the potential mpg gains are pretty tiny, and there is no other real world benefit to running them.

As for the diff, pinion seal often leaks and is work changing, assuming you mean its coming out of the back of the diff. I guess what is more surprising is the diff actually has oil in it....

BTW, if you have free wheeling hubs and are running in 2wd, the front prop shouldn't be rotating.... if it's leaking it's probably due to the diff spinning. Have you used it in 4wd? Or maybe the hubs are of the free wheeling variety?

Diff pinion seal isn't a difficult job, might as well replace it.

check the drive flange where the seal fits onto it had to replace mine when I overhauled a spare diff.

Thanks for all the replies.
When I say it has free wheeling hubs, I mean that the front hubs don't appear to have the ability to lock. They just look like ordinary hubs from what I can see.
The diff wasn't leaking before I put the front prop back on ( removed by previous owner ), it looks as though it's leaking from behind the flange that the prop bolts on to.
I'll order a seal and just change it anyway, then I know it's done.
Thanks again

So back to my original comments. The whole front drive train turns when you drive. Until you engage 4 wheel drive it's not connected to the gearbox. It's a design flaw that means the front drive train is exposed to wear even though it's not in use. If you get a chance fit FWH's.

Not sure there is any wear worth mentioning. How many front drive trains have worn out from road use? And at worse case it'll be wearing at the same rate as the rear. Parts such as these break through abuse mostly, not wear. A Defender/Range Rover transmit drive through the front all the time by comparison. But you don't here of the front axle wearing on them either.

Free wheeling hubs are fine in principle. But are another point of leaking, which I think is common with all the offerings for the Series. They are also another point of failure too.

Plus if you do use 4wd it forces you to pull over and jump out of the vehicle to engage the hubs. Which is annoying and maybe inconvenient. And many times at trials I've seen people forget. So off they go in what they think is 4wd and promptly get stuck.

The only real world benefit I really know of is a tentative claim to improved cruising mpg. But the numbers I've seen on this are always pretty tiny. And I suspect most owners of Series vehicles simply don't do enough miles a year for it to matter.

I won't be fitting FWH's, as the post above states, they're an inconvenience that can be done without.
I'm still of the opinion that I may have accidentally made the prop too short after renewing the rubber gaiter, my original thought was to try and lengthen the prop while it's bolted in place ( by pulling the gaiter back, loosening the cap that holds the splined section in place and pulling the prop to the right length ). Of course I realise that this probably won't fix a worn out seal and might well be nothing other than a bodge, but, I can't help thinking that I've just pulled something out a little that needs to be pushed back in, lol.
The reality is though, that I'll probably just change the seal anyway, then I know it's done.
Thanks again for all the replies / suggestions and help

fwh's are quite useful for standing on to reach bits of the engine bay more easily

The prop's splines move in and out to adjust the length of the shaft at all times to compensate for movement in the suspension geometry. How tight the cap is has nothing to do with this action. Check output flange on diff has no side to side/up and down movement. Some free rotation is fine.

honolulujoe said:

fwh's are quite useful for standing on to reach bits of the engine bay more easily

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It's their best use.

tottot said:

The prop's splines move in and out to adjust the length of the shaft at all times to compensate for movement in the suspension geometry. How tight the cap is has nothing to do with this action. Check output flange on diff has no side to side/up and down movement. Some free rotation is fine.

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Great, thanks.
New to Land Rovers and didn't know that, I'll check the movement

honolulujoe said:

fwh's are quite useful for standing on to reach bits of the engine bay more easily

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Tyres and bumpers are useful for that as well, lol

--Rebel-- said:

Tyres and bumpers are useful for that as well, lol

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True,but how wide are your tyres?