L-series engine and fuel pump

Desperately looking for help here from those in the know about FIPs and fuel injection. Readers of my other thread will know that my engine devoured its valves because the alternator drive belt failed and wedged behind the crank pulley.

I have now obtained a new engine. Yep that's right! a brand new crated stripped engine and am in the process of swapping all the bits over. The main problem I have is locking the correct position for the FIP on the damaged engine. It will not achieve TDC owing to valve interference. Presumably if I loosened the head bolts or cam retainers I will not have the precision required? Would it be possible to time the FIP from a point other than TDC?

If the FIP timing is lost how difficult is it to retime? Presumably a dealer or deisel Injection specialist could do it?

Any experts in the know I would be grateful to hear from you!
Happyhippo

The fuel pump on the l series is the Bosch VE IIRC, the timing for this is done by inserting a pin into the front so if you set the new engine to TDC and fit the fuel pump and then turn it till the pin fits in that should be timed correctly. I have worked with this fuel pump on the 300tdi but not on the l series.

I'm due someone will be along to either confirm or rubbish what I have said!

Thanks for the reply but finding TDC is the problem. The conventional method of timing the FIP is well known. What I need to know is how to do it when you can't achieve TDC owing to valve damage.

So couldn't you just lock the flywheel? Or if the flywheel is removed then quickly put it back on and mark it on the block. Failing that just get cylinder 1+4 pistons to sit at the top?

I don't think you need to set tdc on old engine before removing the pump.
When it is fitted on the new engine put the timing pi in the pump and ensure new engine is tdc and bobs your mothers brother!

Thanks for the response however I have doubts about this! There are dire warnings against losing FIP timing. If what you say is true, provided you set up the engine with all the locking pins and the FIP with its own lock pin you can't go wrong! The main point is that I think I will have to remove the FIP sprocket to fit pump to new engine. Is this held on a key way? If so will the relative position of the sprocket be the same engine to engine?

Trying to work this out whilst coping with the more mundane problems of removing the engine and transmission is not easy!

I was hoping for a few well chosen words from experts on the matter, on what you can and can't do when swapping FIP from one engine to another. I realise that it is not something that most owners will ever have to encounter but when you need help you need it!

Happyhippo

I understand what you are saying - I've seen the Rover Intro video for the L Series and read the Rave and they are quite particular about having to lock the pump - which I believe can only be done at TDC.

Do you have any idea whether the valves are stuck and wont move (so the cam won't rotate) or won't retract and are hitting the pistons (so the crank wont move)?

I stand by my previous post.

If you follow the instructions on RAVE to the letter you will have no problems. It tells you: fit the fuel pump drive belt gear camshaft ensuring drive pin is located in slot in gear.

Page 25 of the L series engine overhaul manual.

You dont time the fip up on the old engine as it will need to be retired to suit the new engine.

Yes there are warnings about loosing the timing but that is due to people thinking they know how todo a job and bumbling blindly through it using tipex to create their own timing marks.

Use a proper timing pin kit and follow the instructions and you will be fine... Don't over think it....... Read the manual and remember: lefty loosey - righty tighty....

Thanks for the responses I am now at the point where I need to lower engine and transmission to the ground. Have to pick up engine crane tomorrow as my standard gantry is too narrow when the car is way up in the air on lorry stands.

With the engine out and the gearbox off I will be in a better position to see how to do this, and get to the impossibly located flywheel locking pin hole. From what ZdomZ says I can't go wrong! You're right I have probably been over thinking this because I can't get used to the idea that the timing is set accurately by the engine ECU with reference to the needle lift sensor on No 1 injector. Provided of course you have got it timed as accurately as possible with the locking pins.

I will take some pictures and post progress if anybody is interested.

There's a knack to the timing pin. Pretty sure I put my arm over the top of the subframe and ird and felt around with a smaller sized drill bit. When drill bit went in the hole I then knew roughly where the hole was and got the correct sized drill bit and spanner on the crank pulley bolt and wiggled unill it went in. Easier with 2 people, one to see the hole and say up down etc and the other for the long reach

I tried the upwards approach, didn't work for me.

I used drill bits to lock the flywheel and fip