L-series handbrake issue

After coming close to scrapping/setting fire to the damn thing, the only thing standing between me and an mot is the handbrake. It's crap.
Cleaned out drums new cables, adjusted up (shoes first, then cables) - still crap.
The adjusters are the early type and not that old and are working fine.
New drums and shoes - still crap.
The balance bar behind the handbrake lever gets further and further away from square as the handbrake is applied.

I've now taken the whole bloody lot off, and one of the new cables inner is about 6mm longer than the other. Would that be enough to do it?
Both cables are longer than the ones that came off, but that in itself shouldn't be an issue.
Also, the cone- shaped fitting that pushes into the drum is twice as long. I had put that down to them being aftermarket jobs from rimmer, but now I'm wondering if they're the wrong bloody cables.

Opinions please? That don't involve petrol & matches??

My L Series failed its WOF (MOT) on a brake imbalance a couple of years ago.

When I had a look one of the cylinders was leaking a bit. I don't know if the poor braking was caused by the cylinder not operating properly or the leaked fluid affecting the shoe/drum friction.

What ever, I decided I'd replace everything attached to the hubs - so new cylinders, shoes, drums, spring, clips. I actually didn't consider the adjusters and didn't order them, so cleaned up the originals and used them. I also managed to disconnect the cylinders OK, so didn't replace the copper or flexible pipes leading to them.

The parts were really cheap. After fitted them all it took a lot of bleeding to flush all the air out of the system, but afterwards, the braking and hand braking were perfect.

I didn't replace any handbrake cables and didn't touch the adjuster on balance bar by the hand brake.

Dave _O said:

The balance bar behind the handbrake lever gets further and further away from square as the handbrake is applied.

I've now taken the whole bloody lot off, and one of the new cables inner is about 6mm longer than the other. Would that be enough to do it?

Click to expand...

The Hand Brake compensation link needs to remain parallel when the HB is applied. If one cable inner is 6mm longer than the other side, then the compensation link won't pull the cables equally.

Dave _O said:

Both cables are longer than the ones that came off, but that in itself shouldn't be an issue.

Click to expand...

The replacement cables should be identical to those that came out.

Dave _O said:

Cleaned out drums new cables, adjusted up (shoes first, then cables) - still crap.

Click to expand...

Did you clean and lube the shoe slip pads (raised sections on the back plate with dimples). If not smooth and lubricated, the shoes can't slip freely to contact the drum as needed.

Also the HB adjuster should be backed off fully, before the shoes are adjusted, then the HB adjuster is set to give the lever movement distance.

Driving it around, with lots of use of hand and footbrakes eventually got it up to mot standard