L322 won't move anymore

Hi all I bought a 2004 range rover 3.0 l322 it was cheap because it had problems but I like to try and fix things and it just looks nice.
Anyway when I bought it there was the transferbox in neutral error and I gambled it being a fuse left in which it was so the error went away great I thought I'll nip it round the block see what it's like towards the end though I had the neutral message come up and I lost all drive but freewheeled it back.Now it goes into park/neutral/reverse/drive without any errors but there is no drive just a slight noise when its in drive or reverse.
I've plugged it into inpa and it shows no errors for the engine and gearbox so I went under and took a look at the transfer driveshaft (I think that's what it's called) anyway it rotates with the gearstick in drive neutral and reverse the only time it locks is when it's in park any ideas Please

Erm. Put the fuse back in, let it go back into neutral, then take it back out again, maybe the mechanism is a bit sticky? No real clue but it's worth a try

First ^^^ is worth a try.

You need to help us with your terminology, the shafts that come out of the transfer box front and back go to the axles/diffs. these are "propshafts" are you saying you can turn both of these?

It would help somebody who knows if you could post a pic. but the site is a little confused at the moment. but copy/paste or drag n drop seems to work for most of us.

J

If the front propshaft is rotating with the vehicle stationary then either the final drive/propshaft spline has failed (although the vehicle should have had the Q041 Service Action to prevent this)



or one of the driveshafts has popped out



Phil

If a few flicks of the high low switch wont engage a range it sounds like front propshaft splines have failed,
When mine did it made an awful noise it sounded like Edward sissorhands having a bit of 'diy time'

This is the visible difference between a vehicle that’s had the Q041 Service Action (which added a flexible joint at the final drive end to prevent spline misalignment) and the original design without the flexible joint



Phil

Bemble said:

This is the visible difference between a vehicle that’s had the Q041 Service Action (which added a flexible joint at the final drive end to prevent spline misalignment) and the original design without the flexible joint

Phil

Click to expand...

Happy Christmas Phil

First of all thank u lot for the speedy replies.
I've tried the fuse thing a couple of times still no joy.
It is the front propshaft that is turning unless it's in park and the rear prop seems OK.
I've flicked between high and low it says it goes hi and lo but still no drive.
I'll check the propshaft but I'm sure it looked like the newer one.Im gonna take it off and have a look see if the splines gone.
Thank u ill keep you all updated

It does sound a little rough when engaging drive and reverse and if I try to rev it says select neutral.

Charlyblack said:

First of all thank u lot for the speedy replies.
I've tried the fuse thing a couple of times still no joy.
It is the front propshaft that is turning unless it's in park and the rear prop seems OK.
I've flicked between high and low it says it goes hi and lo but still no drive.
I'll check the propshaft but I'm sure it looked like the newer one.Im gonna take it off and have a look see if the splines gone.
Thank u ill keep you all updated

Click to expand...

The new design is a “cv” type joint and is splined onto the actual prop shaft, they have been known to wear those splines so the prop will spin in the cv, not easy to see external damage, but the rubber gator will be split all round.

Charlyblack said:

It does sound a little rough when engaging drive and reverse and if I try to rev it says select neutral.

Click to expand...

this I don’t understand, can only think it’s not in high or low properly so is asking to have another go.

Think you may have more than 1 problem.

J

I've checked the propshaft it's one with the joint and the rubber around it is OK.ive also took off the transfer box motor and checked the pins for resistance like I've seen on a utube video and it's measuring a out 0.7and 0.6 without any power to it. Its supposed to be 4 I think so I'm assuming it's knackered even though it spins do you think that I'm right or does that seem normal I aren't too sure as it was only a YouTube video that u had to go off

If your front propshaft rotates in Drive and Reverse with the vehicle stationary (wheels not rotating) then your issue has nothing to do with your transfer box. As I said before, it’s either your front propshaft spline (which now seems unlikely, as you have the latest design) or one of your driveshafts has become disengaged. You therefore need to examine the driveshafts next.

Phil

A simple test in addition to bembles suggestion is to have someone inside the car, engine running, brakes on and have it put into gear. Look underneath with a torch for moving props.

Hi I just thought that as I had problems with the transfer box being stuck in neutral before it might be the reason why there's no drive I thought it might be stuck between high and low as I know it says it's in high and low on the dash it might not be actually in either and that might be the problem but I'll go underneath and check the driveshafts like suggested thank you

Hi just an update when its in drive the front propshaft moves quite quick but the rear doesn't and there is some grating noise aswell

Ok.
Does the flange to the diff turn or just the prop?

In previous pics of the upgrade do the bolts turn?

J

Charlyblack said:

Hi just an update when its in drive the front propshaft moves quite quick but the rear doesn't and there is some grating noise aswell

Click to expand...

Splines CV joint or diff.

We had this not long ago turned out to be one of the drive shafts not quite home in the diff end.

Thank you all Bemble and the others were right one of the driveshaft splines had come out and it goes now which is a relief now onto the suspension

Nice one the none expensive option