L320 2010

Found a better picture for u, just to double check what setting ur in, thks

Modes always set to default. Just normal driving

Normal driving

Steverob83 said:

Normal driving

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perfect and many thks , alas seen others that have simply selected the wrong one for normal driving , just wished to check the basics first

in normal ride height have u measured the wheels plse, from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch liners in mm’s , that will guide us on how ur RRS is sitting

can certainly talk u through several tests etc that can be done to check the suspension

do u also happen to have a multimeter plse as that will also come in very handy , need to get faults resolved first and then ur code reader should do a re calibration for that height sensor

I'll get all the measurements on tomorrow. Working today till 10pm uk time. And yes have a multi meter

Steverob83 said:

I'll get all the measurements on tomorrow. Working today till 10pm uk time. And yes have a multi meter

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That’s brilliant , thk u as indeed will allow us to gauge what height it’s sitting at

then we can work through the system as required

hope it helps

Thinking about stripping and cleaning the front valve block tomorrow. Iv seen alot people finding that they have stuck valves due to dust from the compressor drier dessicant. When I refurbished the compressor drier last week it was absolutely full of dust from the dessicant

Steverob83 said:

Thinking about stripping and cleaning the front valve block tomorrow. Iv seen alot people finding that they have stuck valves due to dust from the compressor drier dessicant. When I refurbished the compressor drier last week it was absolutely full of dust from the dessicant

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hate To say this but if that’s the case it may have gone round the entire system

in my case I had to replace all 3 x valve blocks , new compressor , , plus blowing out every single air line , also replaced my air tank as it had holes in it

when it gets into the valves blocks they let by , doesn’t effect the solenoids themselves just the seals , really hope it hasn’t as u can spend endless hours getting it all out

just hope the above is useful to u

I'll strip front block down and see what it's looking like tomorrow as that's the one that's causing the calibration to fail. Just watched a video on YT of a guy that stripped his and the cross link valve was stuck in the open position so hopefully mine has the same issue.

Steverob83 said:

I'll strip front block down and see what it's looking like tomorrow as that's the one that's causing the calibration to fail. Just watched a video on YT of a guy that stripped his and the cross link valve was stuck in the open position so hopefully mine has the same issue.

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worth a try that’s for sure to see if it has any dryer material inside or solenoid not working / stuck

can also talk u through a series of tests if that doesn’t work out, plse let us know how u get on

just Hope this is helping u

I'll try the valve block as first port of call. If it fails I'll be back here picking brains lol. Running out of time now as supposed to be taking the kids away in the caravan next Friday for Halloween but as it stands right now have nothing to tow with.

Front valve block was surprisingly clean. A small amount of residue but no stuck valves. Cleaned out and replaced on the car. Tried height calibration again but still same error message "failed to close front cross-link valve".

Measurements
FL 454
FR 468
RL 429
RR 447

Live data Figures
FL Corner Height -7
FR Corner Height 0
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32

FL Votage 2.93
FR Voltage 2.20
RL Voltage 2.50
RR Voltage 1.63

Was the right rear the new sensor?

J

Rear left was the new sensor

Steverob83 said:

Front valve block was surprisingly clean. A small amount of residue but no stuck valves. Cleaned out and replaced on the car. Tried height calibration again but still same error message "failed to close front cross-link valve".

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I guess the next step would be to trace the wiring and check connectors.

J

The difference between the 2 rear
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32
is concerning me. Surely this is way too far out just to be a calibration issue?

Steverob83 said:

The difference between the 2 rear
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32
is concerning me. Surely this is way too far out just to be a calibration issue?

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Yes would agree.
But until you can get to calibration mode you cant do much about it.

J

Steverob83 said:

The difference between the 2 rear
RL Corner Height 34
RR Corner Height -32
is concerning me. Surely this is way too far out just to be a calibration issue?

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I assume the arm is in the right orientation and not flipped the wrong way, its easy done.

Not sure if its me that's tired or what but i can't for the life of me work out how you can get these arms the wrong way.
Now for some reason have a permanent code shows adaptive dynamics fault on the dash U3000-54.