Leaking diff pan

D

D

Guest

• Aug 3, 2005

• #1

My Range Rover 1994 is leaking quire badly from the diff pan. It does not
appear to be porous, as I understand this is the normal problem. It does not
leak when stationary, only when driving or newly stopped so I presume it is
a leak above the oil level. Is there an easy / quick fix for this? And how
much will this cost. Also, I understand that a weld on part may be
available. How much should I pay for this job to be done and is it a diy job
(could I do it myself?

Dave

 

J

JD

Guest

• Aug 3, 2005

• #2

D wrote:

> My Range Rover 1994 is leaking quire badly from the diff pan. It does not
> appear to be porous, as I understand this is the normal problem. It does
> not leak when stationary, only when driving or newly stopped so I presume
> it is a leak above the oil level. Is there an easy / quick fix for this?
> And how much will this cost. Also, I understand that a weld on part may be
> available. How much should I pay for this job to be done and is it a diy
> job (could I do it myself?
>
> Dave

If it has rust holes it probably is not a DIY job - a matter of removing the
diff (with all that entails) cutting off the pan and welding on a new one.
If it is only a crack (i.e. solid metal all sides of the hole) above the
oil level (probably on the weld), it is feasible to weld it in place.
Whether it is a DIY job depends on your welding skills.
An alternative would be to find a complete front axle assembly and change
it. Sorry, no idea of costs, but these will depend on what country you are
in anyway.
JD

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Aug 3, 2005

• #3

JD wrote:
>
> If it has rust holes it probably is not a DIY job - a matter of removing the
> diff (with all that entails) cutting off the pan and welding on a new one.
> If it is only a crack (i.e. solid metal all sides of the hole) above the
> oil level (probably on the weld), it is feasible to weld it in place.
> Whether it is a DIY job depends on your welding skills.
> An alternative would be to find a complete front axle assembly and change
> it.

Being a Rangie it should have a salisbury diff. As such the only piece
prone to rust is the rear cover which is a bolt on part. It should be
well within the capabilities of someone with a slight bit of mechanical
aptitude (and a socket set) to unbolt the cover, clean up the mating
surfaces and reassemble with a new gasket (and a new cover if the
present one is rusted through).


--
EMB

 

B

Badger

Guest

• Aug 3, 2005

• #4

"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> JD wrote:
>>
>> If it has rust holes it probably is not a DIY job - a matter of removing
>> the
>> diff (with all that entails) cutting off the pan and welding on a new
>> one.
>> If it is only a crack (i.e. solid metal all sides of the hole) above the
>> oil level (probably on the weld), it is feasible to weld it in place.
>> Whether it is a DIY job depends on your welding skills.
>> An alternative would be to find a complete front axle assembly and change
>> it.
>
> Being a Rangie it should have a salisbury diff. As such the only piece
> prone to rust is the rear cover which is a bolt on part. It should be
> well within the capabilities of someone with a slight bit of mechanical
> aptitude (and a socket set) to unbolt the cover, clean up the mating
> surfaces and reassemble with a new gasket (and a new cover if the present
> one is rusted through).

Now, that would be correct but for one minute detail, it was the 110 and 109
that had a salisbury diff, the rangies (classics) all had rover diffs and
welded axle casings with no bolt-on diff pans.
Badger.

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Aug 3, 2005

• #5

Badger wrote:

> Now, that would be correct but for one minute detail, it was the 110 and 109
> that had a salisbury diff, the rangies (classics) all had rover diffs and
> welded axle casings with no bolt-on diff pans.

Thanks Brian - serves me right for trying to answer questions about
Solihull's finest at the end of an all-night server rebuilding mission -
I'm that bloody tired that I'm not sure I should have driven home.


--
EMB

 

M

Marc Draper

Guest

• Aug 4, 2005

• #6

In message <[email protected]>, EMB <[email protected]> writes
>Being a Rangie it should have a salisbury diff. As such the only piece
>prone to rust is the rear cover which is a bolt on part. It should be
>well within the capabilities of someone with a slight bit of mechanical
>aptitude (and a socket set) to unbolt the cover, clean up the mating
>surfaces and reassemble with a new gasket (and a new cover if the
>present one is rusted through).
>
>


RRC were not fitted with the salisbury axle. !

Not for UK market anyway.
--
Marc Draper

www.mdeng.co.uk

 

J

JD

Guest

• Aug 4, 2005

• #7

Marc Draper wrote:

> In message <[email protected]>, EMB <[email protected]> writes
>>Being a Rangie it should have a salisbury diff. As such the only piece
>>prone to rust is the rear cover which is a bolt on part. It should be
>>well within the capabilities of someone with a slight bit of mechanical
>>aptitude (and a socket set) to unbolt the cover, clean up the mating
>>surfaces and reassemble with a new gasket (and a new cover if the
>>present one is rusted through).
>>
>>
>
>
> RRC were not fitted with the salisbury axle. !
>
> Not for UK market anyway.

Or anywhere else.
JD