L322 L322 drivers seat ecu

Could Any body tell me where the drivers seat ecu is ? 2003 l322 td6.

After 5 yrs of ownership the electrics are throwing a hissy fit. After a drained battery I fitted a new battery... to find the radio no longer worked. Found water in the amp at the nsr . so while waiting for a new amp to come... the drivers seat has stopped working and there is a beeping noise behind the dash after first starting up. The seat clicks when the switch is moved . No blown fuses. I' wondering if there' a problem with the ecu but can' find it !! Any help from you guys in the know .... ☺☺

This says its behind switch panel on seat
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-a/charging_and_starting/description/ecu_locations/

I believe it is in the seat switch panel itself....as one unit - switches and ECU 'all-in-one'

What did you do to fix this?

Mckenzierfc said:

What did you do to fix this?

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It would seem reasonable to work on the premise that after finding the ECU they would replace it. Or perhaps they just lived with the issues , happy in the knowledge they now know where the ECU lives

Has anyone worked out what actually fails on these seat switch packs? To make the memory and steering column stop working.
The plugs connecting onto mine are all perfect looking. No damage/ all pins look good.
I will look to change it, but I can’t help thinking another used one will end up going the same way?
I have repaired bad soldering on lots of electronics before, so I am wondering if it’s the same on these? I guess I will open it up and have a look, but if anyone knows which component of the switch pack usually fails, it might save me some time?

I know this is waking an old thread but it's relevant - does anyone happen to know if the ECU for an SE seat is the same as a standard Vogue? I know the actual panel and trim are different, just wondering if the electronics are the same.

Naki kouyioumtzis said:

Has anyone worked out what actually fails on these seat switch packs? To make the memory and steering column stop working.
The plugs connecting onto mine are all perfect looking. No damage/ all pins look good.
I will look to change it, but I can’t help thinking another used one will end up going the same way?
I have repaired bad soldering on lots of electronics before, so I am wondering if it’s the same on these? I guess I will open it up and have a look, but if anyone knows which component of the switch pack usually fails, it might save me some time?

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In most cars, it's corrosion of the actual switch contacts that causes failure, certainly that's the case with the P38.

Datatek said:

In most cars, it's corrosion of the actual switch contacts that causes failure, certainly that's the case with the P38.

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Two years ago my mate